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Old Sep 13, 2011, 02:10 PM
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Canada, BC, Victoria
Joined Mar 2004
1,491 Posts
Any thoughts on Canadian suppliers? I found leadingedgehobbies.com has a "KDH" brand, and Sails etc carry Hales. Is there a difference in the parts? I lost some parts of the block from a friends boat, so want to replace it with a good one.
Colin
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Old Sep 13, 2011, 03:32 PM
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Canada, BC, Lake Cowichan
Joined Jul 2011
491 Posts
Hi Colin

Hales are much better, in my opinion.

If you cannot get one from one of the guys in Victoria, I have one that I can let you have. (I am in Parksville) I can get it to you at the Cowichen event if that works or if any of the Victoria sailors are at Long Lake this Friday. The cost is $17.

John
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Old Sep 14, 2011, 10:49 PM
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Canada, BC, Victoria
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hiljoball View Post
Very first sail of my new scratch built, Brad Gibson designed SKA (in yellow). The grey boat is a Topico.

John
I presume that 50 is Ron's boat. That would be an Italiko. Still a very good boat but reasonably different from a Topiko.

The yellow boat looks good. Should have been at the Nationals, only needed one rig.

-Barry
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 11:42 AM
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Barbados
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Is there an entry list out for the nats in Fla ??
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 12:10 PM
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Germany
Joined Mar 2009
513 Posts
Hi guys, I'm sailing IACC 120 in Europe and just like to ask if any get top IOM guys are sanding their competion hulls for less water resistance ?

Cheers Alan
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 12:33 PM
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United Kingdom, London
Joined Jun 2005
850 Posts
Hi Alan,
My club mate owns an ex Bantock Topico which has the hull sanded down below the waterline I looked at Graham Bantocks new Pikanto this weekend and the hull was shiney, I cannot comment if it improves the performace although I have heard it should do in very light winds
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 03:14 PM
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Joined Jul 2011
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Several years ago when my first Isis was getting a bit battle weary I decided to wet and dry the hull down. I started with 800 grade and finished with 1500. I was very pleased with the surface and expected a noticable difference in performance.
I got that OK but in the wrong direction.
Boats that I would usually beat or at least give a good run for their money absolutely stuffed me. At the end of the first run I was half the leg behind and at the end of the race it was embaresing them having to wait for me to finish.
Before the following weekend I put a polishing mop over the hull with some cutting paste and then degreased,. Hey presto performance returned.
Nowadays I just keep the hull degreased using old fashioned bath scouring powder.

Before this I had a wooden boat with a painted bottom. It was sprayed with auto aerosol, firstly with cellulose then later I refinished with Acrylic. Once again performance dropped off, went back to cellulose and was fine again.
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 04:23 PM
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Canada, BC, Victoria
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Are you saying a super smooth finish slowed you down? I don't understand what you said about the polishing mop or cellulose finish. Can you explain?
Thanks!
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 04:49 PM
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Joined Jul 2011
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What I found was the matt finish killed my speed. After polishing and then degreasing my speed returned.
I found a cellulose finish faster than the acrylic, I think to do with the way water disperses on it.
I'me sure there will be some more technicaly minded than me that will comment but I only speak as I found.
I think a fine matt surface works OK on boats with greater water speed over the hull but I am not sure that the same goes for our boats with relatively slow speeds.
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 06:33 PM
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United States, AZ, Chandler
Joined Jul 2004
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The slightly rougher hull surface helps to break the water tension and actually reduces drag. The polar water molecules will align to create surface tension against say a waxed or highly polished hull. A textured surface will cause the water molecules to arrange more randomly and will sheet off across the surface.
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Old Sep 27, 2011, 02:44 AM
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United Kingdom, London
Joined Jun 2005
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hull surface

I will say that when I have seen water dripped over the hull on the roughed surface the water beads and runs off unlike the shiney surface, but there's no way I'm roughing up my expensive boat!
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Old Sep 27, 2011, 05:54 AM
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Germany
Joined Mar 2009
513 Posts
Hi Toni, I don't know enough about behaviour of water on different surfaces, but from my experience beading is not a good thing for boats (but great for car wind-screens) tends to represent what rotorcycle calls water tension with water turning into balls (turbulence).

The sheeting of water across a surface is what I'm thinking for boats which to my mind represents no tension (drag).

Imagining sanding fibre hull where there is a mico-scopic fur finish that feels smooth to touch but is in actual fact it is causing tension and rolling water into beads, however if you coat the fibre with hard resin type coating (I think this is what Psychosis calls cellulose finish) and then sand it, the water sheets off easily indcating to my simple mind there was reduced tension.

I tried before and after on the same day sanding on one hull and over 500 metres on numerous runs it was 3-4 boat lengths quicker when bench marked against another boat in same wind conditions, sailing approx 1 metre apart.

Nothing conclusive though, hence the reason for asking more knowledgable people here their opinions.

Cheers Alan
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Old Sep 27, 2011, 09:14 AM
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Mandeville, La.
Joined Mar 2007
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competitors list

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Tug View Post
Is there an entry list out for the nats in Fla ??
Peter,

The list is on the NCR site:
http://2011iomncr.wordpress.com/
Only 8 so far
2 of us from La. will be attending, but not registered yet.
Still trying to finish my Lintel rigs

Al
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 07:02 AM
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USA-Michigan
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108 Posts
I'll be there, I owe Peter a beer from a little wager we had about the Worlds.

Ted
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 09:42 AM
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Barbados
Joined Jan 2011
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Watch your step,i usually drink more than one after a raceday lol.I'd just love to know who's coming as we usually have a good time at that venue.It's one of the better racetracks in the US if it blows.
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