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Old Dec 16, 2009, 08:07 AM
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1968 Miss Bardahl (1:10 scratch build)

Ok...the cat is out...I'm building my 1st boat from nothing but plans and the help I get from you, and I'm going to need a lot of it.

This build is the result of one of our club members (Scooter) starting a Dumas Miss Unlimited build. After I ordered one to build, I decided I really wanted to try my 1st scratch build and do something in scale with the Miss Unlimited but different. After looking at all the options out there I decided I really like the looks of the 1968 Miss Bardahl the most...so here we are.

So far I have the plans (Newton Marine) and got them downsized from 1:8 to 1:10. Most of my wood is arriving today. I had to expand my shipyard to accomodate this 36" build and buy a few new tools like a scroll saw and belt/disk sander. I have the saw and rough cut my first piece on it (1/4" transom) last night. The sander is supposed to arrive for pickup today.

Attached are some pics of the boat I'm hoping to scale after. I will take some pics of the ship yard tonight.
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Old Dec 16, 2009, 08:27 AM
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That's one of my favorite paint jobs... I wanted to do an Atlas Van Lines in these....Easier to paint than it looks...
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Old Dec 16, 2009, 08:31 AM
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David Newton is the man with the plans. He and his now passed father, Roger, drew them up for this and a whole lot of other boats. David seems very nice and quickly replaced a couple of sheets that arrived with the edges rolled over when copied, cutting off some of the drawings.

I posted the following question over at Rumrunner but wanted to do the build thread here so:

My big question today is this:

When I laid Sheet 2 (3 view layout) over sheet 1 (paint scheme) I noticed none of the drawings are in exact scale with each other, not even the ones on the same page. Example the LOA side view drawing on the 3 view layout is 36" (this sounds right) but the bottom view drawing is 36 1/2". On the paint view sheet, the side view is 36 1/2" and the top view is 36 1/4".

Is this normal? Do I just go by the pieces I cut on the bulkheads sheet and use the other sheets as a guesstimate of how they go together?
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Old Dec 16, 2009, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by CornelP View Post
Easier to paint than it looks...
Good....I'm going to be asking for help in that area too. I know there are decal sheets available for this but we will get to that when the time comes.
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Old Dec 16, 2009, 10:44 AM
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Well, paint view sheet could be just informative, so not too much care about scale. The other views would worry me a bit... is it possible to get a copy in autocad or something? You could then print it properly.
If the original drawings were printed on a laser printer or photocopied, there is no way you will get the same scale on two pages (unless you have an expensive professional printer). Best bet is to print on an old fashioned plotter with pens, most centers will have them.
If the file cannot be obtained, just use as base the plan where you have the bulkheads, etc and guesstimate the rest. Just pick the one with the most info...
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Old Dec 16, 2009, 11:11 AM
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I go by the bulkhead sheet as the primary source for everything - and just use the other sheets as a hint on how they go together.
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Old Dec 16, 2009, 11:54 AM
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I go by the bulkhead sheet as the primary source for everything - and just use the other sheets as a hint on how they go together.
So what I got is not unusual? Makes it even more challenging for a newbie.

I decided to do a parallel build thread at Rumrunners after some severe arm twisting. A lot of the experts hang there so it should attract some really great advise too. Here is the link:

http://www.rumrunnerracing.com/fefor...ad.php?t=29780

I being a newbie at most of this need to know what some of the basic terms mean and found this to be most useful:

http://www.lesliefield.com/odds_n_en...ical_terms.htm

Do I need to make changes to the sponson bulkheads NOW to accomodate the change in angle of attack from the desired 1:8 scale of 3 degrees, to the desired 1:10 scale of 6 degrees or is that done later in the construction by adding shims to the sponson bottoms?
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Old Dec 16, 2009, 12:01 PM
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I think it might be somewhat unusual. I checked my 7-11 plans and they are pretty darn close between all three views. I just never checked them before since I pretty much build everything from the bulkheads. For sheeting, building hatches and so forth I combine the plans with measurements off the boat itself since I don't know that I ever build it perfectly.
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Old Dec 16, 2009, 03:16 PM
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Just wanted to show this pic of the Bardahl, one of my favorites from back in the day.
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Old Dec 17, 2009, 07:43 AM
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Thanks Cyber.

Painless...that is a great shot!

I got my supplies and sander in last night. Here are some pics of my new set up. I still don't know what adjustments to make to my bulkheads before I cut them. I'm going to have to do some more research.
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Old Dec 17, 2009, 09:29 AM
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That belt sander will produce an incredible amount of dust. I hope your not going to use it in that room. I don't even like to use mine in the garage. I have it bolted to a metal milk crate and use it outside, weather permitting.
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Old Dec 17, 2009, 09:35 AM
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What do you mean by adjustments? Other than tapering the edge...
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Old Dec 17, 2009, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by PAINLESS3 View Post
That belt sander will produce an incredible amount of dust. I hope your not going to use it in that room. I don't even like to use mine in the garage. I have it bolted to a metal milk crate and use it outside, weather permitting.
Gee I don't plan on using it that much! I can attach the shop vac (under the saw in pic) to it for the disk and if I have to, carry it to the front porch like I do for the hand held belt sander.
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Old Dec 17, 2009, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by CornelP View Post
What do you mean by adjustments? Other than tapering the edge...
I'm getting conflicting info (in the Rumrunner thread) about the best sponson angle and dihedral. Right now I don't know what they need to be. The 1:8 plans call for 3 1/2 degrees for both. I'm reading that the 1:10 boat likes 6 degrees in the sponson angle but it's also been suggested that 3 degrees is the ticket.

I believe the 1:8 plans were designed around a gas boat. Perhaps the 1:8 plans will over build a 1:10 electric in wood dimensions and perhaps the 1:10 boat runs wetter (more bow down) than the 1:8 boat at the same 3 1/2 degree angle of attack. Also the straight shaft vs flex, with part of the prop under the hull, rules would seem to make the boat want to run wetter, at least in my mind. So maybe it needs more fore/aft angle on the sponsons to free them up.

I need to settle this before I can even get started. Could I do the 3 degrees and change it later if needed by adding to the skid pads?
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Old Dec 17, 2009, 11:27 AM
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The 1/10 scale plans I have for the 69 u-7 Notre Dame show 4 degrees angle of attack, 6 seems like a lot. Dihedral is 3 on the ride pads and 6 on the remaining sponson bottom.

A flex set up will give you more trimming options, that and fore and aft cg will determine if the boat runs wet or loose not the sponson angle.

Are you going to compete using somebodies rules? Typically they want the drive dog under the transom, meaning when viewed from above you can't see it. Sport 40 rules are like that, or use to be.
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