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Old Apr 12, 2012, 09:10 AM
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United States, NY, Wolcott
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Got it.... Look at second post here...
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t573527p1/

What I did was take the top screw out and flipped the cup over. This allowed the head to go up more instead of hitting the cup. I now have around +11 and -11 degrees of pitch and 0 pitch at 0 stick.

Now its time to go fly it!
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 01:41 PM
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I ran one battery in my garage. Its the only one I have atm... the stock one. Have 2 nanos on the way though. I did a series of hops and 5 second hovers. Started to get the feel of it at the end. I had 30% expo and its waaay too mushy. Cut it back to 15% for next time. Looking forward to more! Sure is different than the sim. life is good
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Old Apr 12, 2012, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jrjr View Post
I ran one battery in my garage. Its the only one I have atm... the stock one. Have 2 nanos on the way though. I did a series of hops and 5 second hovers. Started to get the feel of it at the end. Looking forward to more! Sure is different than the sim. life is good
good deal.
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 06:53 AM
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Anyone tried these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ESky-EK4-000...item1e5bd023c8
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 02:48 PM
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not I. The ones that I found are GREAT are the carbon fiber CP blades.

another thing to mention is I am not sure how long you have been into helis but the blade grips are supposed to be tight enough to hold the blade but not holding the blade rigid to the point where the blade cannot move. You still want the blade to move in the blade grip. Something I learned when I got the carbon fiber cp blades and ruined a grip because I couldn't get them tight enough when in reality they were way over tight.

The trick for blade tension is to get the blades tightened and then hold the helicopter on it's side so the blades are horizontal and give the helicopter a down swing in your hands and you want both blades to drop evenly.
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 03:22 PM
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not I. The ones that I found are GREAT are the carbon fiber CP blades.

another thing to mention is I am not sure how long you have been into helis but the blade grips are supposed to be tight enough to hold the blade but not holding the blade rigid to the point where the blade cannot move. You still want the blade to move in the blade grip. Something I learned when I got the carbon fiber cp blades and ruined a grip because I couldn't get them tight enough when in reality they were way over tight.

The trick for blade tension is to get the blades tightened and then hold the helicopter on it's side so the blades are horizontal and give the helicopter a down swing in your hands and you want both blades to drop evenly.
Thanks, yea I knew about the tension. Ive had an msr, 2 stock cx2, one CF/brushless ultimate cx3, 120SR. and now the blade SR. Still a newb to helis though. Been flying fixed wings for 25 years though.

I thought those were pretty cheap is all.
Is this what you are referring to?
http://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Fiber-M.../dp/B000RZC5RY
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 03:40 PM
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Thanks, yea I knew about the tension. Ive had an msr, 2 stock cx2, one CF/brushless ultimate cx3, 120SR. and now the blade SR. Still a newb to helis though. Been flying fixed wings for 25 years though.

I thought those were pretty cheap is all.
Is this what you are referring to?
http://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Fiber-M.../dp/B000RZC5RY
those are by a different brand but look the same, these are the ones I was talking about. http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-Flite-Blad...item5ae62f8fb5


I started flying nitro fixed wings when I was about 12, and flew for quite a while, got out of it, got back in with a msr and a blade sr a couple years ago now, moved through those and now I'm 31 and I find myself back into the fixed wing addiction, just got done with my first 3d foamie recently, it's a dw foamies yak 55 m 48" span. flew it in the park the other night, sooooooo much fun.

I find that after all the sim flight time I put in over the years on the heli's and after flying my helis a bunch I find that my left thumb (rudder) is completely alive in fixed wing flying now.
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Old Apr 13, 2012, 04:31 PM
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I started flying inside this year in a gymnasium.... first time the walls and ceiling came up really fast! Got used to it though. I fly helis inside and I have an Extra 3D foamie... great fun. Also tried the beast in there but its a tad too fast for my liking.

Not sure how this SR is gonna work out for me. Ive done about 5-6 batteries and only occasionally hovered for 10-15 seconds before I had to set her down. I am flying in a 3 car garage with one car in there... should move out the last car I guess. I will stick with it though and should improve eventually. The Phoenix sim is a cakewalk compared to the real thing. Man this thing is super sensitive.

I should probably stick with cheaper blades for now. Havent crashed yet but its only a matter of time! Oh, and I'm 57 now! The old reflexes aren't as good as they used to be.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 10:34 AM
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United States, MN, Otsego
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New to the SR!

Hope this is the right place to post this... I have been going through this thread (up to page 123 so far!) and I just purchased the UH-1 Huey version of this fine machine.

I have flown FP and coaxial before that (I still fly my coax in fact regularly) but this will be my very first CP heli. I know this is supposed to be setup out of the box and having read extensively and mechanically trimmed out my fp helis (my coax never needed any mechanical trim) I am well aware of the trim process for basic fp swash linkages.

Even as a beginner's heli that is supposed to be setup at the factory out of the box (I like HH products but I know better than to just trust this is true in all cases) I expected a bit more detail in the manual or on the cd about mechanical trim and things to check and pitch guage use etc. I found nothing there unless I missed it.

I have read that CP helis generally should have a level swash and mine out of the box is nowhere near level so I am actually afraid to spool this baby up and see what happens.

Should the swash be fairly level with respect to the shaft or is it normal for it to be visibly tilted?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Jim
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by jcmors View Post
Hope this is the right place to post this... I have been going through this thread (up to page 123 so far!) and I just purchased the UH-1 Huey version of this fine machine.

I have flown FP and coaxial before that (I still fly my coax in fact regularly) but this will be my very first CP heli. I know this is supposed to be setup out of the box and having read extensively and mechanically trimmed out my fp helis (my coax never needed any mechanical trim) I am well aware of the trim process for basic fp swash linkages.

Even as a beginner's heli that is supposed to be setup at the factory out of the box (I like HH products but I know better than to just trust this is true in all cases) I expected a bit more detail in the manual or on the cd about mechanical trim and things to check and pitch guage use etc. I found nothing there unless I missed it.

I have read that CP helis generally should have a level swash and mine out of the box is nowhere near level so I am actually afraid to spool this baby up and see what happens.

Should the swash be fairly level with respect to the shaft or is it normal for it to be visibly tilted?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Jim
The swash should be level once the heli has bound to the TX and has done its initialization.
Horizon Hobby marketted this as a "beginners" CP heli. This is far from the truth. Proceed slowly and with caution. As many "beginners" have discovered, this thing may last only several seconds before you're buying a lot of parts.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 01:57 PM
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The swash should be level once the heli has bound to the TX and has done its initialization.
Horizon Hobby marketted this as a "beginners" CP heli. This is far from the truth. Proceed slowly and with caution. As many "beginners" have discovered, this thing may last only several seconds before you're buying a lot of parts.
Thank you for the response. I am used to mechanically trimming my FP helis and sometimes to get them to hover without drifting left, right, forward or back the swash is not completely level, not even with respect to the main shaft (some of my FP helis have a main shaft that is purposely angled to the right when looking from the tail). Th SR UH-1 swash seems to be (again looking in from the tail end) angled towards the right some and also towards the front (looking from the side).

I thought perhaps this is where the mechanical adjustment needed to be in order to get a stable hover without drift.

Should I level the swash before I do anything, or spool it up and slowly come off the ground and perhaps anticipate the possibility of having to give it a bit of back and left cyclic in order to keep it from drifting and see where the heli goes, then mechanically trim it from there.

I'm not a big fan on my FPs of using too much TX trim. I will use it to see where things lie and then land and adjust the linkages to compensate, then center the tx trims and take off again but I am really concerned as to whether or not this is a good thing for me to try with my very first CP heli.

Can you tell that I am nervous? Does it show?

Jim
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by jcmors View Post
Thank you for the response. I am used to mechanically trimming my FP helis and sometimes to get them to hover without drifting left, right, forward or back the swash is not completely level, not even with respect to the main shaft (some of my FP helis have a main shaft that is purposely angled to the right when looking from the tail). Th SR UH-1 swash seems to be (again looking in from the tail end) angled towards the right some and also towards the front (looking from the side).

I thought perhaps this is where the mechanical adjustment needed to be in order to get a stable hover without drift.

Should I level the swash before I do anything, or spool it up and slowly come off the ground and perhaps anticipate the possibility of having to give it a bit of back and left cyclic in order to keep it from drifting and see where the heli goes, then mechanically trim it from there.

I'm not a big fan on my FPs of using too much TX trim. I will use it to see where things lie and then land and adjust the linkages to compensate, then center the tx trims and take off again but I am really concerned as to whether or not this is a good thing for me to try with my very first CP heli.

Can you tell that I am nervous? Does it show?

Jim
"Eye balling" it may not be a good way to determine angle. Things may not be what they seem.
Certainly, you can trim out the swash electronically to get a "stable" hover but you don't want to dip into the trim adjustment too far. It's always better to have level swash with trim at or near mid-point. In this way, you know that you have maximal trim capability but more importantly, you'll know that the servo is sitting around mid-point when all is level. (Eg, you don't want to have a servo sitting 1/2 way between its mid-point and its full travel in that direction. This doesn't leave adequate room for natural servo travel with stick movement.)
Get the swash as level as possible mechanically by doing the adjustment via the linkage rod lengths. Do minor trimming once hovering. To be sure of the most stable hover you can possible get, your tail gyro needs to be set as far into HH as possible before tail "hunting". As I said before, this is not a "beginners" CP heli. A "stable" hover is merely a generalized description. Without electronic stabilization gear, no CP heli will ever be truly stable, especially when comparing to a FP or coaxial helicopter. It's commonly described as trying to balance a ball bearing in the middle of a round glass tray. The ball will hardly ever stay in the middle. This is thing can easily get away from you and head for the dirt. It's even more difficult if you can't keep the tail pointed at you the whole time (tail gyro).
Although it may be scary, a CP heli is best operated in "idle up" mode. Unlike a FP heli, a CP heli is flown by pitch, not by motor speed (in conjunction with pitch).
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 10:57 PM
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"Eye balling" it may not be a good way to determine angle. Things may not be what they seem.
Certainly, you can trim out the swash electronically to get a "stable" hover but you don't want to dip into the trim adjustment too far. It's always better to have level swash with trim at or near mid-point. In this way, you know that you have maximal trim capability but more importantly, you'll know that the servo is sitting around mid-point when all is level. .....
I really apopreciate your answers xviper. Here is my dilema, this is my very first CP heli and "supposedly" it is setup and adjusted at the factory. There are no swach or mechanical trim tuning instructions in the manual at all. The only reason I know about the swash being level on a CP heli is because I spend probably more time than I should in these forums ever since I got my first co-axial as a Christmas present from my wife. Little did she know that is was goiong to turn into an addiction. Not knowing how the swash is really supposed to look and what is meant exactly by "level" I am afraid to adjust it to where I think level should be using the mechanical linkages. What if it is setup right to begin with? For a CP heli I really would have expected sometihng in the manual about mechanical adjustments and a guide to how things should look. The heli even came with a dvd but nothing helpful there as far as mechanical swash trimming.

Would it be best to take the chance and bring her off the ground and see if it just "looks" off to me or would it be better to make the swash level first and assume that the folks at blade didn't set it right to begin with?

Jim
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jcmors View Post
I really apopreciate your answers xviper. Here is my dilema, this is my very first CP heli and "supposedly" it is setup and adjusted at the factory. There are no swach or mechanical trim tuning instructions in the manual at all. The only reason I know about the swash being level on a CP heli is because I spend probably more time than I should in these forums ever since I got my first co-axial as a Christmas present from my wife. Little did she know that is was goiong to turn into an addiction. Not knowing how the swash is really supposed to look and what is meant exactly by "level" I am afraid to adjust it to where I think level should be using the mechanical linkages. What if it is setup right to begin with? For a CP heli I really would have expected sometihng in the manual about mechanical adjustments and a guide to how things should look. The heli even came with a dvd but nothing helpful there as far as mechanical swash trimming.

Would it be best to take the chance and bring her off the ground and see if it just "looks" off to me or would it be better to make the swash level first and assume that the folks at blade didn't set it right to begin with?

Jim
One cannot make the assumption that this helicopter comes out of the box already set-up properly. There's a good chance that it is but there is also a chance that it isn't. Lifting off from the ground for the first time, you are well advised to fabricate some sort of "training gear" or buy a set that's appropriate for this size of heli. If you have some experience with FP, you will know very well that you must get it high enough to get out of the ground effect (at least 3 feet), which can add to the problems of having a safe and successful first hover. At least with training gear, you can give yourself a small safety net. I think most people who have this helicopter will tell you that the first novice lift off will be a dance and not necessarily one of joy.
This heli is a "3-servo" actuated swash. That is, there are 3 servos that make it move. From each servo, there is a linkage rod the goes to the swash. Once the servos are centered after initialization and then de-powered, it is these 3 rods that are adjusted to level the swash. Then comes blade tracking, which the manual does talk about. I think at this point, if the swash isn't obviously out of level, then proceed with tracking. If you don't know what you're doing, trying to level the swash can lead to a huge mess. You can do tracking with the heli clamped down to a test stand and using very little positive pitch (not enough to create strong lift). After you've done the best you can with tracking, try a free hover with training gear. Know where your "kill switch" is. That's the throttle hold. If you're going to hit hard, kill the motor so it isn't under power upon contact. Less damage that way. Also know that you don't want to lower your left stick (pitch) rapidly as this can cause the heli to be driven into the ground or have a boom strike. Remember, low stick should have negative pitch. Ideally, you should have checked the pitch through the complete range of low to high stick using a pitch gauge (and having disconnected the motor for safety). You can't assume this is correct from the factory either.
If you are using the factory TX, there are 2 modes. One is a "mushy" mode that makes the sticks less sensitive but some have felt this mode can be a detriment to a beginner. I don't know what to tell you on this and I hope others will post up their opinions as reading only mine isn't the best way to go. The SR was not my first CP heli. I'd gotten the basics down with a 450 size that can be "dumbed down" via a computer link.
It's a bit of risk that you bought the UH-1 version as your intro to CP. It's such a nice heli to have a mishap with. The one without the scale fuse may have been a better way to go given your circumstances. The fuse is fairly light, thin and a bit fragile. Hover tail in till it gets almost boring, then try to turn it bit in each direction and hover some more. It's not unlike your FP, except that you really need to develop that muscle memory to a good extent.
I had hoped more people would respond to you. The more opinions, the better.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 10:00 AM
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One cannot make the assumption that this helicopter comes out of the box already set-up properly. There's a good chance that it is but there is also a chance that it isn't. Lifting off from the ground for the first time, you are well advised to fabricate some sort of "training gear" or buy a set that's appropriate for this size of heli. ... <snip> ...

It's a bit of risk that you bought the UH-1 version as your intro to CP. It's such a nice heli to have a mishap with. The one without the scale fuse may have been a better way to go given your circumstances. The fuse is fairly light, thin and a bit fragile. Hover tail in till it gets almost boring, then try to turn it bit in each direction and hover some more. It's not unlike your FP, except that you really need to develop that muscle memory to a good extent.
I had hoped more people would respond to you. The more opinions, the better.
I agree that this is a very nice scale heli to be risking as a first attempt at CP. I couldn't resist it though and this is exactly why I am here trying to get as much advice as possible before I take her out for a maiden spool up (not expecting an actual flight for some time to come). I have the phoenix flight sim and have been using the blade SR in the sim for some time. I can hover is the sim in tail in, and both sides but not so good at nose in at all yet.

I resisted this purchase as long as I could but I figured having it here gives me more motivation to work the sticks on the sim and really try to prepare myself for my first hover attempt. Also I received permission from the wife to make the purchase and that is an opportunity I could not let slide by! I have some extra blades and an extra battery. I know that there will be mishaps along the way, I just want to both minimize them and also be prepared for them when they happen. If anyone has advice as to other spare parts I should have on hand, please enlighten me!

I have training gear to attach already as well when the time comes.

I bought a pitch gauge and have been reading up on setting the pitch for CP helis though this one seems to be purposely set differently from most if I read the thread here correctly in that in normal mode the range of negative to positive pitch on the throttle collective is not equal.

I have been patient and don't like to take chances as I have progressed through the hobby thus far, ergo the Phoenix flight sim.

Thank you for your input and advice. I always listen to good advice

Jim
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