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Old Oct 22, 2012, 04:43 PM
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USA, LA, Mandeville
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jims123, you do not need more than 180* on a HS7950 arm servo to get enough travel. My arm is less than 3 inches and I can adjust my endpoints out at each end to get around 120* which is enough for two IOMs that I have them in. It has a 1:2 block on the arm end. No need to convert it to a drum.

On the other hand, RMGs are pretty foolproof (at twice the price). You will be happy with their performance, and their ability to use 2S lipos and regulate voltage to the RX and rudder servo.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 07:17 PM
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United States, MI, Bloomfield Hills
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Quote:

Hey
I'm very happy with how it went.. .. it didn't sink.... or leak a drop for that matter .. sailed about an hour.. plan to get a new A rig on order cause I doubt a credit card edge alone can take these creases out of the main..
Cool.

Not sure I have ever seen that much wind at that place. Glad it all worked.

Like Hew said, the 7950 will work fine. But I'm sticking with the RMG.

Ted
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TedFlack View Post
Cool.

Not sure I have ever seen that much wind at that place. Glad it all worked.

Like Hew said, the 7950 will work fine. But I'm sticking with the RMG.

Ted
Ted., I too am glad there's a simple alternative and that the HS7950 with arm works well..

I have a couple questions in these attached Photos..if anyone could give me some advice in reply I'd appreciate it.. Thanks IN Advance
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 10:36 PM
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Try http://midwestmodelyachting.com for a rudder arm. The third pic is probably the downhaul for the main. It may need to be longer to reach, but the fitting it is on is adjustable fore and aft on the boom. It should run forward to the gooseneck, through some sort of turning hole and tie to the tack of the main.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 10:51 PM
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Jim Try these from Sailsetc
From the looks you may need to extend both lines
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 02:38 AM
OlivierFRA100
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Picture 2=> For Rig 1, you don't use eyelets, for rig 2, 1 eyelet, for rig 3, 2 eyelets.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by FRA3700 View Post
Picture 2=> For Rig 1, you don't use eyelets, for rig 2, 1 eyelet, for rig 3, 2 eyelets.
rgr, understood.. ..and I'm assuming the A Rig is the same as Rig 1

Thanks Mike for the .pdf tips too I see that little strap on the .pdf drawings too, but it appears to be redundant to the downhaul adjustment line that's already in place on the Main, so I need to ask one of the guys how to rig it later at the pond I guess. Right now it's just dangling loose at one end..
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 08:37 AM
OlivierFRA100
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Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
rgr, understood.. ..and I'm assuming the A Rig is the same as Rig 1
In IOM class rules, there are only rigs 1/2/3.

Marblehead use rigs A/B/C/C1... ;-)
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hew565 View Post
Try http://midwestmodelyachting.com for a rudder arm. The third pic is probably the downhaul for the main. It may need to be longer to reach, but the fitting it is on is adjustable fore and aft on the boom. It should run forward to the gooseneck, through some sort of turning hole and tie to the tack of the main.
hew565,
I'm sorry I'm confused and failed to show you the downhaul earlier, but since this downhaul was already in place on the main I used it.. so this short little stubby line still is a mystery.. I plan to just remove it.. Regards, JimS
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by FRA3700 View Post
In IOM class rules, there are only rigs 1/2/3.

Marblehead use rigs A/B/C/C1... ;-)
I'm afraid I've got a lot of catching up to do on the IOM rules. could probably take me a lifetime so I better get started. Thanks, JimS
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 10:12 AM
OlivierFRA100
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Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
hew565,
I'm sorry I'm confused and failed to show you the downhaul earlier, but since this downhaul was already in place on the main I used it.. so this short little stubby line still is a mystery.. I plan to just remove it.. Regards, JimS
You have a downhaul for luff line (in place on your picture) and a downhaul for the sail itself, also called cunningham. It is used to adjust tension of the sail. I believe this is it.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by FRA3700 View Post
You have a downhaul for luff line (in place on your picture) and a downhaul for the sail itself, also called cunningham. It is used to adjust tension of the sail. I believe this is it.
Ahahh, now I understand .. I bet you are right.. this particular line is too short but I understand where the cunningham is supposed to be connected to the tack of the main now.. and I'll look more closely at the .pdf's Mike sent too.. Thank You very much FRA..
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 10:59 AM
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Counterweight ?

I noticed that the oval lead counterweight is missing on the pointy end of my Jib's Boom.. is this a required item? what weight do I need to buy for a No1 Rig?

I notice that they come in several different weights at item 105 and below here:

http://midwestmodelyachting.com/BoomHardware.asp
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 11:26 AM
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New Sails?

I need a new No 1 main sail.. can I assume that new sails will fit properly in my mast/ boom and rigging? should I get the a new Jib at the same time? Who'd recommend a good IOM sail maker with a good track-record?
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 11:35 AM
FROM THE MIND OF A MADMAN
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
I need a new No 1 main sail.. can I assume that new sails will fit properly in my mast/ boom and rigging? should I get the a new Jib at the same time? Who'd recommend a good IOM sail maker with a good track-record?
Do they sail IOMs down in San Diego? We sail them up in the L.A. area once a month. You may find someone local. My IOM has Brad Gibson sails and I have a set of Black Magic sails. Have no idea about the fit, great question because I am ready for a new set myself.
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