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Old Feb 05, 2010, 05:13 AM
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Denmark
Joined Dec 2004
559 Posts
Hi Quicksilver

Lets see a picture of your router!

I originally had planned to buy a Kress 1050, but many people have reported that they are quite noisy like many systems with brushed motors. And with a couple of spare collets the price will be $280 + shipping which is a bit too much for me.

Im in the process of collecting stuff for a DIY spindle.

Ill be using three high quality Abec 7 skate bearings: http://www.skatepro.dk/da/22_29_27-1617.htm

An ER11 collet chuck: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

ER11 collet set: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Motor with integrated cooling fan: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=7243

A 40A ESC, a 5/8mm coupling and a servo tester.

Should be doable... or Ill have fun trying to get it to work

I have been heavily inspired by this design: http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showth...e-design/page2

- Michael Hammer
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Last edited by michaelghammer; Apr 23, 2010 at 02:31 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2010, 05:31 PM
Got my head in the clouds
Joined Mar 2008
58 Posts
This is quite the build, Michael! I am interested in building one some day....when I can find the time/money/materials to do so. Thanks for documenting your build process. Very interesting indeed!
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Old Feb 11, 2010, 07:07 AM
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Denmark
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559 Posts
Thanks Ace of Spades.

I took a decision not to build any models this winter. Instead I devoted my time and money to building my CNC Router. And Im glad I did. This machine is a dream come true and Im sure it will still be working in 20 years time. I just hope Ill be working too in 20 years time...

My CNC Router is a sub $1000 machine, but you could build it even cheaper if you could find stepper motors from old label printers etc.

I dont regret spending $500 on supported rails, bearings and ballscrews. Buying a package like that just makes everything much easier and works like a charm.

Instead I saved money on the frame which was made from a step ladder from Home Depot. Once filled with concrete the whole base was far more stable and solid than any 8020 aluminium frame.

- Michael Hammer
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Last edited by michaelghammer; Feb 11, 2010 at 07:36 AM.
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Old Feb 11, 2010, 07:29 AM
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Denmark
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As promised in post #1, Ive made a plan of my DIY CNC Router in dxf format and a plan with all the plywood parts laid out.

Feel free to build your own version or be inspired to design a new CNC Router.

Heres my shopping list:

3 AXIS CNC ROUTER DRIVER BOARD
http://shop.ebay.com/autohec/m.html


Steppermotor Nema 23 M57STH76-2008S
http://www.motioncontrolproducts.com

Dremel SK-25 Mounting Block
http://www.motioncontrolproducts.com


3 ballscrews + 3 sets SBR rails +3sets BK/BF12+couplers
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...fvi%3D1&_rdc=1
Remember to order the ballscrews 30mm shorter than the above.


Bolts, nuts etc.
http://www.modelfixings.co.uk


Wire mesh
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...0mm_%281mtr%29

Happy building

- Michael Hammer
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Last edited by michaelghammer; Feb 12, 2010 at 05:31 AM.
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Old Feb 11, 2010, 08:21 AM
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UK
Joined Sep 2002
1,374 Posts
Michael,

Sorry for my lame late reply!

My machine can be found here:

http://fpv-community.com/forum/showt...light=workshop

Top of the thread 'Cosha' that is me, let me know what you think!

Yes i forgot about the Lame 8mm collet, i buy my routers bits from Trend, they do 8mm shaft single double and lots now
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 04:24 AM
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Denmark
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Very nice Router, Quicksilver
And Im very impressed by your sound/dust proofing box.

I bet you make some nice scratch built aeroplane models too

- Michael Hammer
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Old Feb 12, 2010, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelghammer View Post
Very nice Router, Quicksilver
And Im very impressed by your sound/dust proofing box.

I bet you make some nice scratch built aeroplane models too

- Michael Hammer
You MUST have a sound proof box of some sort! I Can run my machine all day, and all night, its realllly quiet with the door closed!

Thanks, i really enjoyed making it, alot of fun!

I think mines a 950FME kress router, has a nice speed range too!
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Old Feb 15, 2010, 03:19 AM
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Chandler, AZ
Joined Mar 2006
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Quote:
3 ballscrews + 3 sets SBR rails +3sets BK/BF12+couplers
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...fvi%3D1&_rdc=1
Remember to order the ballscrews 30mm shorter than the above.
michael, can you explain what you mean by order the ballscrews 30mm shorter than the above? do you mean shorter than in the linked auction - like a custom order?

Have been working up to building a CNC for some time, and my budget is 1k - yours looks like a winner!
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Old Feb 19, 2010, 03:43 AM
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Denmark
Joined Dec 2004
559 Posts
Hi drfish,

Sorry about the late respons. Had a little winter vacation in Berlin - nice but very cold

If you want to build a machine similar to mine and want to buy the parts from Linearmotionbearings2008 (Chai) just contact him directly through Ebay and have him alter the order to: 3pcs Anti backlsh ballscrews RM1605-320/520/820mm-C7(3screws+3ballnuts+3end machinings)

This way the ballscrews will fit the design. My ballscrews were to long and I had to modify my machine to adopt it to the longer ballscrews.

Dont hessitate to contact Chai, hes very service minded and keen to help.

If you go ahead and start a build of my design please feel free to post your progress in this thread.

- Michael Hammer
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Old Apr 22, 2010, 02:49 AM
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Denmark
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559 Posts
Ive been working on my brushless DIY spindle.

I had originally planned an ER11 collet chuck with a 8mm shaft driven by this motor. The 8mm shaft of the collet chuck and the 5mm motor shaft were to be coupled with some sort of coupling. I bought the motor and even though the quality of the motor looked very good I did have second thoughts about the coupling.

So I decided to ditch the coupling approach and eliminate the coupling all together. Instead I purchased this motor This motor has a 8mm shaft the same as the collet chuck shaft. My idea was to replace the motor shaft with the collet chuck shaft and make a bearing block for the motor to be mounted to.

I wanted to be able to use the 25mm Dremel mount so the lower part of the bearing block had to be 25mm in diameter and the upper part where the stator part of the motor is bolted to had to be 70mm in diameter. Being a model plane modeler I didnt have a piece of 70mm aluminium rod lying around. But I had plenty of scrap aluminium...

So I decided to cast the bearing block using the lost foam method and a simple charcoal furnace. An oversized foam plug was coated with plaster and burrowed in dry sand with just the inlet showing. A charcoal starter filled with Heatbeads and a vacuum cleaner blowing air into the bottom of it acted as a furnace. An old stainless steel pot was used as a crusible.

You really need a lot of heat from the charcoals, and I had to add more coal than shown in the photo. But in the end I managed to get the aluminium scrap melted. The pour into the foam plug wasnt very good. A lot of the melted aluminium didnt hit the right spot because the flames from the burning foam obstructed the view. At first I thought my first attempt was a complete failure, but when I unburrowed the part it turned out to be quite usable. I was very surprised about the way every little detail of the foam plug had been transfered to the aluminium part. I really look forward to casting some scale landing gear parts in the future...

- Michael Hammer, Hammer Models
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Old Apr 22, 2010, 04:18 AM
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Its been a long time since I worked with a lathe, but I did manage to machine the lump of casted aluminium into a bearing block. Two ABEC 7 skate bearings are press fitted into the lower part and one bearing in a loose fit at the top. The Turnigy motor without the bell was then slid onto the collet chuck shaft and bolted to the bearing block flange. Finally the bell was pressed onto the shaft right up against the rear bearing of the Turnigy motor.

The collet chuck spins very precisely and there is zero slip. You can not wiggle the tool at all unlike the Dremel which was very loose. The sound level of the new spindle is way lower than the Dremel and a lot more pleasant. So far Ive only tested the spindle with a 3S battery, but Im going to test it with different powersupplies and different voltage settings. But right now Im very pleased with the way the spindle turned out.

- Michael Hammer
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Last edited by michaelghammer; Apr 22, 2010 at 07:52 AM.
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Old Apr 22, 2010, 08:44 AM
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Ward Hagaman's Avatar
San Diego
Joined Mar 2003
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That's really nice! Where did you get the collet chuck?
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Old Apr 22, 2010, 12:13 PM
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Denmark
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Thanks Ward

I bought the ER11 collet chuck and an ER11 collet set from this ebay Store
The quality of the chuck and the collets seem to be very good and the price is quite reasonable.

- Michael Hammer
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Last edited by michaelghammer; Apr 22, 2010 at 02:48 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2010, 12:46 PM
The "pro" in procrastination
Steve85's Avatar
Canada, ON, Kingston
Joined Mar 2004
2,605 Posts
Michael,

Okay, casting your own aluminum bearing block and milling it to shape takes this hobby to whole different level!

I'm in awe.

Steve
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Old Apr 22, 2010, 02:16 PM
Slipping the Surly Bonds
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Attica, MI
Joined Dec 2006
10,223 Posts
Michael,

Nice work! I have thought about switching my machine over to a brushless spindle also. What software are you running with, and how do you anticipate controlling the spindle? Very interested in this.

Ken
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