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Old Jan 14, 2010, 11:59 PM
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Pittsburgh, PA
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Build Log
Gentle Lady build(a reunion with an old friend)

Like many others I learned to fly on the GL. I got the kit for my 14th Birthday and enjoyed it for 3 years before the balsa elevator rod gave which ended it's run. Almost 14 years later I'm staring at another GL kit and am just as excited Luckily for this kit I've learned a few things since the last so it will be built smarter, and won't end up with close to a roll of repair patches within a month
My goal is to keep it fairly light but add a few necessary mods here and there and also I'm thinking this one will be electrified but I'm still not sure. I will start building Saturday after I get home from maidening my Spirit after its recent refit. Any input is always appreciated, no matter how many planes have been built we can always learn something
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Old Jan 15, 2010, 02:55 PM
fa2
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Joined Jan 2010
498 Posts
spar system is not that efficient - design is not optimized to react bending stress - go with top and bottom spars and shear webs - and get rid of those rubber bands - keep it light - it's a flat bottom - mine (gl) has lasted for about 10 years - the wings really deflect on launch - i've always liked the polyhedral angles on the wing - very responsive.

the plans start you out at about 37% mac (i've experimented with the cg and always ended up putting it back per the plans).

mine also has approx .020" thick turbulator strips on the le of the tip panels (that's about 3 layers of striping tape - auto parts store). since i don't own a wind tunnel, who can say if it helped, but i can certainly slow it down in a turn without stalling a tip - i did not put any washout in mine - it seems to not need it.

fa2
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Old Jan 15, 2010, 09:27 PM
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USA, MO, Ozark
Joined Nov 2006
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Hard to beat the GL for easy to Mod. A couple of tricks are:
Do change to top and bottom spars with a little CF on the inner pannels top and bottom. use the basswood that comes with it for the top spar and add some balsa for the bottom( top spar gets more compression).
Extend the nose an inch or so and hollow out well for the battery. You can lite glass the nose too as it will need a bit o wieght anyhow.
place the servos and rx in front of the wing.
Go to pull pull rudder control. Use as little wire as possible in the aft end of the elevator push rod.
anything at all to reduce tail weight pays off, as does keeping wing tips lite.
GOOD LUCK
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Old Jan 15, 2010, 09:32 PM
Larry Jasmann
Severna Park MD
Joined Jul 2008
462 Posts
I built my GL about a year ago and it has been a joy to fly ever since. I built mine fairly stock... I did put CF strips on the top spar for the inner panels about 1/2 out the panel. Otherwise built it completely stock.

I launch mine on a winch, and have had no problems at all. It is a very light flier, and will rise easily on light thermals.

I like the rubber bands.. saves wear and tear if the landing ends ub hitting one side of the wing. Just replace the rubber bands every time you fly.. don't try to reuse them.

Mine took a bit of weight in the nose, so build the tail as light as you can.. but still keeping it strong.

You will enjoy it!

L. Jasmann
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Old Jan 16, 2010, 11:15 PM
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Pittsburgh, PA
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What do you guys think about sheeting from the LE to the front spar to make the airfoil more uniform? 1/16" balsa shouldn't add too much weight.
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 07:34 AM
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Pittsburgh, PA
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I made a decent dent in the fuse construction yesterday. The horiz. stab is finished to boot so I'm very happy. I forgot how quickly this kit goes together
Oh and don't worry about the prop in the pic, it will be replaced by a folding one when I get to the LHS
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 12:39 AM
Be an organ donor
Little Rock, AR. U.S.A via U.K
Joined May 2004
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I did sheet the upper LE all the way out to the poly joint. Worked very well. I also used dowel rods going across the fuse (through the side panels) for the rubber bands. Just my preference over the centre dowels.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 05:42 AM
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USA, MO, Ozark
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You could sheet the top as far back as an inch behind the spar ala Alegro Lite. This is to decrease the sag between ribs. Here is a pic of my GL in the bones.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 08:51 AM
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Pittsburgh, PA
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Quote:
I also used dowel rods going across the fuse (through the side panels) for the rubber bands
I did the same thing on this one. I had some spare 1/8 ply that I epoxied in the fuse to keep the dowels secure and it doubles the wing saddle. The vert. stab and rudder are drying now and all that's left to do on the fuse is sanding.
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 11:34 PM
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Fuse done

Well the fuse is complete and covered. The tail is also done and covered I will epoxy them together tomorrow then run control rods. At this rate it will be ready for a weekend maiden
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 05:37 PM
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Of course now you HAVE to send pics of the maiden
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 03:02 PM
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Well a few days ago I saw on the weather channel that it was going to be a bad weekend to maiden. Therefore I have been kinda slacking on this build I'm working on the wings now though and put up a few pics of the completed fuse. I'm going to install the servos once I'm done with the wings to get the CG right.
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 07:32 PM
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Wilson NC 27896
Joined Apr 2009
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Just stumbled on this thread! I just finished my GL & was looking for info about it before i started covering. I put a power pod mount on the wing center on mine. I am planning on useing a .049 golden bee to get her aloft. I fly vintage models and wanted something my grandson & wife could fly, since they attend the events with me. Im flying mine with a Kraft 3 channel radio i got narrowbanded. I'll check back here to follow your progress on your build. I didnt do anything to mine different from the plans & even built in the washout. Never had a model with washout before so i dont know what to expect. Im hopeing for a relaxing plane to fly, we'll see......Gene
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 07:47 PM
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Pittsburgh, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gene6029 View Post
Just stumbled on this thread! I just finished my GL & was looking for info about it before i started covering. I put a power pod mount on the wing center on mine. I am planning on useing a .049 golden bee to get her aloft. I fly vintage models and wanted something my grandson & wife could fly, since they attend the events with me. Im flying mine with a Kraft 3 channel radio i got narrowbanded. I'll check back here to follow your progress on your build. I didnt do anything to mine different from the plans & even built in the washout. Never had a model with washout before so i dont know what to expect. Im hopeing for a relaxing plane to fly, we'll see......Gene
My first one had the 049 on a pod and it got the GL up at a nice relaxing climb. With the 1/4" washout called for it will be just fine. Do you got any pics of yours?
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Old Jan 23, 2010, 08:21 PM
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GL's look lovely with a v-tail, btw. Built one like that, using a sliding-tray mixer, and made a second wing with ailerons. (Don't know if they still do, but Goldberg used to have just the wing parts available to buy by themselves).

I flew mine with an o49 power pod, but it was very messy and greasy, it never sat quite the same way on each flight so you had to re-trim constantly, and the prop noise bothered me. I went to the GL's fat sister, the Electra, and had marvelous times with that thing for YEARS, the 3-piece wing survives in my shop still, almost 20 years later!
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