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Old Jan 17, 2013, 08:06 PM
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My RX is still coming down blinking. I have a total of 4 of them and all have problems in different planes. I tried switching them around to different planes.

This setup is 2 HXT900's and a plush10 amp with an 850 nano. Im told those HXT's are known to draw a lot. But the plush ESC has a 2A bec. Also other guys in this thread run the same setup.

My elevons are depron with tiny CA hinges. No binding at all.

So it sucks i cant figure out why my planes are all getting brownouts. People with tons of experience in a different thread think it could be inadequate BEC since the HXT's draw a lot and batteries can have flaws.

But im not sure. I always land with 3.8+ volts. Today i had the tester ready. Landed and tested within 5 seconds and the batt read 3.80. Took longer than normal to land that flight.

Still wonder if its my dx6i having problems. But im told the only way an OrangeRx to come down blinking is if there is a loss of power. My TX tripping out would not cause that...i guess?
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 01:03 AM
Must not buy more planes!
mclarkson's Avatar
USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
2,300 Posts
I looked at the three light Strykers I've built. Here's their setups:
  • KEDA “Blue Wonder”-style 24g 1300kV motor from StrongRC
  • KEDA 12 amp ESC from StrongRC
  • GWS 8043 slow fly propeller
  • Elevon mixer
  • 2x Towerpro 9g SG90 Servos
  • 450 mAh 3 cell LiPo batteries
  • HURC 2712-12 Outrunner
  • Emax Budget 10 Amp ESC
  • (2x) Emax ES08A 8 gram high-torque servos
  • GWS EP 8040 propeller
  • 800mAh 3S Lipos
  • TURNIGY Plush 10 amp 9 gram ESC
  • GWS EP 8040 propeller
  • 2712-12 1300kV brushless outrunner motor
  • HXT900 9g Servos
  • 800 mAh 3S LiPos
  • LED light strips, activated via a Turnigy radio-controlled switch. A total of 99 individual LED lights.

The last one's pretty similar to your setup, plus a RC switch and 99 LED lights. I've never had a problem with it.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 01:45 PM
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Wow i was behind over 20 pages in this thread. Read back last night. There were some awesome builds way to go everyone!!!

I learned a lot by reading and looking at pics. My goal was to make a "glider" light stryker for when the winds get insane here. Was gonna make it super extra light with a tiny underpowered motor only used to takeoffs and if i get into trouble. But mostly fly around with the motor shut down...i hope.

But im wondering if thats not gonna work. Will a 9oz stryker just get blown away? I have never flown any gliders. Any tips or ideas to make it work?

I have a 2S lipo and the powerUp180 motor on the way. It only makes 6oz thrust.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 04:02 PM
Must not buy more planes!
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USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
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Oh man, that's a tiny motor. I fly in insane winds all the time, but I have a bit more thrust than that. My only concern would be that the plane would so thoroughly fail to penetrate that it'll get blown backwards and you'd never see it again.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 05:35 PM
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Starting to think i have it wrong. Might work for playing in light winds with the motor off. For the strong stuff the glider would need tons of weight up front like a slope plane.
Will build it anyway and see how it goes. Can always switch out the motor and ESC.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 07:29 PM
Must not buy more planes!
mclarkson's Avatar
USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
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For me, the 0.9oz Blue Wonder motor, 10A ESC and 450-850mAh LiPo have proven to be 'the money.' I have no slopes here, but I'm convinced it'd be a sweet slope glider.
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Old Jan 18, 2013, 07:37 PM
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Dallas, Texas
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wopachop View Post
Wow i was behind over 20 pages in this thread. Read back last night. There were some awesome builds way to go everyone!!!

I learned a lot by reading and looking at pics. My goal was to make a "glider" light stryker for when the winds get insane here. Was gonna make it super extra light with a tiny underpowered motor only used to takeoffs and if i get into trouble. But mostly fly around with the motor shut down...i hope.

But im wondering if thats not gonna work. Will a 9oz stryker just get blown away? I have never flown any gliders. Any tips or ideas to make it work?

I have a 2S lipo and the powerUp180 motor on the way. It only makes 6oz thrust.
Sounds like you have a recipe for an 8oz, calm day or indoor stryker.
These do not carry enough energy to just glide around.
It never becomes a "glider" just by becoming light.
One can use the wind to sort of sail around and fly backwards at times, but it never really "cuts" through the wind.
I have flown in high winds with many strykers from 9oz and 2:1 thrust to weight, to a 4s stryker Q (32oz).
Check my posts.. BIG 3" lightweight elevons with low resistance hinges, etc..
You may get blown away if you do not have over 1:1 thrust in high winds.
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 12:27 PM
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OOOOoooooh yeah i saw your planes. Freakin amazing.
I understand what youre saying. There is a difference between
sailing around like a kite VS cutting through the wind and moving forward.

Thought i have seen "slope soaring wings" for sale. Wonder how those work.
I think earlier in this thread a guy posted a pic of his stryker he uses for
slope flying.

My current light stryker is 11.2 OZ using an 850nano. With the 2730 1500k turnigy. That plane is a blast. I covered the bottom with color package tape which looks really cool but added weight. Also did lots of intricate CF work. Made hinges and a door. So much time and effort being my first build ever. Im scared to crash that plane!!! I had a brownOut and loss reception. Plane landed into a tree and got mildly beat up. Finally fixed it and been flying again.

Its windy here and lots of little hills. I have wanted to try and slope them...but dont want to ruin my purdy package tape design. So always had the idea to build a beater light stryker. Nothing fancy. Was hoping to build it so light that i could zip around without using the motor.
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Old Jan 22, 2013, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeRx View Post
Sounds like you have a recipe for an 8oz, calm day or indoor stryker.
These do not carry enough energy to just glide around.
It never becomes a "glider" just by becoming light.
One can use the wind to sort of sail around and fly backwards at times, but it never really "cuts" through the wind.
I have flown in high winds with many strykers from 9oz and 2:1 thrust to weight, to a 4s stryker Q (32oz).
Check my posts.. BIG 3" lightweight elevons with low resistance hinges, etc..
You may get blown away if you do not have over 1:1 thrust in high winds.
I fly my light Stryker like a glider.

Being aerodynamic cuts through the wind. Remove the possible sources of drag (fake air inlets, stab ridges, use a folding prop, etc.).

You don't need 1:1 thrust in high winds. You need pitch speed. You want your pitch speed faster than the wind, even if it leaves you at less than 1:1 thrust, your low-drag plane should make it less of an issue.
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 03:18 PM
ICrashRCs
United States, TN, Memphis
Joined Jun 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoatZilla View Post
I fly my light Stryker like a glider.

Being aerodynamic cuts through the wind. Remove the possible sources of drag (fake air inlets, stab ridges, use a folding prop, etc.).

You don't need 1:1 thrust in high winds. You need pitch speed. You want your pitch speed faster than the wind, even if it leaves you at less than 1:1 thrust, your low-drag plane should make it less of an issue.
I'm curious about your folding prop setup if you don't mind sharing.
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Old Jan 23, 2013, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IFlyRCs View Post
I'm curious about your folding prop setup if you don't mind sharing.
This is one of my older configurations.



Graupner 6x3 on the back of a GWS 2205 with modified shaft.

Kapton tape is on the spinner as a backstop to prevent over-fold backwards.


Unfortunately, it looks like the Graupner 6x3 folding props and yokes are an endangered species, and I haven't found a suitable replacement for them. I've taken to 3d printing my own yokes, but the blades... all the other available folders in this range seem to be garbage.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 05:09 AM
ICrashRCs
United States, TN, Memphis
Joined Jun 2011
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Thank you, I don't know why someone doesn't come out with a line of reverse folders.
Seems like a natural good seller to me.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 08:14 AM
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Chester, UK
Joined May 2010
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Motor

(Graupner 6x3 on the back of a GWS 2205 with modified shaft.)

Hi

I am currently building a Stryker and I was going to fit a BW 1700 motor. Just wondering if there is a particular reason why you are using The GWS 2205 ?

Thanks
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IFlyRCs View Post
Thank you, I don't know why someone doesn't come out with a line of reverse folders.
Seems like a natural good seller to me.
Graupner did make a few; you can see them on their US distributor's site. They're just not very common. Search for "Graupner pushprop".

I have a very long rant about this, but the short version is more or less the entire industry has its head buried way up its glow exhaust.


Quote:
Originally Posted by geedee View Post
(Graupner 6x3 on the back of a GWS 2205 with modified shaft.)

Hi

I am currently building a Stryker and I was going to fit a BW 1700 motor. Just wondering if there is a particular reason why you are using The GWS 2205 ?

Thanks
I think a BW 1700 is just fine.

I was using a GWS 2205 because I simply had one available for modification (had to modify the shaft to step it down to 2.3mm). That was an old setup of mine; it's not what I use anymore. The most interesting thing about the GWS motor is the prop saver, which screws into the bell itself and doesn't hang out over the shaft like normal ones. It's actually one of the best designs I've seen, and you can pull an o-ring over a folding prop yoke just like a normal prop and it works great.
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Old Jan 25, 2013, 01:42 AM
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Chester, UK
Joined May 2010
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I think a BW 1700 is just fine.

I was using a GWS 2205 because I simply had one available for modification (had to modify the shaft to step it down to 2.3mm). That was an old setup of mine; it's not what I use anymore. The most interesting thing about the GWS motor is the prop saver, which screws into the bell itself and doesn't hang out over the shaft like normal ones. It's actually one of the best designs I've seen, and you can pull an o-ring over a folding prop yoke just like a normal prop and it works great.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the info.
Never really looked at a folding prop for the Stryker, although I can see the advantages.

BTW what did you use to strengthen the motor area ? I propose using a plastic hollow mount made for 8mm motors epoxied to the frame, similar to yours but was wondering as to the best method of strengthening the area around.
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