HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Aug 12, 2010, 04:19 PM
Registered User
Milton Keynes, UK
Joined Oct 2005
1,179 Posts
I flew a couple of rounds in a competition last saturday in very calm conditions where the lift was so light, but with care could keep you up for a max. (Flying my own design model)

the only other model able to keep up was Nick Chittys twister and it seemed to handle the conditions very well, certainly as good as any other model out there. I'd stick with trimming it for calm conditions, it will work.
Richard S is online now Find More Posts by Richard S
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Aug 12, 2010, 04:58 PM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2007
19 Posts
Maurice,

Flew my TW2 in the calm conditions in Denmark at 265 gram. An even lower weight may give a disadvantage in launch height, in my opinion.

It seems to me that the big improvement from TW1 to TW2 is the increase in performance in calm air and light thermals. Also the bumpy thermals very close to the ground seems to be better picked up with the TW2 in respect to TW1.

How much flap do you set in cruise and thermal?

Peter
Peter Aanen is offline Find More Posts by Peter Aanen
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 12, 2010, 05:10 PM
Maurice
mpodder's Avatar
Bakersfield, Cal.
Joined Jul 2004
1,099 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Aanen View Post
Maurice,

How much flap do you set in cruise and thermal?

Peter
2mm in cruse and 3mm in thermal for a total of 5mm. The 3mm of thermal flap is on a poportional slider.
Maurice
mpodder is online now Find More Posts by mpodder
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 12, 2010, 05:34 PM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2007
19 Posts
Maybe try a little less deflection in thermal. I don't use thermal mode anymore, and fly only with 1,5 mm flap in cruise and thermal. This in combination with about 7mm snap flap with full elevator pull.

Peter
Peter Aanen is offline Find More Posts by Peter Aanen
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 12, 2010, 06:35 PM
Master of the Wind
G Norsworthy's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Sep 2008
1,178 Posts
Peter,

Did you like the Twister 1 better with snap flap or with fixed positions cruise and thermal? Do you move the flaps up also or only down with up elevator?

I should try it.

Have you flown man on man against the Stobel?

Greg
Anxiously awaiting my Twister2 to try all of this out.
G Norsworthy is offline Find More Posts by G Norsworthy
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 12, 2010, 06:43 PM
Maurice
mpodder's Avatar
Bakersfield, Cal.
Joined Jul 2004
1,099 Posts
Thanks Peter! I'll try it.
mpodder is online now Find More Posts by mpodder
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 12, 2010, 11:08 PM
Registered User
New Zealand
Joined Jun 2008
77 Posts
Cg

What is everyone using for a CG on the T2?
I have just got mine going, and started 'dialling it in' in some fairly calm conditions. I intially had it balanced at 76mm, but did not like it. I prefer more of a forward CG. I then tried 74mm and it was alot more to my style. I then moved it to 73mm, and it seemed to fly as if on 'rails'. My concern is that Alex recomends a CG at 76mm +-2mm. So im just outside that range.
Am I missing any performance leaving the model at 73mm?

Also how much are guys ballasting the model? I have only allowed for 2 ounces of ballast. Is this enough in general? (My model come out a bit heavy at 280grams, due to some over building by me. I wanted a model that was reliable, and not too fragile so I beefed up some areas slightly)
rc_soarer is offline Find More Posts by rc_soarer
Last edited by rc_soarer; Aug 13, 2010 at 12:01 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 13, 2010, 01:50 AM
Alex Hoekstra's Avatar
Hurdegaryp Netherlands
Joined Feb 2007
393 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_soarer View Post
What is everyone using for a CG on the T2?
I have just got mine going, and started 'dialling it in' in some fairly calm conditions. I intially had it balanced at 76mm, but did not like it. I prefer more of a forward CG. I then tried 74mm and it was alot more to my style. I then moved it to 73mm, and it seemed to fly as if on 'rails'. My concern is that Alex recomends a CG at 76mm +-2mm. So im just outside that range.
Am I missing any performance leaving the model at 73mm?

Also how much are guys ballasting the model? I have only allowed for 2 ounces of ballast. Is this enough in general? (My model come out a bit heavy at 280grams, due to some over building by me. I wanted a model that was reliable, and not too fragile so I beefed up some areas slightly)
Actually i fly the CG also at 73/74 mm . Its also changed in the manual. The original CG came out by flying in wintertime with less turbulance and less strong thermals. I also put in some more flap at light conditions. In really calm air i might go to 7 mm. With that i still use a lot of snapflap about 10 mm.
Alex Hoekstra is offline Find More Posts by Alex Hoekstra
Last edited by Alex Hoekstra; Aug 13, 2010 at 07:55 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 13, 2010, 06:00 AM
Jens Hoffmann
jensdk's Avatar
Denmark, Region Zealand, Herlufmagle
Joined Jul 2006
409 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_soarer View Post
What is everyone using for a CG on the T2?
I have just got mine going, and started 'dialling it in' in some fairly calm conditions. I intially had it balanced at 76mm, but did not like it. I prefer more of a forward CG. I then tried 74mm and it was alot more to my style. I then moved it to 73mm, and it seemed to fly as if on 'rails'. My concern is that Alex recomends a CG at 76mm +-2mm. So im just outside that range.
Am I missing any performance leaving the model at 73mm?

Also how much are guys ballasting the model? I have only allowed for 2 ounces of ballast. Is this enough in general? (My model come out a bit heavy at 280grams, due to some over building by me. I wanted a model that was reliable, and not too fragile so I beefed up some areas slightly)
It seems to be a very personal and modellike answers about the CG, but always a place to start, only way to find out is fly that damned thing
instead of spending your time at the forum
you already answered the question by moving CG.
jensdk is offline Find More Posts by jensdk
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 13, 2010, 08:53 AM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2007
19 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by G Norsworthy View Post
Peter,

Did you like the Twister 1 better with snap flap or with fixed positions cruise and thermal? Do you move the flaps up also or only down with up elevator?

I should try it.

Have you flown man on man against the Stobel?

Greg
Anxiously awaiting my Twister2 to try all of this out.
Greg,

On the TW1 I always used both thermal flapsetting (about 2mm more than cruise) and snap-flap, only in flapdown direction.

The CG is best to be determined in flight and is personal, as Jens already mentioned. I fly the TW2 between 77 mm and 74 mm.

Peter
Peter Aanen is offline Find More Posts by Peter Aanen
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 13, 2010, 09:04 AM
atlav8r's Avatar
Cumming Ga
Joined Apr 2002
2,916 Posts
Good conversation here!
I fly mine at 9.4 oz before ballast with the CG at 74 and have been very happy there. I started farther back at 76 all the way to 79 but have slowly moved it forward.
The T2 climbs in the turns much better with the added tip area, it much more efficient as I bank it up. This with the added launch height due to the shorter nose length has really helped my flying. I always remember what Bruce D told me and that is "let it fly, molded ships are very efficient and like to cover ground, it will take a little bit of adjustment from a bagged wing".

With this in mind and also like with the T1 I have found that a little ballast does not hurt these molded ships. It helps the launch height as well as gives them some legs when it is time to return home from a down wind thermal run where you can barley see it.

As to the tip area being weaker, well yes it/they are as there is no solid foam in there like a bag wing. However, when you build these moldies make sure that the blade is put in with some nice and runny slow set epoxy, allow it to run on the top and bottom (inside) of the wing to stiffen the area around the blade and get out of the habit (like I had) of flipping your wrist when you throw it.

I am loving mine, just wish they were 1/2 price so I could have 3-4 in the box ;-)
atlav8r is online now Find More Posts by atlav8r
Site Sponsor
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 19, 2010, 03:55 PM
Master of the Wind
G Norsworthy's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Sep 2008
1,178 Posts
Can anybody post the size and configuration of the 500mah pack? I don't see anything like this in the US. Is it 2/3AAA square?
G Norsworthy is offline Find More Posts by G Norsworthy
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 19, 2010, 04:06 PM
atlav8r's Avatar
Cumming Ga
Joined Apr 2002
2,916 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by G Norsworthy View Post
Can anybody post the size and configuration of the 500mah pack? I don't see anything like this in the US. Is it 2/3AAA square?

I have the 2s 350 TP lipo in mine but did have to add a little weight so the NIMH could be the way to go but I don't know the weights.

Lots of T2's being delivered this week. G Norsworthy, yours is showing out for delivery tomorrow.
CW
atlav8r is online now Find More Posts by atlav8r
Site Sponsor
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 19, 2010, 04:11 PM
Hugh Blackburn
floquet's Avatar
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jun 2005
486 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by G Norsworthy View Post
Can anybody post the size and configuration of the 500mah pack? I don't see anything like this in the US. Is it 2/3AAA square?
It's 4 x N cells (NiMH). I think you have to be inventive in layout to get them as far forward as you can in the nose since as you can see it's rather tight. BTW 4xN cells = 40.5gm bare weight.

Hugh
floquet is offline Find More Posts by floquet
Reply With Quote
Old Aug 19, 2010, 04:36 PM
Maurice
mpodder's Avatar
Bakersfield, Cal.
Joined Jul 2004
1,099 Posts
Its the standard 2/3AAA size Greg. The only thing I have found here is 400 mah from Cheap battery. The real problem is if you use the 2/3AAA you will have a hard time useing any servo other than D47s. I used DS188s but even with the RC Builder lipo and a 6106 there is not enough room for the supplied ballast tube. I used the same system as the FW5. I have updated my post in this thread with pictures of the final ballast set up. Its post 119 http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=119

Maurice
mpodder is online now Find More Posts by mpodder
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools