HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Jun 30, 2010, 08:39 AM
I'm FAMOUS
Joined Mar 2010
5,108 Posts
YES!
I'm "crazy"...because "insane" is a legal term.
killbucket is offline Find More Posts by killbucket
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jun 30, 2010, 08:51 AM
RC Heli noob
Blooner's Avatar
Rotterdam, The Netherlands
Joined Jun 2010
19 Posts
BKZer0, I salute your better knowledge of PSU's and USB ports.

I build (assembled) my own computer about 3 months ago from scratch, but the PSU was the only component that I had no previous knowledge of. I therefore used one of those voltage calculators to get a safe (good) enough PSU in the case.

So I'm sure that you are better qualified to answer this.

I however wasn't suggesting that placing 4 heli's would break the PSU/PC. What I meant is exactly what you said: It just won't charge the other 3.
Blooner is offline Find More Posts by Blooner
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 08:57 AM
I'm FAMOUS
Joined Mar 2010
5,108 Posts
I've been using a powered 7-port (Inland #MA3303), but usually do no more than 4 copters at a time.
It seems that the powered hub is faster than using the PC's ports directly.
killbucket is offline Find More Posts by killbucket
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 09:26 AM
North East England
Joined Feb 2004
3,181 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by killbucket View Post
I've been using a powered 7-port (Inland #MA3303), but usually do no more than 4 copters at a time.
Could the national power grid cope if you decided to charge them ALL at once, Kill? NASA would probably get the blame, I expect.

Anyway...flybars! I couldn't get a replacement for my broken S107 flybar so knocked up one of my own with a couple of bits of plastic tube and a few turns of solder wrapped around and CA'd securely. Quick and dirty.

Pretty self-explanatory really; I just wound what I thought 'looked right' (8 turns) and I think it's come out fractionally heavier than the stock flybar weights. I considered extending the flybar but kept it to the same size as stock.

How does it fly? As good as new! It's not a shelf queen anymore. Actually seems a slightly more solid hover due to the heavier flybar. I can always easily replace it with a stock item should it become available.
Redbaron25 is offline Find More Posts by Redbaron25
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 09:29 AM
I'm FAMOUS
Joined Mar 2010
5,108 Posts
Nicely done!

I picked up some knowledge from one of Barak's posts on another forum.
If your flybar's shorter, one of the effects is faster FF.

Did you keep the stock length, and did you check balance?

I'm thinking of experimenting.
killbucket is offline Find More Posts by killbucket
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 09:39 AM
North East England
Joined Feb 2004
3,181 Posts
Yes, kept to the stock length - the main purpose was the get the heli in flying condition again so I just went with what I knew would work.

I took great care to get both sides of the flybar equal length too, and the solder coils are perfectly identical too. Seems to have paid off as there's no TBE when it hovers. Speed seems to be about the same.
Redbaron25 is offline Find More Posts by Redbaron25
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 10:01 AM
Registered User
netherlands
Joined Jun 2010
7 Posts
experimenting is half the fun.
i modded the duo-led(red/green) in the nose into some sort of lipo-warning.
i measured the voltage when the lipo is full(3,7 volts),then flew a while till it lost hight
and then measured 3,4 volts (so not the minimum 0f 3,0 volt)
a good point for the led just to blink red,so the green off.
Normally at 3,4V, the duo-led just keeps blinking away,so i lowered the voltage to it with a transistor and a diode to make this happen.
now charged the led blinks as always(slightly less bright),and when it is time to stop,
only the red blinks(green does a very little bit,but you can hardly see it anymore)

connected: orange led wire---->plus side diode(1n4148)-neg diode(black marker)--->transistor(bc 547b left AND middle leg(base and collector)-trans.right leg(emitter)----->white led wire.

if you use 2 diodes in serial and the transistor,it is less bright and the red also shuts off.

normally i stop before it loses hight,but i had to try it out
tried it simple with some resistors,but that wasn't good enough.
taspo is offline Find More Posts by taspo
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 10:15 AM
North East England
Joined Feb 2004
3,181 Posts
Now that's CLEVER! (and welcome to the forum, Taspo )

I've just had a longer flight with my 'solder flybar' heli and it seems more solid in all respects than when it had the stock flybar. It feels more 'on rails' - I get the impression that I could chop the throttle totally and it would still hang there.

If you could devise some way to make the solder coils stay securely on the flybar but also have them removeable, you could experiment with differing number of turns. Might be interesting.
Redbaron25 is offline Find More Posts by Redbaron25
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 10:27 AM
Registered User
netherlands
Joined Jun 2010
7 Posts
nice to be here,learning a lot.

why dont you drill trough the plastic tube at the end and stick the solder trough that.then it cant slide off,you can ad or remove solder inwards
taspo is offline Find More Posts by taspo
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 10:42 AM
I'm FAMOUS
Joined Mar 2010
5,108 Posts
FLYBAR Weight matches stock at 2.2g.
Note how I cut the ends off, leaving part of the weight cavity to serve as an end stop. It's easy to adjust the weight quickly this way.
Solder is 60/40, .06 dia., and 1.17" long each.
I also used a drill bit to 'taper' the flybar pin holes, to decrease the bearing surface a bit. I basically drilled about half way through each side, so the flybar is pivoting on less area on the pins.
(The pin is held still by the head, and the flybar swings on it. The pin does not rotate.) A bit faster, and a very nice hover out of it!
killbucket is offline Find More Posts by killbucket
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 10:46 AM
RC Heli noob
Blooner's Avatar
Rotterdam, The Netherlands
Joined Jun 2010
19 Posts
So I just tried charging my S107 with the wall-socket to USB adapter.

It charges in about half the time... Which is great!

But I'm no electrician or anything, hopefully one of you know: Could this 'extremely' fast recharge be hurting the battery?

Electrifying greets,
Blooner
Blooner is offline Find More Posts by Blooner
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 10:56 AM
I'm FAMOUS
Joined Mar 2010
5,108 Posts
I don't think so...the USB charger should be limiting the action, regardless of what it has available to work with.

I think the PC just doesn't have the watts that the USB is capable of using...

If I charge from a USB port on my PC or a 'dumb' un-powered extension, it takes a lot longer.

So far, no cooked cells from doing this, even if forgotten for a while (don't do this)...

I've puffed TWO out of 60-odd Lipo's...both were with Tx chargers, and I suspect that I'd roached the cells by running them too dead. This was before I got diligent about 2 mins flight, then charge.

I think keeping a cell from ever getting dead in use, should be a much bigger worry than what's happening at charging. With as many toy machines as I have, I'd be a good example: Charging has not been an issue in any way. Literally every Lipo I've owned save for those two, is still just fine.
killbucket is offline Find More Posts by killbucket
Last edited by killbucket; Jun 30, 2010 at 11:04 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 12:53 PM
Chasing dreams not d competion
uk
Joined Feb 2009
575 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blooner View Post
So I just tried charging my S107 with the wall-socket to USB adapter.

It charges in about half the time... Which is great!

But I'm no electrician or anything, hopefully one of you know: Could this 'extremely' fast recharge be hurting the battery?

Electrifying greets,
Blooner
Half the time to the transmitter charge?

If the transmitter charge took 10 hours and your usb took 5 then no its no problem, if your transmitter took 10 minutes to charge and your usb took 5 minutes to charge then yes its a big problem.

We need more info to answer your question properly but as KB suggested its probably normal, i charged on the transmitter the first two times, first time took 5 minutes as they obviously come pre-charged or it had been tested before sending but the second time took nearly an hour, my iphone charger does it in around 40-45 minutes which doesnt get the battery warm at all.

After your charge feel the battery, if its warm (tepid is ok, i mean warm) then its a littel quick if its hot your in trouble.......

Remember folks charge then leave to sit for 5 mins, fly then leave to sit for 10 mins before charging.
BrownOut is offline Find More Posts by BrownOut
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 01:23 PM
I'm FAMOUS
Joined Mar 2010
5,108 Posts
Who woulda thought battery care would flip?

If you had Nickel-Cadmium packs, the ultimate no-no was to recharge a partially used pack. To do so would abuse the cells, and in short order, you'd have...knackered cells.

So I just remember to abuse the heck outta Lipo's: there is no problem with keeping them fully charged, and bumping them after the shortest of flight times.
killbucket is offline Find More Posts by killbucket
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 01:39 PM
Registered User
SF Bay Area
Joined Jun 2010
54 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blooner View Post
So I just tried charging my S107 with the wall-socket to USB adapter.

It charges in about half the time... Which is great!

But I'm no electrician or anything, hopefully one of you know: Could this 'extremely' fast recharge be hurting the battery?

Electrifying greets,
Blooner
The math on this is very easy: By definition a one hour charge time is charging (assuming constant current which is not always true) a LiPo at 1C which is ideal. Since you never run down a LiPo completely and 20% capacity should always be left, 48 min for a full charge is about right. If you run your LiPo only down to 50% capacity, 1C charge time would be 30 min.

So if you run down your LiPo to the point where the cutoff kicks in (not recommended on a regular basis) and your charge time is still less than 30 min, I'd be worried. It all depends how far you run down your LiPo and how long "half the time" is in your case.

Different USB implementations put out different amounts of current, but they all seem to max out at 500 mA or less. Even charging at the full 500 mA certainly wouldn't help the longevity, but wouldn't be enough to "cook" the LiPo cell.

I haven't taken a S107 USB charger apart yet, but I believe they aren't very sophisticated and only cut off the charging current based on voltage. Assuming this is true and the internal resistance of a LiPo is fairly constant (that assumption seems fair from what I've read about LiPos; variation seems to come with temperature changes mainly), you'd be charging initially with a much higher current as the voltage differential between USB (5V) and a drained LiPo (3.2V) is 1.8V. If the LiPo is close to fully charged (4.2V), the voltage differential is only about 0.8V cutting the charging current to less than half of what it started charging at.
bruchlandung is offline Find More Posts by bruchlandung
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
For Sale 3-channel Micro IR S107 Metal HoneyBee Helicopter No.ES0107 (with Gyro) mictopwin Aircraft - Electric - Batteries & Chargers (FS/W) 8 May 09, 2011 01:47 PM
Discussion V-max .vs. Falcon-X .vs. Syma 3 S107? 7immy Mini Helis 12 Apr 07, 2011 04:11 PM
Discussion Mosquito 3CH Radio Control Helicopter Version 2 by Syma Wayno-san Micro Ready-to-Fly 39 Dec 26, 2010 02:36 PM