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Old Jan 04, 2010, 10:52 PM
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New Product
LEGEND MODEL BOATS "California Cracker Box"

This is a look see of what you can expect in the newest kit to be manufactured by Legend Model Boats, as we start the build of the proof model before we go into production with the kit. As with all the Legend boat kits, it will come as a complete model, with custom running hardware supplied by M.A.C.K. Products, so the modeler can build it for either static or with the addition of the power package race ready for P Spec. class racing.

First we assemble our boxed keel which we use in all of our kits. This allows for perfect aliment for the propeller stuffing box and rudder stuffing box, as well as providing good gluing for the planking to the keel and the stem post.
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Old Jan 04, 2010, 11:01 PM
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Next we locate frame #1 and frame #2 from the laser cut sheets, and cut our gluing blocks fro the 1/4” square balsa for the interior cockpit sides and floor boards. They are glued in the positions laser etched on the frames.
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Old Jan 04, 2010, 11:07 PM
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We prepared a building board using a laminated partial board shelving by drawing a center line and then perpendicular lines every 2” down the length of the board. This is the third build on this board.
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Old Jan 04, 2010, 11:20 PM
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We next assemble the frame work into the keel and stem post assembly and then carefully assemble the two lite ply wood shears to lock the frame work and stem post together. Centering the stem post over the center line on the building board, we tack glue with medium CA the step post to the board.

At the transom using a right angle straight edge, center the transom over the center line of the building board and tack glue the feet of the transom frame to the board with medium CA glue.
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Old Jan 04, 2010, 11:33 PM
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Now starting with frame #3, measuring from the center line to each of the frame feet making sure that the frame is centered, tack glue the feet down to the building board. Going forward and aft from frame #3, holding down each frame so its feet are against the building board, glue the remaining feet down to the building board.

Once all the frame feet are glued to the building board proceed to start gluing the shears to the stem post , then working back toward the transom each of the frames making sure that the shear in all the way in the frame notches.

Once the shears are glued to the frames, go back and glue the frames to the keel at the notch joints.
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Old Jan 04, 2010, 11:50 PM
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Next comes the laminated chines made from the 1/8”x1/4”x36” bass wood battens. First lay one of the strips into its notches along the chine down to the stem post. Some carving with a Xacto knife will be need in the notch at the stem post to allow for the double thickness of the chine to come to the center of the stem post. Also the end of the strip must be cut at an angle to allow the opposite side chine to butt , coming to a point at the center of the stem post. Once fit glue in place with medium CA glue.

The second chine batten will be glued to the top of the first batten but remember to cut the butt joint angle at the stem post be fore gluing. This will give you the 1/4”x1/4” bass wood chines.

Do the same procedure on the opposite side of the hull, but butting the battens at the stem post.
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Old Jan 05, 2010, 06:32 AM
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Wow all that in just 1 hour. Looks very fine.

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Old Jan 05, 2010, 07:22 AM
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Nice design work, Rich. Especially like the keel slot for the stuffing box---.
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Old Jan 05, 2010, 03:14 PM
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Rich,

That looks like it will be a great looking/running boat. I'll be following your build. Thanks for sharing. as if i need another boat... Harry
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Old Jan 05, 2010, 05:22 PM
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The next items to install are the bottom battens. They are made with the 1/8”x1/4”x36” bass wood batten material. The two battens closest to the keel will run in their frame notches from the transom to frame #6 and stop. The four remaining bottom batten will run in their frame notches from the transom to the chines were they will be let in. all the battens will be glued with medium CA.
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Old Jan 05, 2010, 05:28 PM
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After the bottom battens are glued in place, proceed to fit the side battens using the same bass wood batten material. Remember that the side battens must be angle cut at the stem post for a butt joint like was done for the chines.
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Old Jan 05, 2010, 05:41 PM
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Now we start the process of fairing the frame work and battens in preparation for the balsa sheet planking to follow. Take your time and go slowly checking with a straight edge as you go so you don’t sand a warp or a gully in the frame work. The bottom skin is only as true as the frame work it is fastened to.

The use of a sanding block will help in truing the frame work. Once the bottom is trued, move on to the sides of the hull, again truing the frame work from the transom to the stem post.
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Old Jan 05, 2010, 05:57 PM
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With the frame work all trued we can start our side planking using one of the 3/32”x4”x36” hard balsa sheets. Clamps of some type like the little bar clamps shown in the pictures will help with the fitting and gluing of the planks. The planks can be trimmed way over sized as the planking goes to the stem post.

Once fitted and clamped at the shears the building board can be tilted up so you can glue the side planking to the frame work thru the bottom frame work with thin CA glue. You only have to tack glue the frame work to the side planking to hold it in place until the hull is cut loose from the building board.
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Old Jan 05, 2010, 06:02 PM
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With the second side plank glued in position you can now trim and sand true to the bottom and chines the side planking from the transom to the stem post on both sides of the hull. Also sand the second side plank true to the first plank coming to a point at the stem.
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Old Jan 05, 2010, 06:36 PM
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Now we are ready to start the bottom planking. Using one of the 3/32”x3”x36” hard balsa sheets line up one side of the sheet with the centerline of the keel clamp in place from the transom up until the plank over the center line at the turn of the stem. With a pencil mark the turn of the stem post on the under side of the plank. Also mark were the chine crosses the bottom planking. You will trim the bottom plank wide of the pencil marks so that it can be trim sanded after it is glued in place.

Now starting at the transom start gluing the frame work and the battens that will be covered by the bottom plank for a frame or two. Use the medium CA for gluing and accelerator to help with the tack gluing. Working forward a couple of frames at a time, you will finish up by gluing the bottom planking running over the side planking at the chine to the stem post.
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