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Old Oct 14, 2012, 05:53 PM
NORTHLAND NEW ZEALAND
D design's Avatar
New Zealand, Northland, Totara North
Joined Feb 2012
585 Posts
whats better? blackmagik sails or power sails? im the only guy at the lake with blackmagik sails?
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 07:33 PM
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jims123's Avatar
USA, CA, San Diego 92120
Joined Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8387mike View Post
After 4 boats in 3 years they still confuse me, lol
Yes, I'm afraid I might need the Pulser gizmo too. I have an ASSAN 2.4 Rx in all my boats and planes and use a JR 9203 Tx with the Assan Module..
based on the Photo of the simple Signal Switch used with the RMG 280D ( not sure if mine is Rev 2 or Rev 3 RMG 280D tho:

https://www.rmgsailwinch.com.au/rmg/...ne-Switch.html

I made the ON OFF signal switch and put it in line per the photo and the Close Hauled End Point seems to be setting Ok .. at least the beep tones match and are in sync with the procedure at thls link right up to Step 4 where it is supposed to then be sampling the Far end point with the sails all the way out ( I assume).. but the problem is the sail sheets remain all the way in, and don't move out to be re-sampled at the far end point.. regardless of what I've done to get past that point.

When I try to operate the winch normally after a startup .. it either locks up with the abort tones or seems to operate normally In an out but mechanically binds at the Close hauled End point, and the sheet play is not linear .. as I stop at different stick positions the winch and sheet stop at different points, off from the same stick position each time..I'd send it back at Au to have it upgraded and checked if I knew how to remove the winch without damaging it .. but 1st I will wait for John to make it out here with his Pulser andr try to find an RMG IOM'er here in the club.. Thank you all for your help.. I will try ordering a Pulser next..

BTW anyone in the RMG Winch world know If it's possible to substitute this type of Servo Tester in place of the Pulser? I plan to try this before ordering one from Australia anyway..
Will advise..

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...vo_Tester.html

Never mind.. This servo tester can't supply the pulses properly.. This did not work.

Regards, JimS
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Last edited by jims123; Oct 14, 2012 at 11:30 PM. Reason: Tester update..
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 08:35 PM
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United States, CA, Alameda
Joined Nov 2010
892 Posts
Jim,
I think you need to get a better radio. Sounds like that radio is the problem. I had a RMG 280 d in one of my boats and had no issues using it with my Futaba 2.4ghz radio. I would get a radio that has all the programing options so you can just use the EPA adjustment to set up the winch.
Ryan
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 11:27 PM
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USA, CA, San Diego 92120
Joined Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rssailor View Post
Jim,
I think you need to get a better radio. Sounds like that radio is the problem. I had a RMG 280 d in one of my boats and had no issues using it with my Futaba 2.4ghz radio. I would get a radio that has all the programing options so you can just use the EPA adjustment to set up the winch.
Ryan
Hummm before getting a new $400 radio I think I'd rather get the recommended Pulser module or replace the 10 yr? old Winch Servo. I've been happy with the radio and have two and a buddy cable I teach friends and family on so I'm not likely to switch.. It's completely possible this winch has other issues too.. The person I got it from had loaned it to a friend who passed away very recently but has no idea if it worked when he got it back. My radio on the other hand has been flawless with several other RC boats and over 30 planes so in this situation which would u trust?
Regards,
JimS
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 01:18 AM
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United States, CA, Alameda
Joined Nov 2010
892 Posts
Jim,
You may be right. New winch will cost you another 250 bucks approx. Good radio like a Futaba 6ex or J or Spektrum DX6I is around 220 bucks. You might send the winch back to RMG to have him look at it. You could find someone with a futaba or spektrum radio also and use their receiver and TX and see if that works?? I wish you luck on resolving the issue. Ryan
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 01:49 AM
NORTHLAND NEW ZEALAND
D design's Avatar
New Zealand, Northland, Totara North
Joined Feb 2012
585 Posts
i recon get a new winch or nothing. changing your tx and rx can change your feel for the boat if you are a more serious sailor. your winch should be fine if you give it a service. i have a 7 year old 280d and still runs like a dream.

good winds,

Nathaniel
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 02:09 AM
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8387mike's Avatar
Perth Western Australia
Joined Jul 2009
1,106 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by D design View Post
whats better? blackmagik sails or power sails? im the only guy at the lake with blackmagik sails?
Hi Nathaniel,
We have guys in our club that swear by Power and others that prefer Blackmagick, from what I tell they are no quicker than me with my Logic's. But I have heard them mention that the attention to detail on the Magick's is only slightly better. But look at the results they both have a great name. Hard question to answer
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 05:42 AM
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Barbados
Joined Jan 2011
2,073 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
Yes, I'm afraid I might need the Pulser gizmo too. I have an ASSAN 2.4 Rx in all my boats and planes and use a JR 9203 Tx with the Assan Module..
based on the Photo of the simple Signal Switch used with the RMG 280D ( not sure if mine is Rev 2 or Rev 3 RMG 280D tho:

https://www.rmgsailwinch.com.au/rmg/...ne-Switch.html

I made the ON OFF signal switch and put it in line per the photo and the Close Hauled End Point seems to be setting Ok .. at least the beep tones match and are in sync with the procedure at thls link right up to Step 4 where it is supposed to then be sampling the Far end point with the sails all the way out ( I assume).. but the problem is the sail sheets remain all the way in, and don't move out to be re-sampled at the far end point.. regardless of what I've done to get past that point.

When I try to operate the winch normally after a startup .. it either locks up with the abort tones or seems to operate normally In an out but mechanically binds at the Close hauled End point, and the sheet play is not linear .. as I stop at different stick positions the winch and sheet stop at different points, off from the same stick position each time..I'd send it back at Au to have it upgraded and checked if I knew how to remove the winch without damaging it .. but 1st I will wait for John to make it out here with his Pulser andr try to find an RMG IOM'er here in the club.. Thank you all for your help.. I will try ordering a Pulser next..

BTW anyone in the RMG Winch world know If it's possible to substitute this type of Servo Tester in place of the Pulser? I plan to try this before ordering one from Australia anyway..
Will advise..

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...vo_Tester.html

Never mind.. This servo tester can't supply the pulses properly.. This did not work.

Regards, JimS
If using a D model winch with a 2.4 ghz radio
(1) the Rx has to be powerd up through out the process thats why you need the switch on the signal lead only so the power remains on throughout.
(2) REMOVE THE DRUM before you break the boat during the process.
(3) Tx stick down fine tune down EPA set to max on both ends.
(4)At 10 beeps turn on the switch winch will read in position
(5)Turn off switch send joystick full up and turn on switch winch will read out position turn off,(Note that the winch will not move to the out position this is normal.)
(6)Pull joystick back in and turn on,winch will rotate to it's in position of your radio which you don't know where that is, that's why you disconnected the drum so you don't bust the boat up,now reinstall the drum on the correct shaft spline with the sails closehauled,moving the joystick determines the travel you desire turn off switch then rx then Tx and you're done.Power back up and you should have your travel set,if radio is capable use EPA to get it exact.
Tip put tape on the drum when disconnecting so the string won't unravel.Also sounds to me like the winch needs a good cleaning up after extraction.Cheers
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 08:08 AM
Registered User
United States, MI, Bloomfield Hills
Joined Feb 2010
576 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post
Hummm before getting a new $400 radio I think I'd rather get the recommended Pulser module or replace the 10 yr? old Winch Servo. I've been happy with the radio and have two and a buddy cable I teach friends and family on so I'm not likely to switch.. It's completely possible this winch has other issues too.. The person I got it from had loaned it to a friend who passed away very recently but has no idea if it worked when he got it back. My radio on the other hand has been flawless with several other RC boats and over 30 planes so in this situation which would u trust?
Regards,
JimS
It probably isn't the radio. The signal line switch is just to save pulling the plug in and out of the receiver like Tug said.

Product Description
For performing setup in D models and earlier SmartWinches. Not used for E models.
The signal line switch is connected between the winch and the receiver when performing setup. The way setup is controlled is by turning the signals between the receiver on and off. The method of making adjustments to the SmartWinch was devised back in 1993 when most radios in use at that time had receivers ceased sending signals to the servos when the transmitter was turned off. So it was very simple to run setup by just turning the transmitter on and off when appropriate. However this does not work with any receivers that have failsafe feature and transmitters that have a startup delay. Many FM systems and all 2.4 GHz systems can not be be used to perform setup by turning the transmitter on and off as can be done with AM systems. So the signal line switch can be used in these cases where transmitter on/off method doesn't work. Here's a link to the full instructions for the signal line switch method of controlling setup in D model and earlier SmartWinches.


The Pulser is just to get the radio to bind before the winch goes into set-up mode, it sound sounds like you are not having that problem. Is it a simple Capacitor that supplies voltage to the radio to aid binding.

You have a bunch of people in San Diego that can help you, contact any member of the local club and I am sure they will help you, including John.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 08:56 AM
Registered User
jims123's Avatar
USA, CA, San Diego 92120
Joined Oct 2007
3,088 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Tug View Post
...
(5)Turn off switch send joystick full up and turn on switch winch will read out position turn off,(Note that the winch will not move to the out position this is normal.)
(6)Pull joystick back in and turn on,winch will rotate to it's in position of your radio which you don't know where that is, that's why you disconnected the drum so you don't bust the boat up,now reinstall the drum on the correct shaft spline with the sails closehauled,moving the joystick determines the travel you desire turn off switch then rx then Tx and you're done.Power back up and you should have your travel set,if radio is capable use EPA to get it exact.
Tip put tape on the drum when disconnecting so the string won't unravel.Also sounds to me like the winch needs a good cleaning up after extraction.Cheers
Ryan.. thanks a lot for your help.
Ted.. Yes I will start poking around for another SD RMG guy here today . Yes the Tx and receiver is already bound I have no issue with the rudder.. there was a CR914 Regatta Sat and Sun here or I would have already started asking.. Hope to fixit before John gets here.

Tug.. this was very helpful.. The procedure I tried a couple times is identical except I waited for the three beeps before turning the signal sw ON at step 4 and I was expecting at 5 that the with the stick full UP the winch would move to full OUT and it did move at all.. so I did assume I was going to need a PULSER at that point.
.
I will try it again per your guide line above, and will pre-tape and release the knurled knob and take the Drum off 1st as you suggest too..Yes this JR radio is similar to a high end Spectrum and has EPA and lots of other adjustments.

Thanks Very Much for the tips.. I am surprised there is no YouTube video showing this sequence of Beeps Toggles and sheet movement .that would make this really simple to understand . I looked and couldn't find one on YT.. I also sent an e-mail and got this : so will try try via the web page instead:

Recipient: <info@rmgsailwinch.com.au>
Reason: No Such User Here

Regards,
JimS
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 10:09 AM
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hiljoball's Avatar
Canada, BC, Lake Cowichan
Joined Jul 2011
507 Posts
To reach Rob at RMG, try

rmgsw@bigpond.com

John
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 10:10 AM
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United States, MI, Bloomfield Hills
Joined Feb 2010
576 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jims123 View Post

Recipient: <info@rmgsailwinch.com.au>
Reason: No Such User Here

Regards,
JimS
Try this:

https://www.rmgsailwinch.com.au/rmg/pages/Support.html
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 01:06 PM
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USA, CA, San Diego 92120
Joined Oct 2007
3,088 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by TedFlack View Post
Ted,
Yes i have been there..will re-read and try with Tug's tips again soon..

John ..
rgr ..
e-mail to Rob sent..
Regards, JimS
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 05:23 PM
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USA, CA, San Diego 92120
Joined Oct 2007
3,088 Posts
a Generic Sail Winch Question

I'm just curious ..

Are most IOMs fitted with a Smart Sail Winch like one of those in the RMG line?

Is there another reliable plug compatible alternative that meets the class rules ?
I think I can get this one working, but it may be defective so am just planning ahead here and looking for alternatives..
Regards,
JimS
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Last edited by jims123; Oct 15, 2012 at 05:31 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 05:24 PM
Registered User
Barbados
Joined Jan 2011
2,073 Posts
i've given it to you in laymans terms,Power the winch with the radio off first and see if it beeps 5 or 10 times if it's a 5 beeper you have to throw the switch within a couple of secs of the 5 beeps same goes for a 10 beeper after that timing is not important and just follow the guidelines given hope they are clear and you understand them.Your winch sounds like it needs a good cleaning outside of the boat wd-40 on the gears and shafts and swab up with paper towel no grease it collects dirt.Spray out the motor with electronic cleaner,if it dont work it's prob the servo lead needs replacing if you're going to buy a new one then fix it your self nothing to loose. Lube it and bench run it.To your above question RMG'S are the Rolls RoyceThe alternatives are cheaper but slow not powerful and unreliable,Rob will repair that winch for you if you so desire.I believe somewone is authorized to service in the USA can't remember who.
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