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Old Oct 14, 2011, 03:25 AM
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michaelghammer's Avatar
Denmark
Joined Dec 2004
559 Posts
Ciao Claudio
Sembra buono...

And your CNC Router looks very sturdy with cast aluminium gantry sides.


Thanks Ward. I´m glad you like it.

- Michael Hammer
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Old Oct 15, 2011, 04:49 AM
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Italia, Lazio, Roma
Joined Oct 2011
3 Posts
Aggiungo altre 2 foto della mia cnc le misure utili del piano di lavoro sono: asse X 700 mm. - asse Y 600 mm. - asse Z 97,50 mm.
Il motore Turnigy viene alimentato con 2 batterie da motocicletta a 12 V. 10 Ah. in serie = 24 V. 10 Ah oppure con trasformatore 35 V. 7 Ah. Come si può vedere ho montato un'elica propulsiva per contenere il calore del motore che si attesta a circa 45 g° celsius. Allego piccolo video
MVI_0068.AVI (1 min 4 sec)
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Old Oct 15, 2011, 05:47 AM
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Italia, Lazio, Roma
Joined Oct 2011
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Volevo fare presente che prima di montare il motore Turnigy ho dovuto provvedere al bilanciamento della campana (rotore) togliendo del collante tra i magneti dov'era più pesante ed aggiungendo delle palline di acciaio dov'era più leggero avendo cura di incollare tutto con collante bicomponente e poi lisciare tutto con della carta smeriglio, perchè aveva delle vibrazioni paurose che avrebbero rotto i cuscinetti del motore, allego alcune foto.
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Old Oct 20, 2011, 08:46 PM
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Gwelan's Avatar
Sakinee, Canada
Joined Sep 2004
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Preliminary drawings of my CNC project

Hi guys!
I love this thread. It is filled with precious information and amazing CNC ideas.

Last winter I had a lot of time to think about what could be build with some old vertical blind posts I picked in a container and Rollerblade bearings.
I had to figure out how to limit the torque imposed to the spindle support build with flimsy aluminium parts. I may be wrong but I think this could be achieved with double tracks disposed symetrically arround the spindle axis and placed as close as possible to the work surface to limit the torsion effect.

Here is a rendering of that CNC.
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Old Oct 20, 2011, 11:13 PM
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Denver, CO
Joined Dec 2005
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I would stay away from thin channels. Most try to have the bearings run on hard surfaces like steel. Aluminum will wear faster, and can get chips ground into it. Try to keep the bearing surfaced covered, or under the table.
Many people find it hard to get a router table stiff enough for cutting much more than soft things like foam, when they go light.
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 03:30 PM
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Sakinee, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roto Rob View Post
I would stay away from thin channels. Most try to have the bearings run on hard surfaces like steel. Aluminum will wear faster, and can get chips ground into it. Try to keep the bearing surfaced covered, or under the table.
Many people find it hard to get a router table stiff enough for cutting much more than soft things like foam, when they go light.
That's precisely the kind of advices I was looking for. Bearings will be mounted using the steel bridles method instead of sliding on thin alu channels.

Thank you, rob.
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Old Oct 24, 2011, 07:31 PM
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Yhdysvallat, CA, Irvine
Joined Nov 2007
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Have a problem with this desing. The orginal axel seems to be stuck. Any ideas how the get it away from the structure? I loosen the screw already
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 02:38 AM
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Denver, CO
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Remove the setscrew, and push the shaft out. Some heat can help.
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 09:45 AM
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Yhdysvallat, CA, Irvine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roto Rob View Post
Remove the setscrew, and push the shaft out. Some heat can help.
I have already removed the screw. And tryed to hit the shaft with a hammer but it wont come out. I will try heat next time. Does cold work as well or does it need to be spot heat or cold?
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 10:32 AM
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United States, FL, Sebastian
Joined May 2005
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You should not use a hammer. It needs to be pressed out. If you have a vice or a drill press you can use a shaft a little smaller to press the motor shaft out.
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Old Oct 29, 2011, 11:22 AM
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Oslo, Norway
Joined Oct 2005
58 Posts
Thanks for the idea guys! I just bought an 1968KV watercooled brushless motor for my PCB router (attachment for my Sieg SX3 CNC) with an 8mm shaft. I have also bought an ER11 tool holder(8mm shank), 60A ESC and a water pump. Will let you guys know how it turns out. Cheers!

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Old Oct 30, 2011, 02:59 AM
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thanhTran's Avatar
Germantown, MD, US
Joined Sep 2004
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I have a MaxNC 15 CNC milling machine. So I replaced the stock motor with a brushless motor and wow, what a difference did it make. The brushless motor is a lot quieter. I experiment with this machine a lot in the middle of the night so the low noise is really important to me. Plus I don't have to wear an earplug .

Thanks Michael very much for the idea

-Thanh
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Old Nov 10, 2011, 09:56 PM
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Yhdysvallat, CA, Irvine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p3jpaavi View Post
I have already removed the screw. And tryed to hit the shaft with a hammer but it wont come out. I will try heat next time. Does cold work as well or does it need to be spot heat or cold?
I looked the shaft closer and it seems to be clued all over. Do you guys know motor that is not clued like that. With that amount of glue the only way to take the shaft away is to drill is away. ...
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Old Nov 12, 2011, 07:15 AM
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3rd stone from the sun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p3jpaavi View Post
I looked the shaft closer and it seems to be clued all over. Do you guys know motor that is not clued like that. With that amount of glue the only way to take the shaft away is to drill is away. ...
You did try and heat the joint to about 100C? Most glues and threadlocks start to break apart at those kind of temperatures. Put it in a sift and place it over a pot of boiling water for 10-20 mins.....

100C is acceptable, going higher will make the can magnet loose power.

Alternatively, I would immerse the can in acetone and let it sit for some hours and then try and press (or hammer) out the axle.
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Old Feb 16, 2012, 06:33 PM
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QLD, Australia.
Joined Aug 2002
47 Posts
It looks like the Turnigy 50-xx line has been discontinued at HK.
Does anyone know of a similarly priced alternative?
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