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Old Mar 23, 2010, 10:12 PM
Dragon Slayer
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Shelton,WA
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Thanks guys:

Arrowminded:
I've been biulding boats for a looooong time, it started in 1955, and I've learned something from every one of them, rather it be plastic kits or wood, fiber glass or polystyreen, they can all show you some thing you didn't think about on the last one, that is if you could remember what it was you learned.

Norgate:
the planking looks good but it is not the way it is done on the real boat, but who will now know that the real boat has been dismantaled to a pile of fire wood.
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Old Mar 23, 2010, 10:16 PM
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But Wawona lives on through your project!
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Old Mar 23, 2010, 10:20 PM
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That's true Aero that is true.
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Old Mar 23, 2010, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ropanach View Post
Thanks guys:

...that is if you could remember what it was you learned.
I know the feeling!
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Old Mar 24, 2010, 04:49 PM
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#25's will do that to ya you know. Ropanach did you cut your planks yourself or buy planking for this hull? I'll be cutting 10' planks for the Great Republic when I get to building her. They will have to be pretty thick but I havn't decided what kind of wood to use. Curious as to what you used. Pete
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Old Mar 24, 2010, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norgale View Post
#25's will do that to ya you know.
I think you might be right, Norgale.
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Old Mar 24, 2010, 04:59 PM
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I know I'm right. I've had fourty years of Buds to prove it notto mention all the stupid things I did in that time. Ahhhhh! The fun of it all. Ha! Pete
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Old Mar 24, 2010, 07:59 PM
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Shelton,WA
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#25's will do that to you, unless you chase it with a shot of your best wiskey,

norgale:

I cut my planks on a 10" table saw, they are 1/2" x 3/16" I bend them around corners by soakeing them in ammonia, if you look back to the first #1 thread you can see what I and how I do it, it works for me. I am useing mohageny, with 1/4" plywood for the stantions/ribs, But if you are cutting 10' planks you might need to use dugfir or ceader, ceader being the lighter of the two.
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Old Mar 24, 2010, 09:41 PM
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Hee hee!
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Old Mar 25, 2010, 10:22 AM
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Heh Heh yo seff! I think Cedar would be too oily to take a good finish of paint and or epoxy. DF would be good maybe but isn't that kinda stiff and brittle? I was thinking poplar or basswood. Pete
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Old Mar 25, 2010, 10:49 PM
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norgale:

When I said ceader, I was refuring to old groth, not fence stock witch is oily, I still have a small portion of old groth in the back shed, it's 6' x 48" x 6", I could cut some for you but the shipping would kill the bank at 2442 mi's away from here.

but yes basswood will work quite nicely, if you use the meat of the cut not the sapwood or hart wood, you need what is between those two for the easies workable wood.
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Old Mar 26, 2010, 04:33 PM
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I'll decide about the wood when the time comes. I'll prolly jusygo with whats pletiful around here. Maybe cypress or yellow pine or live oak. All that grows here a lot. Don't know if it's suitable though. pete
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Old Mar 26, 2010, 09:35 PM
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the yellow pine would, if you could get kiln dried so most of the oil is cooked out, it's alot oilier than ceader, the oak will move on you with moisture, so you ned to think about that problem,I've never used Cypress before so I can't say how it will work out LOL.
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Old Mar 28, 2010, 09:11 PM
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I'll probably end up just getting something from HD and slicing it up on my table saw. All their wood is dried and they usually carry about ten different kinds of boards in several different lengts and widths. May even get brave and use cherry wood. The hull of the GR was painted black so any imperfections in the wood can be covered up easily. Question is what's the most stable wood and which would last the longest? Pete
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Old Mar 28, 2010, 10:29 PM
Kraut
Dolores, Colorado
Joined Dec 2007
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I was surprised by the maple I used on the planking of my big tub, its pretty hard, but still easy to bend and shape.
I liked it a lot
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