I tried pins once, but couldn't drill the holes in properly so gave it up as a bad job.

Ok
Just for the Nay sayers!




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3 of: ParkZone Bare Fuselage (Unpainted): F27/B/C Stryker
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Originally Posted by mclarkson

I tried pins once, but couldn't drill the holes in properly so gave it up as a bad job.

Happen to me too, holes do not work in foam

Here is the method that works well for me on the Stryker..


Temporary tape the elevons in place, putting the tape opposite where the hinges will be.
Now simply press the hinges on the bottom side so they imprint the foam where to be cut.
Cut the imprint outlines about 2/3 of the total foam depth, then scrape out the foam.
Cut a little extra foam around the pivit point so nothing touches.
Trial fit.
Hot glue the elevon side first then wing by filling slot them pressing in hinge.

Hint.. it helps to do one hinge at a time, ensuring alignment while each cools.

Thanks. I'll think about giving it a try with the next one. I'm using balsa for the elevons, so that may work out a bit differently.

I've also sworn off hot glue completely, as I got tired of falling off my planes in the heat of summer.

Originally Posted by mclarkson

Thanks. I'll think about giving it a try with the next one. I'm using balsa for the elevons, so that may work out a bit differently.

I've also sworn off hot glue completely, as I got tired of falling off my planes in the heat of summer.

I just started using hot glue for the first time this year, and I love it. I've flown in 90+degree hot sunny weather and nothing fell off. Hot glue kicks butt compared to epoxy, any ca, rubber cement, or white gorilla glue... It may be weaker if you dont heat it up enough...

Well, when it gets to be 110+, parts start just falling off my plane. I'd love to use hot glue but I just can't trust it in the heat.

Originally Posted by mclarkson

Well, when it gets to be 110+, parts start just falling off my plane. I'd love to use hot glue but I just can't trust it in the heat.

Try "high temp" hot glue. It melts the foam a little bit before it cools, but it won't soften in the summer, even in the trunk of a car parked in the sunshine.

yea, mine melts the foam just a little bit, it makes a very good bond. I can hold the nose and swing the plane all over the place and its rock solid...

Alright... the 3D thing didn't work out very well so I've changed things up and mounted my new FPV gear on this one. It's a little heavy at 504 grams AUW, but it's packing two batteries the video transmitter and camera, etc.

I mounted the camera right behind the nose and then wound up shaving off the top of the nose to give me a clear view. I think I'm gonna try mounting one of my keychain cameras on the new nose.

Originally Posted by ssteven1

Since I am showing all my light stryker I have made. This is my 10 ounce styker powered by a park 250 with 35 watts. Proving you don't need a lot of power to fly these. It was a little under powered and the blue wonder has more range of flight.

wow 10oz how did you do that? what does the stryker frame weight no canpy just the main body.
cheers

i'll probably beat or come close to 10oz rtf WITH FPV gear and batteries, soon. Maybe I'll complete it today.
By Drilling holes into the airframe and reinforcing with very thin but strong tape.

bare airframe is about 150grams or 5.3oz. I will try to lower it by 2-3 oz hopefully.

The lighter you get it, the slower/more control at lower speeds you get. So flying between trees becomes very very easy. at 14oz AUW with battery and fpv gear it is awesome flying between/under around trees. imagine 10oz with high quality fpv gear. that will be INSANE!

Originally Posted by mclarkson

Alright... the 3D thing didn't work out very well so I've changed things up and mounted my new FPV gear on this one. It's a little heavy at 504 grams AUW, but it's packing two batteries the video transmitter and camera, etc.

I mounted the camera right behind the nose and then wound up shaving off the top of the nose to give me a clear view. I think I'm gonna try mounting one of my keychain cameras on the new nose.

I have two strykers now for FPV, a light stryker and a medium weight one. Have you already flown the stryker with the shaved nose? On my light stryker, I left the nose off completely. It gives me a better view of the ground. I'm concerned that with the nose in place you're having to aim the camera up a bit instead of down.

On mine, the wide angle lens I was using required me to actually shave into the front of the fuselage. Sure the nose of the plane is as aerodynamic as a brick, but it provides a clear view. Plus I've found that my light stryker tends to slow down very quickly, even when it had a nose due to the lack of momentum.

Also, why are you using two video batteries? Its really not that hard to get a single battery system working without interference. That makes it really easy to lose some weight by using just one battery, and its a lot more convenient only having to charge one batery.

swiss cheese stryker. lol just under 90grams as in pic...

now i will cover it all with black very thin, uline color coded packing tape....

changed my mind. I think I can make it look better and more visible for LOS if I use the tape just to cover the holes....