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Old May 26, 2011, 07:56 AM
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It must have been moving with that setup too..
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Old May 26, 2011, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ridge_racer View Post
Has anyone tried a 4s 1800 with the Turnigy 2836-2350 on a 6 x 4 prop?

Hey thx Pete...Join the club and get a SkyFun too..I just wish the USA warehouse sold just the barebones kits without electrics...

Ian
Sure have. It screams. I usually, fly with the 3s but the 4s works fine.

I don't have video but here is a great one:
The 4s comes in around 5:20
HobbyKing - SkyFun ARF Pusher Jet (8 min 19 sec)
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Old May 26, 2011, 09:16 AM
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Nice Rich...thx...
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Old May 27, 2011, 12:30 PM
Heli and E-Plane
United States, FL, Ocala
Joined Nov 2010
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I received my new SkyFun today and had some questions.

Overall I'm very pleased with the kit and there was no shipping damage.

The first thing I noticed was two of the plastic clips in the fuse that hold the cover were not glued well and were just sitting the the compartment. The fuse cover seems to be warped, if I press on the front or back the opposite end pops up, is there a way to fix this?

I also noticed the ESC is 25 Amps which was a pleasant surprise. It was not sitting straight so I had to pull it off and re-attach it so the wires sit in the channel.

What is the best glue to use besides the supplied stuff which I'm not too keen on using?

This is my first foam kit and was looking for some suggestions/tips on assembly and would appreciate any input...

Thanks a lot!
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Old May 27, 2011, 01:15 PM
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Awesome! You'll enjoy it once you get it fixed up!
The hatch clips are pretty bad. On mine, the front one arrived shattered. I removed it completely and glued a small bit of bamboo skewer into the front of the hatch frame and made a small hole for it to mate in the front of the hatch opening.
I then added two small steel wide head screws flush in the hatch opening and two mating very high strength magnets to the hatch itself. I also kept the two original rear clips.
It takes substantial effort to lift the rear of the hatch and it can't open at the front until the rear is lifted clear.
You may have to remove your clear canopy from the foam hatch frame and then reglue with less bending stress if the whole thing doesn't straighten out on its own now that the box is open. Also check the clip areas, they may be misaligned and binding on any remaining debris.
My clear canopy wasn't even attached at the front. I used hot glue to reattach and that was been fine.
Mine also came with a 25amp ESC, but I never flew with it. The motor bearings were bad, and the stock propeller was mounted on the shaft without an insert and was way off center.
Plus the stock ESC plays annoying music and is soldered directly to the motor wires.
Check your stock prop, and fly it stock if you think all is good, but I'm sure you'll add something better to it eventually.

I used good 5 minute epoxy from my LHS, but some people like using hot glue.
For epoxy, I mixed a separate small batch for each of the 4 parts (wings, fins) as a separate step.
5 minutes isn't much time to glue each of those as separate operations, especially the larger wing joints.
I've had no trouble with the glue, but I've also added a fair amount of clear packing tape to all underside seams. I also add CF rods to the slots. It's pretty stiff for still being so light weight.
Also check the hinge tape. Mine was terrible and had to be redone. I used 1-inch wide Blenderm and it has held just fine at the lower speeds that I fly at.
I did use hot glue on the servo protectors, since they really don't sit flush and needed some very thick glue. They've held strong with just the front half of each hot glued to the wing, with the rear half acting like a spring since the protectors are flat and the wing surface is curved.
The hot glue holding the battery velcro was barely attached. I replaced it completely with my own velcro squares.
Check the servos for any signs of jitter. They don't have a good reputation, but mine have been ok so far.
Check the motor mount screws. One of mine was missing and the other was loose. I had to find a replacement screw and then loktite them both.
Finish up with some tape along all contact areas of the nose and underbelly, as well as high-vis adhesive tape LARGE stripes or patterns.
Setup up your radio for elevons and make sure all is well with this and your particular receiver. It took alot of experimentation to get all functions correct, including having to hook the servos to the receiver the opposite of what the DX6i manual said. At the club field, it's fairly easy to buddy box with another DX6i, but we've tried in vain to match up any other Spectrum or JR radio to function correctly as the trainer box.

Add some ventilation holes too for your battery, but don't go overboard with large openings that will cause drag or blow your canopy out.

Hand launch it carefully with regard to the propeller!
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Old May 27, 2011, 03:26 PM
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Not much else to add. I used hot glue vs 5 min epoxy.
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Old May 27, 2011, 04:25 PM
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I did forget to mention that 3 out of 4 servo mounting screws had stripped the holes in their frames. They would have surely fallen out, causing a crash during the first flight if I hadn't tested and then CA'd them tight again during prep work.
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Old May 27, 2011, 04:35 PM
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Could anyone please post some weight data? Bare fuselage with finns and elevons but without electronics, motor and servos would be perfect!
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Old May 27, 2011, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Arcteryxxx View Post
Could anyone please post some weight data? Bare fuselage with finns and elevons but without electronics, motor and servos would be perfect!
300 grams. Mine with everything for 100 MPH flight weighs 505 grams.

Here is info on the bare plane:



http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16337
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Old May 27, 2011, 05:16 PM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
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Originally Posted by Rich in ILM View Post
300 grams. Mine with everything for 100 MPH flight weighs 505 grams.

Here is info on the bare plane:



http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16337
200 grams for esc , rx, servos, motor, prop AND battery and you achieve 100mph? Please tell me more...
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Old May 27, 2011, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Arcteryxxx View Post
200 grams for esc , rx, servos, motor, prop AND battery and you achieve 100mph? Please tell me more...
Woops sorry I did the conversion in my head and I my head is very old! How about 24 ounces = 680 grams. 4s 1800 LiPo 40 amp (not 60 amp) ESC. HK orange receiver, and this motor:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/93a16-09-motor2600kv.html
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Old May 27, 2011, 08:28 PM
Heli and E-Plane
United States, FL, Ocala
Joined Nov 2010
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Thank you very much for the info Soundguy!

Thanks Ridge_racer!

I don't know what kind of glue they used when assembling these planes but everything just popped off - plastic clips, canopy shield, even the piece of loop material for the battery came off!

The servos are very secure but I did epoxy the horns and re-attached the screws and plate. The horns were so far off the control rod linkage was binding on them, so I set them perpendicular to the servo horns.

Soundguy you were right on about the canopy being warped by the shield, it came off without any effort, I used 3 pairs of 5/16" rare earth magnets and the foam canopy is now very secure and straight.

I haven't glued the wings on yet, but all the electronics are in but not yet secured, I should be finished tomorrow.

We had a very bad storm today and lost power for a while.

All in all, I'm very pleased with the kit!

Thanks guys for your help!
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Old May 27, 2011, 09:24 PM
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Glad we could help, that's been a great part of this community. Especially when many of these planes come with no instructions for assembly. Mine came with no paperwork at all.

I should have also mentioned about leaving the servo protectors off until the very last step, after you've powered up the receiver and confirmed the servo arms are centered correctly and you have plenty of trim on each side.
You can still adjust the clevis clips several turns without running out of pushrod after the servo protectors are glued on, but it would be much more difficult at that point to access the arms and arm screws.
If you have any doubts about the clevis clips, I'd replace those too. I was careful with mine when adjusting and they still seem strong enough.

@Rich, I've ordered that motor you suggested and a 40A ESC. That other high-KV motor and ESC I bought earlier are going to a different kit.
Until then, I am going to try dropping from an 8x5 to a 7x6 on the motor I've been using.

On a side note, I saw a model today online called the "Thunderbird". It was very similar to the SkyFun except the fins leaned outward and it was powered by an EDF that sits partially embedded in the rear deck.

Hobby Lobby sells it:
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/thunderbird.htm
but I spotted it earlier for less money on a different site but I didn't know anything about this other vendor.
Anyone else seen this model or bought one?
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Old May 27, 2011, 09:55 PM
Heli and E-Plane
United States, FL, Ocala
Joined Nov 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundguy63 View Post
Glad we could help, that's been a great part of this community. Especially when many of these planes come with no instructions for assembly. Mine came with no paperwork at all.

I should have also mentioned about leaving the servo protectors off until the very last step, after you've powered up the receiver and confirmed the servo arms are centered correctly and you have plenty of trim on each side.
You can still adjust the clevis clips several turns without running out of pushrod after the servo protectors are glued on, but it would be much more difficult at that point to access the arms and arm screws.
If you have any doubts about the clevis clips, I'd replace those too. I was careful with mine when adjusting and they still seem strong enough.

@Rich, I've ordered that motor you suggested and a 40A ESC. That other high-KV motor and ESC I bought earlier are going to a different kit.
Until then, I am going to try dropping from an 8x5 to a 7x6 on the motor I've been using.

On a side note, I saw a model today online called the "Thunderbird". It was very similar to the SkyFun except the fins leaned outward and it was powered by an EDF that sits partially embedded in the rear deck.

Hobby Lobby sells it:
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/thunderbird.htm
but I spotted it earlier for less money on a different site but I didn't know anything about this other vendor.
Anyone else seen this model or bought one?
That model looks similar to HK's Jetiger which is slightly bigger WS = 32.3"
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=10358

I also got the same motor and 40 ESC that Rich suggested but I want to try stock first before switching it out.

As far as the servos I use an inexpensive Turnigy servo tester which has a centering feature which is very useful, I'll put the servo covers on when everything is set up, thanks for the heads up!
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Old May 28, 2011, 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jer291113 View Post
Thank you very much for the info Soundguy!

I haven't glued the wings on yet, but all the electronics are in but not yet secured, I should be finished tomorrow.

We had a very bad storm today and lost power for a while.

All in all, I'm very pleased with the kit!

Thanks guys for your help!
The servo protectors are very tight fit so make sure you center the peak of the "roof" over the outer part of the arm where it attaches to the control rod and not over the center of the servo. Move the arm to full travel, each way, and you will see where the highest part of the arch ("roof) needs to be. It is further forward and more offset than you would think. I hot glue mine but not all the way around to the full back. They do stay put as I have many landings on all 3 planes.
Just a general warning. Make sure you get plenty of time with a 3 cell before you go to 4. You will see why. Also I have had only a few flights with a 4 cell and the ESC seemed fine as did the motor but I go 10 seconds on full throttle and then a long glide and back to full throttle.
Finally, the plane comes stock with the motor running "backwards" (clockwise is backwards in the RC world) I kept the new engines running clockwise as you don't have to use pusher props. Just make sure the prop nut is very very tight. Also make sure the printing on the prop is facing towards the direction of flight. (This is true no matter where the engine is on a plane) The plane will fly with prop reversed but with much less efficency.

Final final (maybe). If you are foing to fly stuff with this much RPM you need a good prop balancer. It's random if a purcahsed prop is going to be balanced and the unbalanced ones sound bad while heating the engine more. Since I bought one I haven't seen a prop that didn't need some balancing. It's very cheap way to get better flights and dramatically extend the life of your engine bearings.
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