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Old Feb 24, 2012, 07:03 AM
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Cape Town South Africa
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Originally Posted by 8387mike View Post
Thanks Mark, I though some like Bantock wouldn't get it wrong.

But it is still ugly.
Its hard to tell just from pictures, but it seems to have a very flat rocker line in the first third?

I dont think the design would have been compromised in any way if he had gotten rid of the mustache, but kept the same deck and waterline profile and faired in the bump. Would certainly have been prettier, but still nice to see a top designer going out on a limb.

I think its overdone ... Too narrow and not enough bouyancy up front.

The Britpop achieved its designers aims and still stayed pretty.

I had a German engineering lecturer who used to say "If it looks gud it eez gud, ya?"

The Fraktal (Grahams boat) ... does not look so good
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Last edited by Craig Richards; Feb 24, 2012 at 07:04 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 07:55 AM
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Perth Western Australia
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I agree Craig " if it looks fast it will be fast" sorry it don't. But hey neither did the Lintel and know i thing the Lintel looks great
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 08:36 AM
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United States, MI, Bloomfield Hills
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Richards View Post

The Britpop achieved its designers aims and still stayed pretty.

I had a German engineering lecturer who used to say "If it looks gud it eez gud, ya?"
Yep!

Thanks for showing us the mould making process.

Ted
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 03:02 PM
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United Kingdom, Wales, The Mumbles
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Here are a couple of snaps post sanding, well almost. There are a few spots which need a bit more attention
The pins I used were brand new but given the awful wet weather we've encountered they have rusted and stained the the hull in some places
By Clicking on' FWAL' (just to the left) you'll be linked to my RC Groups Blog where I've added more photo's etc
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 01:43 PM
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I've started the mast, fin box this afternoon. Again using balsa (why else!)
Two coats of 'West Resin' and happy days we are quids in.
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 05:22 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
Joined Dec 2009
73 Posts
IOM newsletter

If you want to read a GREAT newsletter exclusively about IOMs, check out Bob Wells' IOM in the Northwest. His March issue provides 40 pages of informative and enjoyable reading. Although the reports, photos and articles are focused on the Pacific Northwest, there is always plenty of "Global IOM material. For example there is an excellent article WITH SUBSTANCE about state of the art chined hulls. And as always there is the IOM Playmate of the Month.


go to www.seattleradiosailing.org.

Check IOM Class then check Seattle IOM Update...you will thank me.
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Old Feb 25, 2012, 06:57 PM
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Canada, BC, Maple Ridge
Joined Jul 2011
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Here is a direct ling to the March edition of this fantastic news letter.

http://www.seattleradiosailing.org/w...20MAR_2012.pdf

John
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 01:37 AM
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Cape Town South Africa
Joined Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FWAL View Post
I've started the mast, fin box this afternoon. Again using balsa (why else!)
Two coats of 'West Resin' and happy days we are quids in.
Hi Mark,

I dont seem to be able to use the "messages" section to reply to you. You can email me at richards_c at mweb dot co dot za

Sorry about mail address format, but I have already won about 200 000 000 Pounds this week and some Nigerian Prince has a golden box for me with a family fortune in it etc.


I tried to send:

Sorry about the delay. I tried sending from my Blackberry, but the site kept going back to the login page and losing the message ... oh well.

With my wider transom (140mm) boat, I had the mast as far forward as 26mm, but would still battle with weather helm at the top end of the A rig. B and C were fine.

The current boat has 20mm and may be a bit too neutral, so I may try 18mm as well. The Britpop seems to have 18mm.

I think there is an advantage to having the mast as far back in the boat as possible. Back of mast in Britpop looks to be dead centre. My current boat has the mast about 1cm ahead of centre, but I am going to move it back for the next attempt. The winch will go in front of the mast ... it used to be just behind the fin box.

The further back the mast, the better the boat behaves downwind in pressed conditions ... I think Would a boat nose dive if the mast was right on the transom? The opposite is mast on the bow ... that to my minds eye would nose dive easily.
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 04:46 AM
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Asturias, Spain
Joined Mar 2001
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Would it be possible to lenthen the jib attachment to the deck when running downwind? Logic seems to suggest that the more obtuse angle to the wind might exercise less downwards pressure on the sharp end.
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 06:51 AM
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Most of my previous racing has been in dinghies and cats which whilst going downwind are governed by the apparent wind speed, the faster you go the more apparent wind comes forward so you can sai lower. The wind always travels over the sail from luff to leach.
I'm no expert but with IOM's I'm not so sure which way the wind flows over the sails, I do have jib telltales and they suggest that it flows from luff to leach even when the jib boom is at right angles to the hull. Although, the rig would probably work more efficiently and be less prone to nose diving if the wind flowed from leach to luff. Has anybody experimented with the jib being let out beyond 90 degrees and the main trimmed in a bit, at least to a point were the shape isn't affected by the shrouds.
It's probably time to dust of the Frank Bethwaite book again!
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 07:44 AM
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Perth Western Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin richards View Post
Would it be possible to lenthen the jib attachment to the deck when running downwind? Logic seems to suggest that the more obtuse angle to the wind might exercise less downwards pressure on the sharp end.
Very interesting Martin, how would this be done?
My thoughts would be a system very similar to the auto easing cunningham on the Main. As the main boom eased out it backed off the tension on the jib attachment. But on my rig that part is under so much pressure it would destory the main. So how would/could this be done.
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 08:56 AM
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Canada, BC, Maple Ridge
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You can cause the jib to go further out (over square) than the main by moving the jib sheeting point closer to the tack, or by moving the main sheeting point further from the tack. Either allows the jib to go out further than the main.

However, I don't recommend it. My observation is that sailing with the jib over square (or even square) dead downwind is slower than having the jib slightly undersquare. Dead down wind, the flow on the jib frequently reverses - leach to luff.

The undersquare angle may allow the jib to generate some lift whereas the luff of the over square jib is blanketed behind the main, making it harder to get any attached flow and so it operates in total drag, and worse, spills wind forward off the leach.

John
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 09:13 AM
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Canada, BC, Maple Ridge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Richards View Post
Hi Mark,

With my wider transom (140mm) boat, I had the mast as far forward as 26mm, but would still battle with weather helm at the top end of the A rig. B and C were fine.

The current boat has 20mm and may be a bit too neutral, so I may try 18mm as well. The Britpop seems to have 18mm.
Hi Craig,

It took me a couple of moments to figure that you are talking about 'lead' - the distance that the mast is ahead of the fin.

It is normal to experience weather helm at top of rig conditions - that's natures way of telling you to switch down.

But there are things you can do to reduce the weather helm/broaching at top of rig conditions, mainly to depower the main.

I assume that you have done the normal tuning for the stronger wind: - mast vertical, plenty of backstay to flatten the main, flatten the foot to about 20mm draft,

1. put slightly more twist in the main by easing the vang half a turn or more
2. Move the main sheet adjustment out a couple of notches at close hauled

John
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 09:52 AM
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Asturias, Spain
Joined Mar 2001
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8387mike View Post
Very interesting Martin, how would this be done?
My thoughts would be a system very similar to the auto easing cunningham on the Main. As the main boom eased out it backed off the tension on the jib attachment. But on my rig that part is under so much pressure it would destory the main. So how would/could this be done.
As this is an IOM thread, no extra servo would be allowed. You'd need, I guess, an extra 10 cms approx of jib attachment/sheet via some sort of cam arrangement directly attached to the winch output.
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 03:52 PM
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United Kingdom, Wales, The Mumbles
Joined Dec 2010
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Hi John
Thanks for the Jib tip I have been setting my jib at 90 degrees to the hull as that's what's I was advised to do when I bought my first IOM, I'll bring it in very slightly next Sunday.
Can I ask how far out you let your main? At present my boom touches the shroud adjusters but I'm never impressed when I see a horrible srroud crease going up the main. I often wonder if I should bring the boom in slightly to reduce the crease and improve the shpae of the main.
I'll go and have another look at those Worlds video's again
Been productive this evening and gave the hull it's first coat of fibre glass and resin. I lay the outside 200g/m2 fibre glass at 45 degrees to the hull and prior to offering it up I give the hull a light spray of Craft Mount, works a treat
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