I have had no luck getting any one that sells this plane to respond to my emails about obtaining a new canopy. If anyone has one from a crashed bird I'd like to buy it. I glued mine back together but it's pretty ugly.

seadog
try parkflyerplastics.com they have some F18 canopies or if you have your old broken one he can make you a new one from it. great guy and very reasonably priced

i've bought some of their products before. didn't know they could/would do small quantity work. i'll check with them. their product would be more durable i would think. thanks

Originally Posted by seadog985

i've bought some of their products before. didn't know they could/would do small quantity work. i'll check with them. their product would be more durable i would think. thanks

if you look at the canopies you will see a Het 90mm F18 canopy that was mine that he made his molds from and his pricing was extremely reasonable and quality well I don't know how it could have been better thats how good it was. he has a F18 canopy in there that Kevin Cox sent him I think the model number is KCF18 that one will be real close to what you need you may be able to make it work if you want an exact copy then email him and have him make one up for you

If you but the cockpit kit they usually come with a new canopy!! Just confirm that when you order!

bri, i tried that with a couple of venders but they did not respond to verify. you would think a quick email to make a sale would be no problem and if you can't answer an email you don't get my business.

Originally Posted by bri6672

SLOWWWWW DOWN everybody!!!

I have flown mine right at 90mm and it flew fine like that! I think that you do have to be on the money and balance it properly at 90mm and that is probably about as far back as you could go.

Most companies provide a very concervative CG (Just ask John about this with his HET F-18!!) They probably decided to provide a more conservative setting and have the customer move it back as needed.

Burdo, glad you found that and it is important but in my experience with jets CG is a bit more critical, if it is to nose heavy you will have alot of other issues to deal with as well! Jets are not trainers and are not for beginners PERIOD! So getting the CG setup just right is critical and if its to nose heavy it might only fly once as well!

On my last 2 flights of my ProDesign F-18 I set it to 90mm with a slight nose drop. I found the 9mm elevator travel was not enough! I then switched to highrates per the manual, still not enough elevator. So on the second flight I moved the cg back to 90mm on the money using a persicion alluminum Southwest Sytems EZ Balancer. The plane flew much better at this setting and the highrate control throw felt good. I had even added a third rate (using JR flightmodes) with an even bigger throw than the stock high rate and that allowed it to fly around alot nicer but It also led to a stall on downwind to base.

I think the 50%expo is probably too much and it makes the jet feel very sluggish on the elevator until you hit the curve and then it can cause a stall etc.

When I finish my next one I am going to maiden it with these settings:

1) 9mm with 15% expo
2) 9mm with 40% expo
3) 15mm with 50% expo

This will give me some options in the air to get a better feel for the elevator. I am going to take off with #2 and then I have some options from there...

After looking at the discrepancies between the different manuals for this jet I don't feel as bad for my maiden performance . If I had more thrust I may have been able to bumble around a few more circuits before dragging it onto the runway. I elected to go to "high rates" for elevator to try and improve my 'save' . In the video that is where the F 18 E goes moon shot and flutters into no control. The files posted on HK show 80mm from the LE.
Building for bungee ! as the damage was light , all gear and nose cone , so we may go again before the snow comes!

Thank you John.

I am almost finished with the front gear doors, tonight I am going to share some photos and video.

Also I am planning to start to the main gear doors, you can see my drawing from the photos.

Here are my numbers in order, starting from the longest line;

9.4cm & 2.9cm & 1.8cm & 5.7cm & 1.9cm & 1.9cm

Ok here is my Front retract doors #1 and #2;

Front retract doors for Prodesign (Pro-EDF) F-18 (3 min 46 sec)

I made a huge mistake in my design and initially I cut the door #1 and #2 together as one piece, later I realized that the hinges are not in the same line, that causes in proper open & close, that's why I separated them into 2 different doors... My first idea was to keep those doors together and make work them with a single servo and the second servo supposed to be used with the door which also supposed to be on the hole right over on the retract itself.

Now I already used two servos and I don't want to use another one, that's why either I will keep the hole open, or I will arrange a door for that open area and glue it to the door #2 and make them work together. One another idea to connect the new door to the door #2 with a spring system, so the door numbers 1 & 2 will going to work in same sequence while the new, 3rd one will stuck to the strut and keep open while the landing gear open.

Ozgur

Ozgur, that is some nice work. Thanks for the pics and video.

You are well come seadog985.

Thanks,
Ozgur

Guys I need some help!!

I also start that battery hatch mod and ended like a disaster.
I made a huge mistake, initially as everybody I started with cutting, my only difference from some of you, I decide to keep the hatch smaller than the rest of you.

Ok, I finished the cutting process fairly good. But I decide to give some break for a couple of days, when I come back to my build, I realize that the piece which I already cut and the fuselage area lost their form!!!

I think I fixed this problem for the hatch, but I need a template or an idea how correct size of balsa plate for the fuse part?

Ozgur

Ozgur
your doing it right, use the bottom of your hatch as a template to get you close and then trial and fit it. glue the whole thing in like the bottom of your hatch and cut out the opening after it cures
lookin good

Some times very easy details couldn't comes to minds... Thanks...

John,
I bought "turnigy delux 120HV" esc for my setup. Because of my fan/motor setup quite heavy, 460gr, and this turnigy esc is already big enough, in terms of its size, it is impossible for me to keep the esc in the exit ducting area or somewhere behind the fan.

I am planning to place it right behind the batteries, do you think to keep it inside the fuse as it is, or maybe I can open a hole on the intake duct area and sink the esc halfway down, or maybe I can do the same think on the bottom of the fuselage, what is your suggestion?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ler_OPTO_.html

Some of other builders prefer to keep the esc in an airflow because of the heat you know, but my system will going to consume max 87amps.

Ozgur

Ozgur
we are using basically the same size controller (CC ice2 120amp) and are going to install it behind the batt but on its side all the way back between the ducts our plan is to drill three 1/4in holes in the ducting where it meets for the fan to pull air from the battery and esc compartment. the other two ideas are good also and we thought about doing the exact same things so your on the right track, we are going to try between the ducts first and if thats not enough cooling then we will consider cutting a hole in the intake duct or possible the bottom fuse. with regaurds to the esc on its side we are going to make a plywood esc stand to mount the esc to and then use velcro to mount the stand to the floor of the fuse mostly to just keep the esc from moving around too much but makes for an easily servicable esc

Thank you John,

Did you finished the battery tray mod? Is it possible for you to post some pictures about it?

Ozgur