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Old Sep 04, 2012, 03:31 PM
Must not buy more planes!
mclarkson's Avatar
USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
2,289 Posts
I tried pins once, but couldn't drill the holes in properly so gave it up as a bad job.
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 10:53 PM
RISC - SCRCC - AMA member
bluzjamer's Avatar
United States, RI, Warwick
Joined Apr 2010
145 Posts
Ok
Just for the Nay sayers!




Final Details for Order #xxxxxxxxxx
Print this page for your records.

Order Placed: August 13, 2012
Amazon.com order number: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Seller's order number: xxxxxxxxx



Order Total: $38.31

Shipped on August 15, 2012


Items Ordered Price
3 of: ParkZone Bare Fuselage (Unpainted): F27/B/C Stryker
Condition: New
Sold by: Horizon Hobby (seller profile)
$18.99





Shipping Speed:
Standard
Item(s) Subtotal: $56.97
Shipping & Handling: $0.00
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Total Before Tax: $56.97
Sales Tax: $0.00
Rewards Points: $18.66
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Total for This Shipment: $38.31
Total paid by Rewards Points: $18.66
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Payment Information

Item(s) Subtotal: $56.97
Shipping & Handling: $0.00
-----
Total Before Tax: $56.97
Estimated Tax To Be Collected: $0.00
Rewards Points: $18.66
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Grand Total: $38.31

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Last edited by bluzjamer; Sep 22, 2012 at 12:05 AM.
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Old Sep 05, 2012, 06:50 AM
USA, NY, Brooklyn
Joined Jan 2002
1,831 Posts
you posted your order numbers and all.
please remove that post, we dont want them to fix the shipping!
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Old Sep 05, 2012, 12:56 PM
3D wing innovator
MikeRx's Avatar
Dallas, Texas
Joined Dec 2009
2,160 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
I tried pins once, but couldn't drill the holes in properly so gave it up as a bad job.
Happen to me too, holes do not work in foam

Here is the method that works well for me on the Stryker..


Temporary tape the elevons in place, putting the tape opposite where the hinges will be.
Now simply press the hinges on the bottom side so they imprint the foam where to be cut.
Cut the imprint outlines about 2/3 of the total foam depth, then scrape out the foam.
Cut a little extra foam around the pivit point so nothing touches.
Trial fit.
Hot glue the elevon side first then wing by filling slot them pressing in hinge.

Hint.. it helps to do one hinge at a time, ensuring alignment while each cools.
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Old Sep 05, 2012, 03:05 PM
Must not buy more planes!
mclarkson's Avatar
USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
2,289 Posts
Thanks. I'll think about giving it a try with the next one. I'm using balsa for the elevons, so that may work out a bit differently.

I've also sworn off hot glue completely, as I got tired of falling off my planes in the heat of summer.
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Old Sep 05, 2012, 03:11 PM
USA, NY, Brooklyn
Joined Jan 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
Thanks. I'll think about giving it a try with the next one. I'm using balsa for the elevons, so that may work out a bit differently.

I've also sworn off hot glue completely, as I got tired of falling off my planes in the heat of summer.
I just started using hot glue for the first time this year, and I love it. I've flown in 90+degree hot sunny weather and nothing fell off. Hot glue kicks butt compared to epoxy, any ca, rubber cement, or white gorilla glue... It may be weaker if you dont heat it up enough...
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Old Sep 05, 2012, 08:26 PM
Must not buy more planes!
mclarkson's Avatar
USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
2,289 Posts
Well, when it gets to be 110+, parts start just falling off my plane. I'd love to use hot glue but I just can't trust it in the heat.
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Old Sep 06, 2012, 09:13 PM
I'm overcoming gravity!
Murman's Avatar
USA, NC, Huntersville
Joined Jul 2008
3,846 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
Well, when it gets to be 110+, parts start just falling off my plane. I'd love to use hot glue but I just can't trust it in the heat.
Try "high temp" hot glue. It melts the foam a little bit before it cools, but it won't soften in the summer, even in the trunk of a car parked in the sunshine.
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Old Sep 07, 2012, 07:25 AM
USA, NY, Brooklyn
Joined Jan 2002
1,831 Posts
yea, mine melts the foam just a little bit, it makes a very good bond. I can hold the nose and swing the plane all over the place and its rock solid...
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 11:03 PM
Must not buy more planes!
mclarkson's Avatar
USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Jul 2010
2,289 Posts
Alright... the 3D thing didn't work out very well so I've changed things up and mounted my new FPV gear on this one. It's a little heavy at 504 grams AUW, but it's packing two batteries the video transmitter and camera, etc.

I mounted the camera right behind the nose and then wound up shaving off the top of the nose to give me a clear view. I think I'm gonna try mounting one of my keychain cameras on the new nose.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 08:42 AM
*GRAVITY* I hate it :(
Sparken57's Avatar
USA, CA, Downey
Joined Jan 2010
433 Posts
10oz

Quote:
Originally Posted by ssteven1 View Post
Since I am showing all my light stryker I have made. This is my 10 ounce styker powered by a park 250 with 35 watts. Proving you don't need a lot of power to fly these. It was a little under powered and the blue wonder has more range of flight.

wow 10oz how did you do that? what does the stryker frame weight no canpy just the main body.
cheers
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 10:50 AM
USA, NY, Brooklyn
Joined Jan 2002
1,831 Posts
i'll probably beat or come close to 10oz rtf WITH FPV gear and batteries, soon. Maybe I'll complete it today.
By Drilling holes into the airframe and reinforcing with very thin but strong tape.

bare airframe is about 150grams or 5.3oz. I will try to lower it by 2-3 oz hopefully.

The lighter you get it, the slower/more control at lower speeds you get. So flying between trees becomes very very easy. at 14oz AUW with battery and fpv gear it is awesome flying between/under around trees. imagine 10oz with high quality fpv gear. that will be INSANE!
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 11:16 AM
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dathird313's Avatar
Joined Jul 2006
76 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mclarkson View Post
Alright... the 3D thing didn't work out very well so I've changed things up and mounted my new FPV gear on this one. It's a little heavy at 504 grams AUW, but it's packing two batteries the video transmitter and camera, etc.

I mounted the camera right behind the nose and then wound up shaving off the top of the nose to give me a clear view. I think I'm gonna try mounting one of my keychain cameras on the new nose.
I have two strykers now for FPV, a light stryker and a medium weight one. Have you already flown the stryker with the shaved nose? On my light stryker, I left the nose off completely. It gives me a better view of the ground. I'm concerned that with the nose in place you're having to aim the camera up a bit instead of down.

On mine, the wide angle lens I was using required me to actually shave into the front of the fuselage. Sure the nose of the plane is as aerodynamic as a brick, but it provides a clear view. Plus I've found that my light stryker tends to slow down very quickly, even when it had a nose due to the lack of momentum.

Also, why are you using two video batteries? Its really not that hard to get a single battery system working without interference. That makes it really easy to lose some weight by using just one battery, and its a lot more convenient only having to charge one batery.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 12:52 PM
USA, NY, Brooklyn
Joined Jan 2002
1,831 Posts
swiss cheese stryker. lol just under 90grams as in pic...

now i will cover it all with black very thin, uline color coded packing tape....
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Last edited by KillerCut; Nov 11, 2012 at 12:45 PM.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 12:59 PM
USA, NY, Brooklyn
Joined Jan 2002
1,831 Posts
changed my mind. I think I can make it look better and more visible for LOS if I use the tape just to cover the holes....
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