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Old Dec 27, 2011, 01:48 PM
Dragon Slayer
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Shelton,WA
Joined Nov 2004
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Aerominded:

No she had blocks and deadeys,blocks for ajustment, deadeye for holding. But I don,t think they will hold up to the stress that will be placed on the rigging, this being the mast rigging all others will work with block, but I do have some Iron wood that will work in this scale, before I go too the turnbuckles, I'll try a set of iron wood block and see what happends.
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 01:59 PM
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Monterey Bay California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ropanach View Post
...before I go too the turnbuckles, I'll try a set of iron wood block and see what happends.
Could be worth a shot. whatever load the rig will develop will be spread over a lot of those blocks and dead eyes so they may not be too stressed. (assuming the wood is not brittle) Hopefully you don't have to rig the boat every time you take it to the lake!

Another option that could work for deadeyes and blocks might be small black or brown shirt buttons.
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 04:14 PM
Dragon Slayer
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Shelton,WA
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Aerominded:

I never thought of shirt buttons, mostly because my wife collects buttons, they might just turn up gone every time I go to sale.
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ropanach View Post
Aerominded:

I never thought of shirt buttons, mostly because my wife collects buttons, they might just turn up gone every time I go to sale.
Hee hee, small, generic buttons with 4 holes, like those used to hold down shirt collars would be about right... and safe from the collectors! My wife is starting to collect buttons too.
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 05:32 PM
SCALE Sailor
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United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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And cup hooks! Don't forget cup hooks!
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 06:57 PM
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Dolores, Colorado
Joined Dec 2007
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I have to dig it out, but I have a drawing how to use blocks, hand made to adjust rigging, I think it would fit your boat just right, and it would not cost much.
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 08:05 PM
Dragon Slayer
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Shelton,WA
Joined Nov 2004
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Schrott:
Adrawing of the blocks would be nice.
Aerominded:
I would like to use the deadeyes and blocks, the button idea was a good one though.

jerrytodd:
cup hooks?
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 08:58 PM
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Bozeman, Montana, United States
Joined Aug 2003
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Buttons work very well as inexpensive blocks, as deadeyes for shrouds or backstays, or as bowsies. For my 2 squareriggers, I used the smallest 4-hole buttons I could find at Walmart. I dyed them with black Ritz dye. Spectra type fish line is used for the rigging from mast to deadeye, and cotton-wrapped polyester thread is used for the lanyard (the line leading from top to bottom deadeye, making the unit into a block&tackle).

I personally don't think thread & fishline rigging with button deadeyes is inferior in strength to bottlescrews (turnbuckles). My ships' rigging has survived numerous ship knockdowns w/o failure, for instance. I'd rather trust my masts and spars to rigging I made, rather than a mechanical dodad of uncertain quality control :-)

Google "deadeye rigging diagram" for the method of reeving the lanyard. It's pretty simple: jam a stopper knot in a hole of the upper deadeye, then lace the line down and up between the remaining holes, keeping the lines parallel (with their own side, they won't be parallel with the other side of the deadeye); finish with a hitch around the shroud. Or save yourself bother of slow Internet downloads, and just get The Ashley Book of Knots, pg.537, my favorite :-)

My rigging is functional, not scale. Thus, I simplify the reeving of the lanyard. Namely, I just tie the lanyard to one of the holes in the button (rather than using a stopper knot), reeve though the other 2 holes, per real practice, then tie off the lanyard to the shroud. The shroud itself is tied to the 4th hole, rather than being lead around the deadeye and seized, per real ship practice. This works, and won't be noticed as non-scale when the ship is at sea. Or, you can rig it just like real, if you prefer :-)

Getting several deadeyes to line up evenly takes some experimentation with length of shroud to use. One trick is to use a piece of copper wire to space the set of deadeyes, then attach your shrouds to the upper deadeyes. Then you can reeve the lanyards with some assurance the deadeye set will all look shipshape and Bristol fashion. It'll likely take some experimentation to get it looking the way you want :-)

Post #14 here shows black buttons as deadeyes with lanyards to tension the backstays.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1096365
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Old Dec 27, 2011, 10:27 PM
Dragon Slayer
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Shelton,WA
Joined Nov 2004
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Brooks:

Thank you, that was most informative, those that fallow this thread can learn from this.

I have made some deadeyes from some iron wood that I have, quite hard to work with but it doe's work here are some pic's, I used a 2.5 lb. babbit inget to test the streght,
I used carpet thread between the deadeyes, I'm useing 24 gauge galvanized steel wire for the tiedowns on the hull bands, witch go bellow the water line on the Wawona, I'm useing IGFA black Dacron for my main lines it's 130 pound test, witch you can get at www.theanglersconnection.com. With 10 on each mast 5 each side, I don't think I will have a problem with this setup.
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Old Dec 28, 2011, 10:10 AM
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Bozeman, Montana, United States
Joined Aug 2003
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Your deadeyes look very nice. On the ships upon which I've sailed, the deadeyes are tarred. The dark brown pine tar oxidizes to black, making the shroud (also tarred) black as well. The lanyard is tarred too. The tar makes the lanyard stiffer, which makes it harder to adjust the tension of the rigging, but the preservative effect (back in the days of natural fiber cordage) was considered more important.

Pine tar is still available. I got a sample tin from a distributor for free. The tar has a distinctive smell that I associate with ships, very nice for triggering memories. I tarred some hand-spurn hemp shroud material as a test for a model. It looks good, and smells great. The aroma is penetrating, though, so I did not end up tarring my models' rigging. I was afraid that when they were stored indoors, the rest of the room would take on the tar smell, which would become overpowering in the indoors environment :-). The tar also remains somewhat sticky (that's why it's used on the handle of baseball bats). It'd get over everything it touched, eventually, I felt. My foul weather gear is streaked with tar from my voyages; one professional member of the HMBark Endeavour's crew had a yellow slicker that was entirely medium brown color due to repeated contact with the rigging :-)
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Old Dec 28, 2011, 01:43 PM
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The tar has a distinctive smell that I associate with ships, very nice for triggering memories...
That's neat! Maybe just a drop somwhere on the model- not too much just to give it that smell?
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Old Dec 28, 2011, 02:58 PM
Dragon Slayer
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Shelton,WA
Joined Nov 2004
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Made 100 deadeyes last night, still need to drill them.
I went with mohagany insted of iron wood, it works just as well, but much easer to work with.
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Old Dec 29, 2011, 01:15 AM
Sea Dragon-Lover
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PDX, OR
Joined Dec 2002
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Wow, you should rig my ship....

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Old Dec 29, 2011, 11:36 AM
Dragon Slayer
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Shelton,WA
Joined Nov 2004
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OK UMI:
AAAH what ship is that?
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