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Old Oct 16, 2012, 06:05 PM
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Barbados
Joined Jan 2011
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The winch looks pretty good in the pic,don't necesarily mean it's working though.Get it on the bench and learn what you're doing or you'll end up causing damage to the boat and mental distress.That's a good widget too i can see by the glass work inside.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 06:19 PM
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USA, CA, San Diego 92120
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Originally Posted by The Tug View Post
Your first question correct it's reading the pulse width so the winch wont move to the out position,your second question to every different brand radio that winch will come to it's in position of that radios potentimeter which you don't know so if at that point the drum is on and it comes in too far you will shurley break something those RMG winches are very powerful,at this point when the winch has found the in position you then reinstall the drum on the given spline to your deck mark(sails in the boat sheets attached and closehauled) and then moving the joystick slowly out you achive your desired throw turn off the winch(switch) will beep to save that setting turn off everything and reboot power,fortunatley the winch only does this the first time it sees a new radio after that it will always come to the same in position as long as you have not messed with EPA etc.Now all thats stopping you from removal is a rubber grommet dig it into the pot with a small flat bit and slip the wires through and the winch is going to come out remember to send in a string,if that grommet needs replacing autopart store they snap brake lines onto shock absorbers.When you get it on the bench after cleanup program it 5 times to different revolutions to get fimilar with the process.I have owned a widget so i'm fimiliar with the layout.
Mr Tug,
All very good tips .. wish me luck, as i will try again tonight.. i am thinking it did not work earlier because I may have been toggling the Mode 2 throttle joystick over, and back too quickly.. and was worried it would time-out so ran thru the steps 5 and beyond perhaps too quickly. I never did hear any more beeps and now see i should get a beep at the very end of the set up sequence... Good info in the Grommet too.. the other reason I haven't pulled the winch out of the hull yet is I could not find a stubby or offset Phillips to fit under the deck and unscrew the two screws.. but I will certainly do that if i can't get it working in place. I've also been in touch with Rob and he's given me a quote on an upgrade/refurb so will go that route if unsuccessful.. Thanks yet Again.. i am sure glad you are out there Tug.. Regards, jimS
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 06:41 PM
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Barbados
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The plate that the winch is bolted to slides out remove the screws when it's outside.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 06:52 PM
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Barbados
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The rubber seal on your winch shaft is it seated on the winch or is it seated on the red plate??
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:18 PM
NORTHLAND NEW ZEALAND
New Zealand, Northland, Totara North
Joined Feb 2012
537 Posts
New Spitfire DX and D1 at Northland Camps NZ

14/10/12
www.ddesignyachts.webs.com/
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 06:01 AM
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Barbados
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Mr Tug,
All very good tips .. wish me luck, as i will try again tonight.. i am thinking it did not work earlier because I may have been toggling the Mode 2 throttle joystick over, and back too quickly.. and was worried it would time-out so ran thru the steps 5 and beyond perhaps too quickly. I never did hear any more beeps and now see i should get a beep at the very end of the set up sequence... Good info in the Grommet too.. the other reason I haven't pulled the winch out of the hull yet is I could not find a stubby or offset Phillips to fit under the deck and unscrew the two screws.. but I will certainly do that if i can't get it working in place. I've also been in touch with Rob and he's given me a quote on an upgrade/refurb so will go that route if unsuccessful.. Thanks yet Again.. i am sure glad you are out there Tug.. Regards, jimS
The programming process will only time out at step 1 you have to turn on the switch with in 3 secs of the winch completing it's 10 beeps after that each process you can take all day.
P.S everyone has thier preference i prefer the D model to the ES, it has a delay on the final trim which i don't like however you sail in much lighter air than i do.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 09:00 AM
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USA, CA, San Diego 92120
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Originally Posted by The Tug View Post
The programming process will only time out at step 1 you have to turn on the switch with in 3 secs of the winch completing it's 10 beeps after that each process you can take all day.
P.S everyone has thier preference i prefer the D model to the ES, it has a delay on the final trim which i don't like however you sail in much lighter air than i do.
The Drum size is 42mm
I re-ran the procedure called SmartWinch Setup Procedure
Failsafe Receivers Signal Line Switch Method and your version of it several times and did so on two completely different Rx's and Tx's and get identical results. I get the long Acknowledge tone after the three Beeps for both the Close hauled and the Far End settings .. all that seems to match exactly thru the end of the .pdf step 5 and your Step 5. but regardless of how I shut down by simply disconnecting the battery , or by removing the Receiver Power 1st then the battery ( with or without the Signal switch left ON), or with the stick and slider at any position I get the exact same result when I try to start up from scratch

Tx is On 1st.. makes no difference where the stick is set.. as I power ON the Winch I get two or three very short beeps.. the Shaft turns 180 CW then -180 CCW back to the same point you see below .. and then I get 4 or more Boing Boing Boing sounding Abort tones and from that point on the shaft never turns..

I will tty the WD-40 flush then
I plan to try this one or two last times with a different model 2.4 Tx/Rx and with a 72Mhz Tx/Tx and will then likely send it back for the Refurb and model E conversion.

But, I think I'd rather have a dumb Sail Winch and just let my Tx control the End points, the travel and rate adjustment and all that in the Tx from out side the boat ( or Plane or Heli) as I'm used to doing.. but I don't know where to get such a Winch that is IOM legal and there may be some other thing I'm missing here.. so am not giving up on it yet...
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 09:56 AM
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Broughty Ferry, Dundee, Scotland
Joined Feb 2006
125 Posts
I'm not sure where you are getting the idea from, that the RMG is the only 'legal' winch. ANY suitable drum or lever arm winch can be fitted. I have been using the lever arm option in my ISIS for the last nine years, ever since Trevor Binks used one at the Vancouver Worlds. It is a Hi-tec HS5735MG, which is no longer available, and I have carried its successor, HS-5745HS, in my toolbag as a spare, just in case, but have never had to use it in all that time These winches come at a fraction of the cost of the RMG, and, even with the 1:2 ratio sheeting set up, gives enough oomph at a faster speed than the RMG. Some of my club mates have been using Futaba products quite successfully over the same time scale. I have been using the Futaba 6EX series of TX, both at 40Mhz and 2.4 Ghz with programable end points which are easy to adjust. Sounds as if you have been given some duff info.

Ralph
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by isisagoodun View Post
I'm not sure where you are getting the idea from, that the RMG is the only 'legal' winch. ANY suitable drum or lever arm winch can be fitted. I have been using the lever arm option in my ISIS for the last nine years, ever since Trevor Binks used one at the Vancouver Worlds. It is a Hi-tec HS5735MG, which is no longer available, and I have carried its successor, HS-5745HS, in my toolbag as a spare, just in case, but have never had to use it in all that time These winches come at a fraction of the cost of the RMG, and, even with the 1:2 ratio sheeting set up, gives enough oomph at a faster speed than the RMG. Some of my club mates have been using Futaba products quite successfully over the same time scale. I have been using the Futaba 6EX series of TX, both at 40Mhz and 2.4 Ghz with programable end points which are easy to adjust. Sounds as if you have been given some duff info.

Ralph
Ralph,
what i said was that I did not know of any other IOM compatible alternatives, frankly i know next to nothing about IOMs, now I do, and will investigate thanks.. Regards
JimS
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Last edited by jims123; Oct 17, 2012 at 11:18 AM. Reason: typo
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 11:13 AM
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Broughty Ferry, Dundee, Scotland
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Hi Jim S

Have a look at www.onemetre.net This is Lester Gilberts web site which gives a vast amount of researched theoretical and practical information about IOM's.
Regards
Ralph
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 11:21 AM
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Hi Jim S

Have a look at www.onemetre.net This is Lester Gilberts web site which gives a vast amount of researched theoretical and practical information about IOM's.
Regards
Ralph
Thanks Ralph.. will do.. BTW I have e-mailed Rob G. a couple questions and hope we can move forward soon.. Thanks for everyone else's help too.. I apologize for monopolizing your thread here for the past few days.. and will try to cut back the chatter now.
Regards, JimS
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 11:24 AM
OlivierFRA100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isisagoodun View Post
I'm not sure where you are getting the idea from, that the RMG is the only 'legal' winch. ANY suitable drum or lever arm winch can be fitted. I have been using the lever arm option in my ISIS for the last nine years, ever since Trevor Binks used one at the Vancouver Worlds. It is a Hi-tec HS5735MG, which is no longer available, and I have carried its successor, HS-5745HS, in my toolbag as a spare, just in case, but have never had to use it in all that time These winches come at a fraction of the cost of the RMG, and, even with the 1:2 ratio sheeting set up, gives enough oomph at a faster speed than the RMG. Some of my club mates have been using Futaba products quite successfully over the same time scale. I have been using the Futaba 6EX series of TX, both at 40Mhz and 2.4 Ghz with programable end points which are easy to adjust. Sounds as if you have been given some duff info.

Ralph
Same for me : Hitec 5735, 5745, and now 7980 (~standard size, huge power)
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 03:49 PM
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Broughty Ferry, Dundee, Scotland
Joined Feb 2006
125 Posts
Hi Olivier,

It is good to hear of a top skipper who has been through the same selection as myself. The 7980 needs 7.4V from Li Po's and I am not yet ready to upgrade to that level of kit. Thank you for adding to this thread.

Jim 123,

You will find that the two older Hi tec winches are about the same weight as the RMG, but the 7980 is comparible with a standard servo. It is being used with a large diameter (4") wheel available from Sails Etc. which allows it to be installed in a narrow hull like a Widget II or narrower. The 7980 plus wheel should be about $180.

Good Luck

Ralph
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 04:00 PM
OlivierFRA100
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Hi Ralph, thanks for the "top", but not yet !

I use it with an arm, not with a wheel.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 09:38 PM
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quick update tpo Post 2977 on the RMG 280D

Tried again using a 72M Tx and Rx and the Winch worked, tried an older model Optic 6 with the same 72MHx CH 17 freq and it worked..tried the ASSAN module plugged in the Optic 6 with an older ASSAN Rx and it still worked.. Tried the new JR 9302 and new ASSAN 2.4 Tx/Rx again and it did NOT work .. but for grins I switched the RCVR Channel slot from 3 to slot 1.. and I'll be darned if it didn't start working!. Reset the IN and OUT End points and I only have 1 and 3/4ths turn on the shaft rotation.. ( not 2.46 but I think that's enough to try sailing it .. I will try clean the gears 1st and re lube it. before replacing it.. . But at least I have something to sail with now.. Sorry it took me a while to sort this out. Appreciate the assist along the way.. I know I'm not there yet but do feel a lot closer to having it seaworthy.

I will try to adjust the sheet travel distance next..

Regards.
V/r JimS
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Last edited by jims123; Oct 18, 2012 at 11:03 AM. Reason: 2.46 Turns & typos
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