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Old Oct 17, 2012, 11:15 PM
NORTHLAND NEW ZEALAND
New Zealand, Northland, Totara North
Joined Feb 2012
538 Posts
My 280EF rmg winch sounds quite rough. I've checked all the teeth so must be dibree or bearings. any ideas?


cheers, Nathaniel
www.ddesignyachts.webs.com
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 09:20 PM
NORTHLAND NEW ZEALAND
New Zealand, Northland, Totara North
Joined Feb 2012
538 Posts
this thread has reached 200 pages
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 10:41 PM
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Perth Western Australia
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Yep and nearly 3000 posts
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
Tried again using a 72M Tx and Rx and the Winch worked, tried an older model Optic 6 with the same 72MHx CH 17 freq and it worked..tried the ASSAN module plugged in the Optic 6 with an older ASSAN Rx and it still worked.. Tried the new JR 9302 and new ASSAN 2.4 Tx/Rx again and it did NOT work .. but for grins I switched the RCVR Channel slot from 3 to slot 1.. and I'll be darned if it didn't start working!. Reset the IN and OUT End points and I only have 1 and 3/4ths turn on the shaft rotation.. ( not 2.46 but I think that's enough to try sailing it .. I will try clean the gears 1st and re lube it. before replacing it.. . But at least I have something to sail with now.. Sorry it took me a while to sort this out. Appreciate the assist along the way.. I know I'm not there yet but do feel a lot closer to having it seaworthy.

I will try to adjust the sheet travel distance next..

Regards.
V/r JimS
Thats good to hear you have cracked the setup,what you need to do now is when reinstalled do the setup up until the point where you are going to set the revolutions and install the sails only then will you know what is your desired full out position the main boom should be 1/4 inch from the stays.The gears look to have grease remove it.Keep programming it until you can do it blindfolded.There's nothing wrong with an Optic radio for R/c sailing if it works on that,a mix can be programmed on the throttle and applied to a switch.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 05:48 AM
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Barbados
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Originally Posted by D design View Post
My 280EF rmg winch sounds quite rough. I've checked all the teeth so must be dibree or bearings. any ideas?


cheers, Nathaniel
www.ddesignyachts.webs.com
Wd-40 is not the best lubricant but is a really good cleaner.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 06:27 AM
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Broughty Ferry, Dundee, Scotland
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RMG's always did sound like truck engines!!!

R
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 08:22 AM
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United States, MI, Bloomfield Hills
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Originally Posted by D design View Post
My 280EF rmg winch sounds quite rough. I've checked all the teeth so must be dibree or bearings. any ideas?


cheers, Nathaniel
www.ddesignyachts.webs.com
A friend of mine sprayed his with Corrosion X , you can barely hear the winch. I would clean the gears before spraying with anything.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 09:07 AM
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USA, CA, San Diego 92120
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Originally Posted by The Tug View Post
Thats good to hear you have cracked the setup,what you need to do now is when reinstalled do the setup up until the point where you are going to set the revolutions and install the sails only then will you know what is your desired full out position the main boom should be 1/4 inch from the stays.The gears look to have grease remove it.Keep programming it until you can do it blindfolded.There's nothing wrong with an Optic radio for R/c sailing if it works on that,a mix can be programmed on the throttle and applied to a switch.
Tug,
I'm on it..Thanks,.. Once flushed clean with WD-40 is Corrosion X a good Lubricant? Where is a good Close Hauled point on the Main?.. is it the point the Servo begins to strain with the Tx Joystick wiper centered, or is it out slightly from center line? Can I expect my Tx EPA, joystick trim and other Txmitter adjustments to work? or should any adjustments and settings now be made within the Smart Winch setup and rigging alone?
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 02:40 PM
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Broughty Ferry, Dundee, Scotland
Joined Feb 2006
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Woaaaaaa there Jims123!!

It looks like you are not using a TX with the mode 2 modification where the centralising spring on the left hand up/down motion has been removed. You need the full travel of the lever. The full 'sheet in' position has to be with the lever fully down and with the trim set fully down as well. This to protect the boat from accidental over tensioning the sheet control. If you are using a computer TX, then the full in EPR must be set at the fully down position. The fully out sheet position, up lever, is then set, using the out EPR so that the boom is just about touching the shroud wire.

Take care, but remove that spring.

Ralph
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 03:10 PM
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Woaaaaaa there Jims123!!

It looks like you are not ..

Take care, but remove that spring.

Ralph
Ralph,
I've got a pair of Mode 2 JR-PX 9303s and there is no joystick spring.. sorry to have confused the issue on the wiper too .. I agree full down on the trim would be best..I fly planes so typically have all these centered when each control surface is set.. but I agree that 's not appropriate for a sailboat. I'm still not sure any of these Txmitter adjustments will work once a RMG 280D Smart Winch now has control, hence the questions . JimS
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 03:53 PM
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United States, CA, Pleasanton
Joined Oct 2004
45 Posts
corrosion X and WD-40

corrosion X prevents corrosion. WD-40 displaces water. lubricant would be 3 in One oil. use it on the bearing on the bottom of the motor on a rmg. clean the exposed gears. no lubricant is need there. ron
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 03:56 PM
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USA, CA, San Diego 92120
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corrosion X prevents corrosion. WD-40 displaces water. lubricant would be 3 in One oil. use it on the bearing on the bottom of the motor on a rmg. clean the exposed gears. no lubricant is need there. ron
Thanks very much Ron.. will do
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 10:22 AM
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Now What.

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Originally Posted by The Tug View Post
Thats good to hear you have cracked the setup,what you need to do now is when reinstalled do the setup up until the point where you are going to set the revolutions and install the sails only then will you know what is your desired full out position the main boom should be 1/4 inch from the stays.The gears look to have grease remove it.Keep programming it until you can do it blindfolded.There's nothing wrong with an Optic radio for R/c sailing if it works on that,a mix can be programmed on the throttle and applied to a switch.
Mr. Tug
I did the clean & lube, set the travel step 7. For the third and final EP sample .. A few times, got about 5 shaft rotations at max Out.. Practiced settin it up a couple more times.. All seemed well and repeatable each time from initial power on.. Put the winch and Drum back into the hull, powered up and started testing the sheet play.. All was fine for 5 or 6 excursions but then the winch simply quit responding to the stick , yet rudder (and rcvr was ok.. ) pulled the battery off again and found the Closehauled In point had changed so I re- did the three sample points .seems odd since it was under light loading the whole time. . Powered up , started playing around again. all was fine. but after a couple minutes and a few Full (7 or 8 )in to full out excursions of the stick and sheet lines.. It locked up ( not the gears but the smart circuitry ) and the winch quit again and set a new In point again.. Please Advise.. I'm thinking I need to send it back for refurb.

JimS
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 05:21 PM
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Perth Western Australia
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Him send it to rob and get it refurbished, unless there is anyone in the US that does it.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 06:42 PM
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USA, CA, San Diego 92120
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Him send it to rob and get it refurbished, unless there is anyone in the US that does it.
I was at the Pond today and one of the guys there suggested I try a 5 cell NiMh or dual LiFe since the voltage out if the 4 cell AA pack I am using now may be too low..for this type of Winch.. I hope they are right.. If not.. I will .. JimS
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