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Old Dec 14, 2009, 06:58 PM
0.9g retracts
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3" from insanity, 2' from the computer ,Richford, Tioga county, Southern Tier, New York, U.S., North American Continent, Northern hemisphere, Earth, The Sol System, Milkyway Galaxy, The Universe, The Current Dimension, Your Selected Realm of Reality.
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Clipper ship pond sailer.

Well, after looking at Brooks' and MeatBomber's square riggers and realy thinking it though to the point where a materials list is made, I'm going to give it a go and try to build a 4 channel roughly 3 foot pondsailer-scale clipper ship. The hull will be laminated 1/4thick balsa sheet, just like how MeatBomber built his 'Somers' brig-of-war. I'm not building a particular clipper per-se, but a stylized model of what they are in my mind; as such it is going to be more of a pond sailer than a full blown scale model, no ships wheel, little figures, railings, or anything like that. I'm going to TRY to replicate the full rigging job as best I can.

Now on to the specs:
LOA: 2.992 feet (912mm)
Beam: 6" (152mm)
Draft: ~3" (~76mm)
Displacement: 8 pounds (3.63Kg) (that's what Delfship is saying anyway)
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Last edited by Yellow Baron; Jun 21, 2010 at 11:49 AM. Reason: Added pics
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Old Dec 15, 2009, 06:20 AM
Square-rigger
meatbomber's Avatar
Klatovy, Czech Republic
Joined Mar 2004
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great On a lesson learned note, i went only up to the deck line with my laminations, not a good idea i had to build teh bullwarks up later on which was a major PITA so get teh whole shape stacked up and hog it out before you glue and your ship will be a lot smoother than mine

mind attaching teh delfship mopdel in your thread?
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Old Dec 15, 2009, 09:22 PM
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YB, that will be neat. Depending on what you are trying to achieve, you might consider my experience: I found that the more closely I duplicated the rig of a real ship (spar lengths, spar positions on their masts, shape of fore&aft sails, etc.), the better my models looked. In fact, whenever I took a shortcut and just winged-it, I ended up with something less realistic looking :-).
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Old Dec 16, 2009, 10:15 AM
0.9g retracts
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3" from insanity, 2' from the computer ,Richford, Tioga county, Southern Tier, New York, U.S., North American Continent, Northern hemisphere, Earth, The Sol System, Milkyway Galaxy, The Universe, The Current Dimension, Your Selected Realm of Reality.
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MB, point noted, thanks I attached the pics of the model.

Brooks, that's the plan .
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Old Dec 16, 2009, 10:20 AM
Square-rigger
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Klatovy, Czech Republic
Joined Mar 2004
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Great model Fred

i`ve not yet succeded to make it the way you do mate i`m always taking the generic hull and then modify it till the lines lookabout the same as in the lines plan of the template. How`d you get it to work with one control line and then added all the points singly?
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Old Dec 16, 2009, 12:00 PM
no wings any more, just dust!
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stoke on trent
Joined Oct 2004
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if the scale sail section comes alive, get the build log going there
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Old Dec 16, 2009, 06:26 PM
0.9g retracts
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3" from insanity, 2' from the computer ,Richford, Tioga county, Southern Tier, New York, U.S., North American Continent, Northern hemisphere, Earth, The Sol System, Milkyway Galaxy, The Universe, The Current Dimension, Your Selected Realm of Reality.
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Sorry MB, you've lost me there (control line??) . What I did was open a new model, punch in the length (3 feet), draft (0.25 feet if I remember correctly), the beam (.5 feet), verticle points (5, to start), and finaly horrizontal points (15; each end, plus the 13 crossections on the drawing). I roughed out the shape with those points; then used the 'Sub-Divide Control Net' feature and refined the shape with those, repeating untill I was happy with the 3D model.

Ghost, will do

On a side note (only Delftship related), I'm going to try tonight to render a Sikorski S-69 helicopter fuselage for my little coax (hmm, clipper ship with a helipad...), should be interesting at least to see how complex of a shape the program can do.

Here's some pics of various clippers underway (and my sailplan):
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Last edited by Yellow Baron; Dec 17, 2009 at 11:09 AM.
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Old Dec 16, 2009, 08:45 PM
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The Flying Cloud has a beautiful sailplan, plus was a very famous clipper. The big, deep topsails show she was a ship of the 1850's; later ships, eg. the tea clippers (Cutty Sark), split the topsail to make handling easier. I like the big topsail :-)
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Old Dec 17, 2009, 11:05 AM
0.9g retracts
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3" from insanity, 2' from the computer ,Richford, Tioga county, Southern Tier, New York, U.S., North American Continent, Northern hemisphere, Earth, The Sol System, Milkyway Galaxy, The Universe, The Current Dimension, Your Selected Realm of Reality.
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I agree 100% Brooks . The only thing I think I'll change with that plan is the jibs, space them out verticaly a little more.
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Old Dec 17, 2009, 11:34 AM
0.9g retracts
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3" from insanity, 2' from the computer ,Richford, Tioga county, Southern Tier, New York, U.S., North American Continent, Northern hemisphere, Earth, The Sol System, Milkyway Galaxy, The Universe, The Current Dimension, Your Selected Realm of Reality.
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I'm going to try to recess the deck by about a quater inch (6.35mm) at the lowest point along the top line of the hull, any thoughts as to how to do this? I'm going to layer the balsa from the bottom up to give it that planked look (I'm going to stain, not paint, the hull), that that sould only complicate things by about 200%
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Old Dec 19, 2009, 03:17 PM
0.9g retracts
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3" from insanity, 2' from the computer ,Richford, Tioga county, Southern Tier, New York, U.S., North American Continent, Northern hemisphere, Earth, The Sol System, Milkyway Galaxy, The Universe, The Current Dimension, Your Selected Realm of Reality.
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Quick update: I think I've got my hull colors figured out (once again borrowing from the J-class yachts). The dark blue is just that DARK, I mean nearly black when you look at it. Once I have the parts for the hull (hopefuly Santa will be so kind ), I think I will go and get some wood stain custom mixed for me .
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Last edited by Yellow Baron; Dec 20, 2009 at 08:05 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2009, 07:53 PM
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For your deck, you could always just add a deck support rail after you carve out the hull. John did that for his Berbice hull. If you are using balsa, she will be light enough that you could also just leave her thick under the point you want the deck to rest, making an integral rail. I did that with Aldebaran, but the heavy wood and extra thickness from bilge to the rail made the hull heavier than desired.
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Old Dec 20, 2009, 04:52 AM
Square-rigger
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Klatovy, Czech Republic
Joined Mar 2004
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Ah and fred study carefully Brookses layout of his servo and the distance of them from the masts... i carelessly thought i could space them further to prevent overlaps and now i`m having troubles routing the braces as the area i`d like to have the braces run to are getting overlapped by the other brace servo arm! At least for my fore braces its like that... so a bit closer together and further away from the masts would have been better... staggered in high so as to have some room between your arms and you can fit a disk that covers the servo arm over the lower servo.. i thought i had it right until now when i`m triying to actually fit the lines

The deep clipper fuse should help you in these aspects.
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Old Dec 20, 2009, 08:58 PM
0.9g retracts
Yellow Baron's Avatar
3" from insanity, 2' from the computer ,Richford, Tioga county, Southern Tier, New York, U.S., North American Continent, Northern hemisphere, Earth, The Sol System, Milkyway Galaxy, The Universe, The Current Dimension, Your Selected Realm of Reality.
Joined Dec 2006
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Brooks,
correct me if I'm mistaken; basicly take a bit of balsa and glue it to the deck along the perimeter?

MB, sounds like you got your self in abit of a pickle . I'll try to remember to keep everything from messing everything else up.
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Old Dec 21, 2009, 03:50 AM
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The balsa or basswood strip, say 1/4" square, is glued to the hull, to make a support "rim" for the deck. The deck is then glued or screwed to the strip.
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