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Old Jul 17, 2012, 11:28 AM
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You won't know for sure until you try a new motor.
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Old Jul 17, 2012, 01:15 PM
FlyMike
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United States, MI, Holly
Joined Nov 2011
102 Posts
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Originally Posted by Tim2 View Post
Ok I need some expert advise here. I have had my SR for 2 years but have only started flying (hovering) it this year as I normally concentrate on planes. I am finding that the tail all of a sudden just turns on its own from time to time. It seems to be doing it more and more. Does this mean I need to replace the tail motor?

Thanks ... Tim
I have been through several tail motors, and your symptoms are exactly what I experienced before complete failure. Now I change motors at the first sign of not holding. Especially true if the tail has been holding up to now.
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 12:40 AM
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Devon, Alberta
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Originally Posted by mmilan View Post
I have been through several tail motors, and your symptoms are exactly what I experienced before complete failure. Now I change motors at the first sign of not holding. Especially true if the tail has been holding up to now.
Thanks I will pick up a new motor tomorrow.

Tim
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Old Jul 18, 2012, 11:27 PM
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Devon, Alberta
Joined Apr 2003
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Thanks guys,

Put in the new motor and solved my problem. Actually it runs quite a bit smoother and quieter than the original one. Also less tail wag. I should probably buy some extras to keep on hand.

Thanks again ... Tim
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Old Aug 07, 2012, 05:59 AM
Highball
Canada, ON, Sault Ste. Marie
Joined Jun 2012
11 Posts
Hello there. This is my first post here, I think. Or maybe not, but at any rate, I need help for my Blade SR. I have to replace the main gear, but in trying to get the rotor head to move up a little so I can remove the old gear, I managed to strip the allen screw on the main shaft collar. [I promise not to use cheap tools anymore]. Does anyone know of a way to remove a stripped 1.5mm allen screw with minimal destruction? I'm getting ready to start pulling my hair out.
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Old Aug 07, 2012, 06:14 AM
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined Aug 2011
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Just for starters, you may want to get a "good" 1.5 Allen key and see if it will work. If that does not work, you could try some epoxy on your old key, letting it set for 24 hours. Get the longest setting epoxy you can find, but still let it set for 24 hours.
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 10:01 AM
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United States, UT, Hurricane
Joined Aug 2012
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New guy here. I have been flying fixed pitch 4 channel for a while and decided to move up to an SR. Mostly because the only hobby shop within 100 miles of me carries them and parts.. although long story, I'll NEVER go there again.

Got the SR out read the instructions, did all the tests etc all seemed good, EXCEPT MY CG. I had to move my battery so the tip ofthe battery is 1 5/8" past the front of the battery perch.

Has anyone run into this?? I talked to horizon and they said add some nose weight. OK I agree with that. BUT WTH?? I should not have to I mean the battery is so far forward, I cannot get the body on over it.

I am sure adding weight will bandaid the issue but I want to know what is wrong so I can fix it right.

My thoughts... wrong battery?? although it is marked correct. What should my stock battery weigh??

Tail boom wrong?? MAybe to long? I got about 11 inches from the front of the boom (well at least where I imagine it is without removing it) to the center of the tail motor.

Thanks in advance for any input!
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 02:37 PM
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The stock Blade SR battery is a 1000 mah, 3S battery. It doesn't matter how far the battery has to sit forward so long as you can still get the canopy on. If you can't, then move it to where the canopy will fit and then add weight. You can use lead fishing weights cut down to size or a big nut of the proper weight.
I haven't flown mine for some time when it was stock. I have a Huey UH-1 fuse on it, so the balance is different.
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 04:32 PM
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United States, UT, Hurricane
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Originally Posted by xviper View Post
The stock Blade SR battery is a 1000 mah, 3S battery. It doesn't matter how far the battery has to sit forward so long as you can still get the canopy on. If you can't, then move it to where the canopy will fit and then add weight. You can use lead fishing weights cut down to size or a big nut of the proper weight.
I haven't flown mine for some time when it was stock. I have a Huey UH-1 fuse on it, so the balance is different.
Thanks Viper. I knew that adding weight would fix the issue. but my question is WHY is there an issue? The canopy WONT fit on with the battery as far forward as it needs to be to balance. Sure adding weight will fix that but should I have to??

If they supposedly test fly ALL blade SRs from the factory... How the heck did they do it if it does not balance properly??
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 05:44 PM
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United States, TX, Houston
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I would suggest that you punch (modify) a couple of holes in the canopy moving them so that your lipo will fit better.
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Old Aug 09, 2012, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by metalwizard View Post
Thanks Viper. I knew that adding weight would fix the issue. but my question is WHY is there an issue? The canopy WONT fit on with the battery as far forward as it needs to be to balance. Sure adding weight will fix that but should I have to??

If they supposedly test fly ALL blade SRs from the factory... How the heck did they do it if it does not balance properly??
I have to agree with you here. The stock SR should be balanced given what it comes with, but it seems that this hobby is an activity where we are compelled to tinker to make things right.
I can't honestly say if or how much weight I had to add to mine because it's been so long since it was a "pod and boom" heli. I do know that I have other pod and boom helis where I had to add lead (duct taped) to the inside nose of the canopy and others where I just used a much bigger battery. My Huey SR has a block of lead taped to the inside of the nose.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 10:07 AM
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United States, UT, Hurricane
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Originally Posted by xviper View Post
I have to agree with you here. The stock SR should be balanced given what it comes with, but it seems that this hobby is an activity where we are compelled to tinker to make things right.
I can't honestly say if or how much weight I had to add to mine because it's been so long since it was a "pod and boom" heli. I do know that I have other pod and boom helis where I had to add lead (duct taped) to the inside nose of the canopy and others where I just used a much bigger battery. My Huey SR has a block of lead taped to the inside of the nose.

Thanks Viper. I will add some weight for now. then upgrade the battery in a while. I think that will be the best choice.

I figure adding the weight under the nose on the bottom will be the best choice. this should keep the CG low as possible and help with stability

I really cant wait to get this thing in the air.. BUT Before I do I am really thinking about the belt drive for it. seems like a REALLY good upgrade.and if I have to balance it Why do it twice. add the tail drive now. get the CG on spot once!
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 10:23 AM
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Unless you have experience with RC CP helis, you might want to at least hover it a few times before sinking money into modding it. The SR is not known to be beginner friendly and mishaps are a good possibility. Better spend the money on repairs than to spend more money on repairing damaged mods.
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 07:25 PM
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United States, UT, Hurricane
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Originally Posted by xviper View Post
Unless you have experience with RC CP helis, you might want to at least hover it a few times before sinking money into modding it. The SR is not known to be beginner friendly and mishaps are a good possibility. Better spend the money on repairs than to spend more money on repairing damaged mods.
Yeah I am reading RADDS lessons right now. and I do plan on burning up my first tail motor before I mod it. I figured at same point I would need to make repairs.. and what better time to add to the Heli...

Honestly.. how much harder is CP than FP ??

thanks for all the input. I cant wait to get this baby spun up!
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Old Aug 10, 2012, 07:53 PM
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Yeah I am reading RADDS lessons right now. and I do plan on burning up my first tail motor before I mod it. I figured at same point I would need to make repairs.. and what better time to add to the Heli...

Honestly.. how much harder is CP than FP ??

thanks for all the input. I cant wait to get this baby spun up!
I went from coaxial to FP to CP and although my skill development may be vastly different from yours, I found the step from Coax to FP to be about a "3" (on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being most difficult). I was flying stuff like the CX3, MCX, Walkera Lama 400, then went to Hirobo Quark, MSR, Walkera UflyS, HoneyBee V2. Keep in mind that the Quark, MSR, UflyS are all "self stabilizing" FP helis.
Then from FP to CP was about a "6". My first CP was a Thunder Tiger Innovator MD530, which is considered one of the easiest CP helis to learn on due to it's computer programmability and slow headspeed and flexible foam rotor blades. Then came the Blade 400, which was more like a "10". The SR is sort of a "tamed down", smaller version of a B400, but still very high on the difficulty scale. Had I started with the B400 or SR, I think I would have taken much longer to learn to just hover. I would classify the SR using my scale as about an "8".
The old adage that RC heli flyers use, "it's like balancing a metal ball bearing in the middle of a sheet of plate glass", is not too far off the mark. However only you will be able to say what it's going to be like.
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