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Old Sep 24, 2011, 11:12 PM
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Scaling Plans

Given this thread is about scale model detail, I have a more fundamental issue of scale. I have a set of plans for a pilot cutter and I am wondering the best way to scale the plans up to make templates for frames etc. I have access to laser cutting and want to make the frames templates as true as possible. The actual vessel is 44 feet long and I am planning to make the model 44 inches long (1 foot = 1 inch). The plans are way smaller than a one-for-one match with the 44 inches (plan views on A4 sheets) and it occurs to me scaling up the shape of the frames is going to need to be accurate to preserve the ships lines. Can anyone point me in the right direction to take the plans to actual template size for frames etc.

Rakiura
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Old Sep 25, 2011, 12:31 PM
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Enlarge on a good copier. I've found that enlargements and reductions both can be pretty good at maintaining true dimensions.
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Old Oct 01, 2011, 12:52 AM
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I did try that but because of the scale I have selected even A3 size does not fit the cross section width of the frames. A3 is the largest paper size the copier can handle. I'm seeking other ideas where to start...
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Old Oct 03, 2011, 12:37 PM
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rak
Right - I understand the size limitations.

Try drawing some reference points on the original. Then enlarge it, making as many copies as necessary to cover the full area in the enlargemens. Then trim the enlarged pages and use a gluestick to assemble the page sections to make the complete enlarged pattern, lined up using the reference points you drew.

"Cut and paste" works really well to make single, large templates/patterns.
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 03:54 PM
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It pays to share with the family on hobby matters!! My son has a CAD package whereby he can trace over an imported picture of the plans. Apparently he can then upscale to maintain the relationship between the frames to fit the size I want. It justs squeaks in using A3 in landscape. It's the height deck to keel at the deepest frame, and not the beam, that's the tightest fit. But I understand your suggestion. I was being lazy looking for a quick scaling method. The CAD method is quite laborious so he tells me. Making enough reference points on each frame to maintain the true shape. But he believes it will be near 100% true to the plan image. I'd tried using DelftShip but the learning curve to use it was frustrating and I gave that idea up.

Thanks for your suggestion.
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Old Jan 11, 2012, 11:11 AM
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I've actually rescaled and printed drawing from MS Paint. When you print from Paint it automatically tiles the image onto multiple pages - I can't even get Paint Shop Pro to do that!
The other option is to output the rescaled drawing to a PDF. The free reader doesn't do it, but there are other PDF readers that will tile large drawings onto multiple sheets.

If it really comes down to it - for the cost of shipping, I'll print it on my plotter for you.
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Old Sep 29, 2013, 02:28 PM
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America's new navy had no officially sanctioned form for identifying ships with a prefix, such as the British use of H.M.S. for "His Majesty's Ship." Instead, a wide variety of prefixes were used in correspondence and documents.

Ships were often identified by their type, such as “U.S. Frigate” by their rig, such as “United States Barque” by their function such as “United States Flag-Ship” or they might just identify themselves as "the Frigate" or "Ship." “United States Ship” was used about as often as the others, as was "United States Ships" when referring to multiple vessels.

As the 19th century wound down, the term “United States Ship” grew in usage, though new terms were also in use; like: “U.S. Screw Frigate” or “U.S. Ironclad.”

President Theodore Roosevelt issued an executive order in 1907 that officially established the present usage:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Executive Order 549, 8 January 1907
In order that there shall be uniformity in the matter of designating naval vessels, it is hereby directed that the official designation of vessels of war, and other vessels of the Navy of the United States, shall be the name of such vessel, preceded by the words, United States Ship, or the letters U.S.S., and by no other words or letters.
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Old Apr 16, 2014, 05:43 PM
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Dan, somewhere I saw a post by you that gave a reference to a graphic service, but I'll be danged if I can find it again. If you could pleeze pass it on again………….
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Old Apr 17, 2014, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beneteau3 View Post
Dan, somewhere I saw a post by you that gave a reference to a graphic service, but I'll be danged if I can find it again. If you could pleeze pass it on again………….
Hey Don, good morning.
It's called Bedlam Creations. They make all sorts of decals. I think you need to send them a drawing, but maybe they can do the graphics too. Call them. The guy is really helpful.
http://www.bedlamcreations.com/index2.htm

Hope this is what you referred to.
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Old Apr 17, 2014, 11:55 AM
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Yup, thanks Dan. Got snow? Bill Uhl was on the pond last weekend pushing icebergs around.
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Old Oct 17, 2014, 09:35 AM
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Self-Tending Bowlines

Square riggers more often than not, has a set of lines attached to either leech of each square sail called bowlines (bow-linz). Basically a set of slings controlled by a line leading forward. The knot used to attach this rig is the bowline knot we all know, or ought to know, and why it has that name.
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Bowlines pull the windward edge of the sail forward when sailing on the wind (close-hauled) to keel the edge from getting back-winded and backing the sail entirely.

On a model square rigger, bowlines not only add to the scale appearance, but improve the model's performance. What's more, they can be added without requiring a radio channel, servo, or any real mechanics to speak of.

The sling portion of the bowlines attached to the sail's leech, commonly known as "crows feet," are a sort of telescoping set of lines with open eyes to allow the sling to self-adjust in order to pull evenly. Sails were made with grommets along the leech specifically for attaching bowlines, usually on it's lower half.
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Blowlines normally lead forward to a block and then down to be belayed on deck. On the model, lead the bowline from the block back to the sail's yard on the side opposite the bowline; ie the port bowline leads to the starboard end of the yard.
Adjust the bowlines so they are only just slack when the yards are squared.
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The bowline can be attached to it's own yard, or the yard below, whichever seems to work and/or look better for you. You should use light strong lines for bowlines. On a real ship the line would be as small as a 1/2" diameter.

The blocks you run the bowlines to should allow very easy movement through them and should be sheaved, made of glass beads, Delrin, or something slippery. Where they mount depends on how scale you want your boat. They typically mount to cross-trees, under tops, on mast caps, but always forward, and generally lower than where they attach to the sail.

You didn't typically find bowlines on split sails, like double-tops'ls, or on sails above the t'gallants - though there are always exceptions, and you can make your own exceptions, of course.
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