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Old Jun 10, 2010, 09:32 PM
American Exile
Germany, BB, Nauen
Joined Jan 2009
343 Posts


Nose image
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Old Jun 10, 2010, 10:14 PM
Slope Sauce
trees's Avatar
White Salmon WA
Joined Oct 2009
770 Posts
No problem. The options are a bit confusing at first but it all makes sense once you get used to it.
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Old Jun 10, 2010, 11:20 PM
Wood Chucker
Lacquerhead's Avatar
USA, TX, Allen
Joined Nov 2009
1,449 Posts
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Originally Posted by xbted View Post
[IMG]
Nose image
You could probably call them and/or send them an e-mail with the photo attached. I suspect they'd be willing to either explain why your fears are unfounded or swap the center section with you. I seriously doubt it would make a structural difference beyond having to add a slight bit more weight to the nose. I'm using the 4x1/3AA pack they sell and I still needed to add lead to the nose to get it to balance correctly. I'll also add my name to the list of people that say this model is EASILY the best value in gliders.
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Old Jun 10, 2010, 11:41 PM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
Glendale, AZ
Joined Jun 2008
2,086 Posts
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Originally Posted by xbted View Post


Nose image
Looks like the one I got last year, and my new one. Don't worry about it. It will probably get pushed back by your 3rd toss!
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Old Jun 12, 2010, 01:35 PM
Planes, Guitars and Cigars
Steve_A_Reno's Avatar
Joined May 2002
3,171 Posts
My bellyskid never seemed to mold correctly to the shape of the fuse. Now after some repair and a few nose ins, it is way off. Tape keeps coming up and at the back it is a good 1/8 inch above the fuse. Any suggestion to correct this?
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Old Jun 12, 2010, 01:41 PM
a.k.a. Bob Parks
Glendale, AZ
Joined Jun 2008
2,086 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_A_Reno View Post
My bellyskid never seemed to mold correctly to the shape of the fuse. Now after some repair and a few nose ins, it is way off. Tape keeps coming up and at the back it is a good 1/8 inch above the fuse. Any suggestion to correct this?
I wrapped 2" masking tape completely around the nose after the crash that resulted in a broken nose. Also used a couple small carbon rod pieces to reinforcce the break area. I just pushed them through the foam so they spanned the break. It has been fine since.

If you want to re-shape the nose, try some Gorilla PU glue, mixed with some of the super light weight spackle and some water. It is easy to apply, and easy to sand off after it dries. I have done this on many different models as filler.
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Old Jun 12, 2010, 01:51 PM
The Real J
flyingj's Avatar
Ogden, Utah
Joined Nov 2004
4,817 Posts
I ended up cutting off the first couple of inches from the Alula nose, glued an EPP block of foam, then carved and sanded it to shape. Looks good and now it has bounce if it hits the nose. I cut the belly pan back just as I did on my Wevo and I don't experience cracking anymore either.
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Old Jun 12, 2010, 02:08 PM
Planes, Guitars and Cigars
Steve_A_Reno's Avatar
Joined May 2002
3,171 Posts
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Originally Posted by flyingj View Post
I ended up cutting off the first couple of inches from the Alula nose, glued an EPP block of foam, then carved and sanded it to shape. Looks good and now it has bounce if it hits the nose. I cut the belly pan back just as I did on my Wevo and I don't experience cracking anymore either.
Ah. I see. The leverage of the belly skid on the nose increases the pressure on the neck causing the break. I like the way you solved the problem.
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Old Jun 12, 2010, 03:34 PM
Slope Sauce
trees's Avatar
White Salmon WA
Joined Oct 2009
770 Posts
If the skid is securely taped to the pod before and after the leading edge it would strengthen the pod not leverage the joint. It is hard to securely tape behind the LE because you can't wrap so I put a little hot glue under the rear portion of the skid to keep it firmly attached. This, good taping in front of the LE and two carbon ribbons spanning the pod all the way back to the opening on the top and my nose is bomber. I've nailed it into the ground countless times with no issues. Hitting rocks and such eventually does break the tip of the skid and chews up a little foam on the very tip of the pod at which point I trade a little nose weight with hot glue to re-form the nose and it becomes even stronger. The first 4-5mm of my Alula's nose is now formed from hot glue and it's very tough. Since doing this on my Alula I now coat the nose of all my foamies with a thin layer of hot glue. It's magic.
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Old Jun 12, 2010, 08:23 PM
American Exile
Germany, BB, Nauen
Joined Jan 2009
343 Posts
Okay, pretty much finished building and coloring the Alula, did a really simple scheme on the top and drew a radar weather map of a line of thunderstorms on the bottom. The nose didn't cause any issues, frankly, I was more concerned if it was ok to sand the stuff on the front, so I'm pretty happy

Hopefully I'll have a nice calm day tomorrow to maiden my little bird, I'm really looking forward to it.
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Old Jun 12, 2010, 10:10 PM
Mike M.
like.2.fly's Avatar
United States, UT, Eden
Joined Jan 2010
4,787 Posts
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Originally Posted by xbted View Post
...did a really simple scheme on the top and drew a radar weather map of a line of thunderstorms on the bottom...
Be sure to post some pics for us.
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Old Jun 13, 2010, 12:10 AM
The Real J
flyingj's Avatar
Ogden, Utah
Joined Nov 2004
4,817 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve_A_Reno View Post
Ah. I see. The leverage of the belly skid on the nose increases the pressure on the neck causing the break. I like the way you solved the problem.
Actually the EPP and secure taping of the pod relieves the tendency for the foam to crack. Cutting the pod back keeps the pod from breaking. Since I cut it back it gets scratched, but it doesn't crack or break anymore.
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Old Jun 13, 2010, 09:20 PM
American Exile
Germany, BB, Nauen
Joined Jan 2009
343 Posts
Maidened the Alula a few minutes ago- wow it flies great. Anyway, decided to go with a thunderstorm scheme, considering our weather lately. Here's a couple pics

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Old Jun 14, 2010, 05:54 AM
geez, I hope no-one saw that!
Ballarat
Joined Apr 2010
67 Posts
Threw mine off the hill today in a little wind and I'm starting to get the hang of it. I find that as soon as I begin to turn, the nose drops. If I apply some up elevator at the same time I can keep the attitude level but it's certainly a sensitive ship. Is this what everyone is doing or does it sound like my cg's a little off? (right in the dimples although I haven't had it high enough to attempt a dive test yet).
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Old Jun 14, 2010, 06:13 AM
I scratchbuilt my SUPRA
Switzerland, AG, Lenzburg
Joined Jan 2006
1,873 Posts
defenitely off, I flight mine with the CG behing the dimples as suggested by Michael. And it can fly slow in small thermals, or fast on slope, I can make small snap (slope race) turns with a bit of energy also launch it without any preset on that CG point. CG is your friend.

EZ
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