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Old Nov 29, 2012, 05:57 PM
NORTHLAND NEW ZEALAND
D design's Avatar
New Zealand, Northland, Totara North
Joined Feb 2012
598 Posts
I have a skiff type deck with the mast deck steeped and mast at 100mm lower point to deck limit mark. The only modifications needed to lower would be the goseneck. Lucky I have a telescopic mainsheet post!
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 07:03 PM
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Perth Western Australia
Joined Jul 2009
1,109 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by TedFlack View Post
Low as possible within the rules, yes. BUT, there may be other things that get in the way, such as the vang hitting the side deck, sheet lines, etc. On my Britpop I had to get the wheel off the vang adjuster to clear the sheets. Just be aware!
This comes back to what was mentioned a few weeks ago about the where the vang meets the boom, if you shorten the vang it will clear the side deck, I had the same problem with my old TS2 clone.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 07:12 PM
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Perth Western Australia
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrushlesHeaven View Post
Sorry, new in rc sailing and this was asked before I am sure but
where do I get one of this sailboats please?
Thanks
Robert
Robert,
As Ted said is it a second hand boat you are chasing or is it that hull that you want?
If so taht hull in the picture looks like a TS2, Check the for sale sections of different club, state and national website's.
I only know of one for sale but it is here in Western Australia
http://www.rsawa.asn.au/index.php?op...d=3&Itemid=100
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 07:15 PM
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Broughty Ferry, Dundee, Scotland
Joined Feb 2006
127 Posts
I would like to clarify the deck limit mark/lower measurement point association if I may.

The deck limit mark is a small perminant mark, painted or otherwise on the centreline of the deck in proximity to the mast recess or deck mount and must be a minimum of 5mm in diameter.

The lower limit mark on the mast which is a 5mm band, below the top of which the mainsail must not extend, and the top of which must be between 60mm and 100mm above the deck limit mark.
The three rigs 'A', 'B' &'C', must have their lower limit mark with a maximum variation of 5mm between them. This prevents skippers having two or more 'A' rigs with varying lower limit marks and being able to choose which to use for any given event, dependant on forecast conditions, as all smaller rigs would have to be within the 5mm tolerance.

Ralph
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 07:20 PM
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Canada, BC, Lake Cowichan
Joined Jul 2011
531 Posts
The latest edition of the excellent Seattle IOM newsletter is out.

http://www.seattleradiosailing.org/w...28email%29.pdf

John
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 07:29 PM
Registered User
United States, MI, Bloomfield Hills
Joined Feb 2010
587 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by isisagoodun View Post
I would like to clarify the deck limit mark/lower measurement point association if I may.

The deck limit mark is a small perminant mark, painted or otherwise on the centreline of the deck in proximity to the mast recess or deck mount and must be a minimum of 5mm in diameter.

The lower limit mark on the mast which is a 5mm band, below the top of which the mainsail must not extend, and the top of which must be between 60mm and 100mm above the deck limit mark.
The three rigs 'A', 'B' &'C', must have their lower limit mark with a maximum variation of 5mm between them. This prevents skippers having two or more 'A' rigs with varying lower limit marks and being able to choose which to use for any given event, dependant on forecast conditions, as all smaller rigs would have to be within the 5mm tolerance.

Ralph
The different rigs don't have to be within 5mm, this was discussed a few years ago on the International Forum and it was decided that all it means is that they all have to be within the 60mm to 100mm mark. Most of us here is he USA though they all had to be within 5mm of each other but turns out we were mistaken

But, as you said the reason from the rule was to prevent moving a given rig up and down as the wind changes. Apparently some people wanted to raise the rig quite high in light air and down in heavy air.

I'll see if I can find the discussion. http://www.iomclass.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=797
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Last edited by TedFlack; Nov 29, 2012 at 07:35 PM. Reason: Found the discussion
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 07:29 PM
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hiljoball's Avatar
Canada, BC, Lake Cowichan
Joined Jul 2011
531 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by isisagoodun View Post
The three rigs 'A', 'B' &'C', must have their lower limit mark with a maximum variation of 5mm between them. This prevents skippers having two or more 'A' rigs with varying lower limit marks and being able to choose which to use for any given event, dependant on forecast conditions, as all smaller rigs would have to be within the 5mm tolerance.

Ralph
HI Ralph,
Very good description of the limit mark.

The 5mm tolerance is not to prevent different A rigs being used - that is not allowed under the rules already.

I believe that it relates to the practice of using a tensioning screw on the mast heel to raise and tension the rig. The tolerance is to limit any excesses in changing rig height with that fitting (if used).

John
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 03:17 AM
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max67's Avatar
Italy, Abruzzo, Pescara
Joined Jun 2010
63 Posts
Hi all,
on the link you can find photos of the of Mrs. Alessia Carmignani taken to European class IOM
http://mainboom.blogspot.it/

cheers, massimo
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 08:21 AM
Registered User
Barbados
Joined Jan 2011
2,142 Posts
Well i never knew i could generate a page and a half of discussion by moving my rig as i am only experimenting with this it is nice to know i don't have to move the other rigs if i decide to stay there,as Olivier has pointed out the boom will be low to the water which i do not think will be a problem here as the lake is high wind but small in size so it's flat water on a big steady breeze(excellent speed sailing) however this could be a problem in waves,the B rig and C rig are a big reduction in sail area in this class if you were to compare it to a real boat with a 1st reef, so i don't think it would be smart to carry those rigs at less than 70mm because at that point you shurley will have waves and you don't really need to stuff the rig right down in the boat as it is already a huge drop in mast height,it really depends where you sail as a big lake will have much more wave action than a small one given the same wind speed.A Lintel will never be fast in under 6 knots therefore i am looking for it's best setup around what it does best.If it's lite trust me i have another weapon.Sometimes too far East is West and i intend to find out.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 08:48 AM
OlivierFRA100
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Joined Nov 2006
185 Posts
You still sail your Lintel ? Not the other one ?
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 09:16 AM
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Barbados
Joined Jan 2011
2,142 Posts
The dust is coming off of this one these boats are still very fast when there is some wind blowing.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 02:29 PM
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USA, CA, San Diego 92120
Joined Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by max67 View Post
Hi all,
on the link you can find photos of the of Mrs. Alessia Carmignani taken to European class IOM
http://mainboom.blogspot.it/

cheers, massimo
Wow.. great Photos.. Thanks!
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 02:40 PM
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USA, CA, San Diego 92120
Joined Oct 2007
3,088 Posts
repairing a keel bulb?

Tug,
I have another question... I just noticed that some how I got a little ding ( about 1/4 inch circular in diameter) in the front end of my keel bulb.. it's chipped off the multiple layers of paint , and exposed the lead and a silvery colored steel? rod running thru it..and its a chip at an oblique angle.. not straight on.. any way.. How should I fix this? I would like to try to sand down and around .. back perhaps an inch, and apply some bondo on it, then re-shape/ prime and paint it..

Will this work Ok? what paint should i use .. it's got a very shiny Black finish now.. but I suppose i could tape it off and do some other color since matching it will be nearly impossible.. alternatively I could take it off the Keel fin and try to re-sand and re-do the entire paint job on the bulb..it's almost exactly 2500grams now there are a few other blemishes in it.. but the prior owner had painted them with a touch up..
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 05:13 PM
Lipo Power
BrushlesHeaven's Avatar
Joined May 2009
301 Posts
I got it, thank You...



Quote:
Originally Posted by TedFlack View Post
Are you asking where to get an IOM or this design boat shown in the picture?
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Old Dec 01, 2012, 08:44 AM
Registered User
Barbados
Joined Jan 2011
2,142 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
Tug,
I have another question... I just noticed that some how I got a little ding ( about 1/4 inch circular in diameter) in the front end of my keel bulb.. it's chipped off the multiple layers of paint , and exposed the lead and a silvery colored steel? rod running thru it..and its a chip at an oblique angle.. not straight on.. any way.. How should I fix this? I would like to try to sand down and around .. back perhaps an inch, and apply some bondo on it, then re-shape/ prime and paint it..

Will this work Ok? what paint should i use .. it's got a very shiny Black finish now.. but I suppose i could tape it off and do some other color since matching it will be nearly impossible.. alternatively I could take it off the Keel fin and try to re-sand and re-do the entire paint job on the bulb..it's almost exactly 2500grams now there are a few other blemishes in it.. but the prior owner had painted them with a touch up..
Mix up some of the west system snot(thickish) and use as a filler it gets very hard sand it back to shape and paint it.Did you put the air pump back or are the fish dead???Do not sand down the bulb you don't want to remove lead fill it and fair it.
Yesterday was a holiday here so i sailed the tug for 3 races in a moderate breeze and won 2,i see no problem so far with boom height, another members boat shut down so i let him sail it he had no probs either but time will be the test,it feels different because it looks different if you understand that terminology,again today we sail so i might drink less beer and sail more.
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