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Old Feb 20, 2012, 05:27 PM
Watt Waster
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HobbyCool.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by **neons** View Post
Azarr'
Look under Airplane/Linkage,Hinges,Horns,Pushrods. In the pull down menus.
http://www.hobbycool.com/airplane-ac...ds-c-4_10.html I do not know how is inventory is doing but he shows what he has in there. 500mm or 39 inches **Neons** Bob
I took a look at this source and ordered around 50 cf tubes. Mostly 3mm and 5mm. A few other odds and ends rounded out the order. Hopefully they have some stuff left over, lol, for the rest of you guys.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 05:56 PM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
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USA, MA, Swansea
Joined Mar 2003
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Got all my carbon in. They are as they advertise 500mm. It came in 10 days.
**Neons** Bob
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 03:46 PM
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Spent a bit of time to upgrade aircraft.
Put a new motor weighs 12 g.
Increased the elevator and rudder.
The wing was the front edge of the eight mm tubing.
Changed the shape of the fuselage.
Increased surface area of the model.
Make test prop 11x2
Model length increased to 1140 mm.
Weight 99 g.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 05:11 PM
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Hi Lantsov,

Can you explain why you made the changes?

Pros and cons of old design vs the new.

Thanks,

George
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 05:54 PM
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The new sequence has no spin.
I increased the front wing and increased back stabilizer.
Increased the rudder.
Everything done to level flight.
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 06:36 PM
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Hi,

The 8mm rod must be very thin like your 6 mm fuse tube?

Does the thickness of the 8mm LE provide some kind of flight performance?

Why did you cut off the duck?

You added 50 mm to the nose to be able to balance the plane or was it done for flight reasons?

Thanks,

George
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 10:04 PM
Playing with AutoCAD!
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Hello all,

Would anyone be so kind as to give me some information on how this mylar is colored? I am experimenting on mylar and some other thin plastics (produce bag material). I'm using acrylic paint through my airbrush and I get the results below (I know that it's not crinkled enough. Just a preliminary test.). It took about six coats to get to this point. How do you guys get such solid colors and separation?

Thanks,
Kody
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Old Mar 01, 2012, 10:58 PM
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Hi,

I use Createx opaque airbrush colors straight from the bottle. Just a couple of light passes works well.

George
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ampbomber View Post
Hi,

I use Createx opaque airbrush colors straight from the bottle. Just a couple of light passes works well.

George
Thanks! I guess that's the consensus.
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Old Mar 08, 2012, 07:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ampbomber View Post
Thanks. Something to keep me busy for a month or so.
Lantsov,

Well, originally I thought it would take a month but had my doubts.

Finished my Relax 2 this morning.

From the beginning I had no thought of having it come even close to 89 gm and I was right. I build CF frames heavy and building it in 3 pieces, covering , painting and then assembling it has it's good and bad points. RTF w/ battery it came out to 115 gms. The airframe w/o gear is a whopping 71.7 gm.

Will test fly next Tuesday and let you know how it goes.

BTW, I did make a PDF file of the drawings I used to construct the air frame so someone that may want to build it would have a starting point.

Thanks for all of your help with the project.

George
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Old Mar 08, 2012, 09:21 AM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
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USA, MA, Swansea
Joined Mar 2003
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Nice work George. I like the copy. I would also like to see any filming you do on your new model. I would also be interested in your drawings if released. I will not be able to make it now as I am in a big 3 month project build at this time. I think some time it would be nice to have a compomnent breakdown list of all the equipment you used to get it finished. By the time I get to make one you may have some alterations done. Thanks.
**Neons** Bob
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Old Mar 08, 2012, 11:32 AM
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A PDF to use as a starting point would be great!
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 04:42 AM
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Michigan
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Here is all the info I collected during my build of the Relax2.

Disclaimer:
All these plans were taken from pictures supplied by Lantsov and are only a close approxamation of his plane. Photos tend to distort images. Also, after Lantsov supplied the balance point for the plane, both measurements he gave do not match the drawings which may mean the wing is a little bit forward of where it should be.

The attached document has all the info on my build.

I didn't have time to clean up the side view PDFs but that should not pose a problem. Also, I have not printed out the PDFs to check how well they fit together. Let me know.

Good luck on your builds.

George
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 09:08 AM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
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George,
Great stuff. Close enough for the way I fly. (Sport). Where did you ever find the 0.6mm CF rods? Or,did you somehow split 0.1mm rods to get them?
Thank You for your gracious help and plans.
**Neons** Bob
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Old Mar 09, 2012, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by **neons** View Post
George,
Great stuff. Close enough for the way I fly. (Sport). Where did you ever find the 0.6mm CF rods? Or,did you somehow split 0.1mm rods to get them?
Thank You for your gracious help and plans.
**Neons** Bob
Thanks Bob.

.6 mm rods are avaiable from CST Sales but are expensive- like 2 to 3 $ a meter. I can't afford that so I came up with a way to make my own.

Now you want to know how to do it. Right?

It began this way. I had some 6 oz CF cloth and found that if I pulled each strand (called tow) out of the cloth I could take 3 strands, wet with epoxy and twist them to make .6mm (.030) rods. Using different number of strands would yield different diameter rods. The pictures atached show the process.

Since I ran out of the 6oz cloth I now use three strands of 3K tow to make the .6mm rods. The 3K tow is avaiable in rolls at CST Sales.

The process goes like this:

Make several groups of three strands of 3K tow.

Tie and CA each group to a paper clip to use as a hangar.

At the other end of each group CA a bambo skewer used to twist the group.

Wet out each group with epoxy. I use West System.

Tightly attach the paper clip end of each group to a mounting plate on the ceiling.

Twist all groups 50 turns and staple the bamboo skewer to the work bench.

Wipe down the twisted groups to remove excess epoxy- there will be a lot.

After all the groups have been twisted and wiped down go back and retighten all.

Let them cure for a day or two and then wet sand each rod with 320 grit to insure that the rods are clean for assembly. If you sand them before cutting them down it is much easier than after cutting them down.
Now you have some .6 mm rods. They are not perfect but work just as well as the expensive rods and the cost is much less.

Questions?

George
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