Just got an 808 #16 keychain cam with the middle lens.
(There's a terrific thread on this site dedicated to it)
A short test showes good in close focus and depth of field, enough to see what's going on on the deck. Video looks real good, but it's sensitive to vibration or cam motion.
Anyone got any experience mounting one on an IOM, or can point me to a thread?
I intend to mount it on the rudder shaft to get a sense of my rudder fumbles, tacking etc. if that's too much movement, i'll just mount it on a platform near the rudder post. Another thought is to tape it to the mast crane looking down.

Happy New Year

I have used the keychain camera a bit and experimented with the positioning.

I prefer it a bit above deck and well aft (imagine eye level when you are standing at the helm)

This is also in an area clear of the boom and sheets so no snagging issues

Example here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=3RZU1bh6GBk

I have seen on the net that Mike Clifton and Philip Payle are joining forces in the production of IOM's what boat i don't know.

Originally Posted by The Tug

I have seen on the net that Mike Clifton and Philip Payle are joining forces in the production of IOM's what boat i don't know.

See:-
http://www.cmyachts.co.uk/

Brian

It looks like Phil is taking his own designs, 'Arrival' and its derivatives, with him and also possibly doing the moulding and assembly of the others in the CM stable.
The best of wishes to them in this collaborative venture.
R

Fwal

What filler and paint did you use on the foam.

I've tried Wickes lightweight filler, it does not stick enough but sands easily when it is not coming off.

High quality plaster seemed better, and I guess epoxy and microballons would be very good, but I'm trying to use as little epoxy as I can get away with.

I used light weight plaster filler ( just basic drywall filler), don't use epoxy and micro balloons because no mater how light weight it might be it will be way harder than the foam. The closer the filler sands similarities as the foam will prevent less hard spots, which would cause irregularities in the finish.

Hi Simon
I've just had another look at the filler I used just to paste over the foam plug to help fair the shape. I found it at Aldi's so was pretty cheap. It worked really well, stuck brilliantly and takes a fair bit of sanding but not as much as car filler or resin/micro ballons which both work out at fairly expensive alternatives.
This is the first time I have used this method and I am happy with the results. The plug received two layers of 200g/m2 of cloth, the first was 3M spray mounted onto the cling film at 45 degrees, the second layer was laid at 90 degrees and was just wetted out, another layer will be added nearer the completion of the hull as this will be taken over the gunwhales to the chine to help structural stiffness and help prevent impact bruising.

Thanks guys

I suspect I did something wrong with the Wickes light weight filler, it seemed a great idea, and I'm not sure why it didn't always stick well. As you say AB the nearer you get to the hardness of the foam, the less likely it is to get hard spots, which I have done when I used a little car filler for one specific part (another error).

I will look out for the Aldi filler Fwal, and check if dry wall filler is different from ordinary plaster (which is what I am currently using) here in UK AB.

The plug is finally getting quite close to fair and moderately accurate, it would have been better if I had been a little more cautious when using the long board for my initial fairing. It was very fair, but not accurate enough for my liking. Quite a learning lesson, as this is my first go with foam.

Do I also gather Fwal that you use clingfilm over the foam to prevent sticking, and if so can you heat shrink it?

Recently the first two production 'Shiraz' yachts have been competing in Leeds, Bournville and Fleetwood. The two UK based boats have been putting in some creditable performances with interest from overseas growing.. From my point of view I would like to see a good foundation to hopefully a successful design. Please view for details: www.taylormadeyachts.com

Originally Posted by SimonRobinson

Do I also gather Fwal that you use clingfilm over the foam to prevent sticking, and if so can you heat shrink it?

Hi Simon
I stretched clingfilm over the plug and used parcel tape to keep it taught. This produced a less porous and smoother internal finish. I'm also an advocate for using a light covering of '3M spray mount' prior to wetting out fibre glass over a given subject, be it a mouldie plane fuse, balsa hull or in this instance a cling filmed plug. It makes the whole job so much easier and as far as I can tell doesn't have any adverse effects. On certain occasions I have used spray mount between fibre glass layers especially where curves have been particularly pronounced thus preventing the annoying floating of the cloth.
When will we get to seem some progress photo's Simon?

Hi Guys

I will put a set of photos on a site soon. I currently only have got to the hull shell (not tansom, bow or deck), and I deliberatly work slowly as I react to epoxy. Weighs in at 270 grams, a little heavier than I had hoped, and it will need paint (moulded on male plug) and some filler as I was not that good with my shrink wrap, or the parcel tape for that matter, so a few rucks.

On subject of paint, for going on glass, how does epoxy highbuild sound followed by car spray can paint. I would prefer 2 pack poly, but that will add quite a bit of weight I imagine. I guess I could even leave hull as sanded highbuild epoxy only. What have you done in the past. Lots of comment on paint, but I can't find much on what types of paint used.

I hope the 3 pics I've attached display, first attempt

Simon

Originally Posted by SimonRobinson

On subject of paint, for going on glass, how does epoxy highbuild sound followed by car spray can paint. I would prefer 2 pack poly, but that will add quite a bit of weight I imagine. I guess I could even leave hull as sanded highbuild epoxy only. What have you done in the past. Lots of comment on paint, but I can't find much on what types of paint used.


Simon

I paint all the boats I get with 2 pack, I have a friend who is a auto spray painter and the last couple of times I have had a boat painted it has only added about 25 grams. one light under coat and 2 colour coats and a clear top coat.
My painter puts it on very light. Only go for the solid colours as the metallics and pearls need about 7 layers of paint.

hi Mike

Thanks for weight info, very useful. Why the clear top coat? Does it give more of a gloss?
Also any makes of paint, including the undercoat?

Is that undercoat an epoxy or polyurethene?

Simon

Different countries will have different brands,here we have two brands Glasurit and Sikkens both are very good,i did'nt do a clear and it's fine with the ocaisional polish It's a bit of an art use a painter.
P.s we also have a boat here that's just grey high build primer and it's stood up well over the years,don't know what product Steve Landeau USA Patriot he built it.