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Old Jun 12, 2001, 12:55 AM
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Zebulon, NC
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Great planes Slow Poke??

I am going to convert the .20 size to electric, I have read the past posts and know there is an artical in the july 2000 issues of S+E modeler on this plane, anyone have a copy they want to sell or copy the artical?
What did they use in the article? I am thinking a astro cobalt 05 and 8 cells should be fine. I know someone is using 10 cells on a astro but that is probably too much for the motor to handle very long, plus I don't want to have to make up 10 cell packs when I have all 8 cell ones now.
Anyone flying one?
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Old Jun 13, 2001, 01:28 AM
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Zebulon, NC
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Somebody must have the article or has converted this one, anybody???
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Old Jun 13, 2001, 08:11 AM
Visitor from Reality
United States, VA, Arlington
Joined Dec 1996
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Cue
Someone did a review of the small SP in SEM last year.

Having heard of a few, couple of ideas FWIW -

Fit ailerons! Low wing on rudder / ele is not for the faint hearted, either put ailerons outboard of the dihedral break - an oft seen mod in oilyland - or build the wing with flat panels and straight dihedral from the middle and full span ailerons. Just like the SP 40 version.

It's also got a vast amount of wood in it, so a careful eyeball around the structure could result in a lower bill from Mr. Gravity.

Ten cells - I ran an Astro 035G on ten cells at 30A for three years and it is still fine. Got my first ten cell packs by dismantling/resoldering 3 x 7 cell packs.

The SP wing area definitely suggests ten cells. Trouble is, you try ten cells on your average 8 cell motor, you won't want to go back to 8 and if someone mentions seven, you develop a urge to fall over laughing.

If you don't believe me, search for GWRIGHT on Kyosho Endoplasma motors. What he's done to unsuspecting Endo's and $15.00 US gearboxes is well worth a read.

Regards

Dereck
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Old Jun 13, 2001, 08:14 AM
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new rochelle, ny
Joined Dec 2000
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I don't have the article, but I did do a little research. All of the specs for the plane are listed at the Tower Hobbies web site. What I found interesting was that the description included a statement that 8 to 10 onces of weight are usually required in the nose. The projected weight is supposed to be 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 pounds. I would think that if the plane is "lightened" especially the portion behind the center of gravity, and if the battery pack was placed properly, no additional ballast would need to be added. The Tower Hooby site also included a statement that it could be easily converted to electric using a Astro 15 Geared or a MEC Turbo Motor.

I ran the numbers through ElectriCalc and have the following results:

8 cell 2400 RC pack
MEC Turbo 10 motor geared 6:1
28.9 amps
11x10 prop
4.7 minutes at full throttle
242 motor watts
187 prop watts
plane weight 56 oz.
656 in2 wing area
.080 drag coeff.
69 watts/lb
770 ft/min climb rate
31 Degree climb angle
max speed 42 MPH

Numbers using a geared astro flight 05 were similar.

Overall this looks like a very "do-able" project. Let me know how you make out. I think one of the modifications I would make to the plane would be to add some ailerons to the outboard panels of the wing. Other than that I think the plane would look and fly great...best of luck...Eric

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Old Jun 13, 2001, 03:51 PM
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Texas
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Several people have posted on the Slow Poke/05 (geared) or similar planes.
http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/Forum1/HTML/007042.html

Michael in Toronto
Senior Member
Posts: 81
From:Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Registered: Oct 2000
posted 05-20-2001 12:19
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I use an Astro 05 geared cobalt motor (with 10 2000mah batteries and a 12/5 propellor at about 30 amps) to fly my Great Planes SlowPoke, which is supposed to use a .15 to .20 type engine. This is about the limit to this size electric motor.
I don't fly at full throttle fro too long in order to keep the motor from getting too hot. Otherwise, the plane flies well, climbs well, takes off from grass, and glides well.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Also: http://www.ezonemag.com/disc/Forum1/HTML/006080.html
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Old Jun 13, 2001, 04:21 PM
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Zebulon, NC
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I saw that post, thats why I said in my original I knew someone was using 10 cells but I didnt want to use 10 cells.
Thanks anyway
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Old Jun 13, 2001, 04:28 PM
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Raleigh, NC
Joined Nov 2000
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Cue, Have you already bought the kit? I ask because I have one about 70-80% completed that I'd be willing to sell you. I'm moving across town in July, and its taking up a lot of room... I kind of put it on hold when I started the Bird of Time.

Let me know. I'll let it go for a reasonable price.

Scott

BTW, fuse is almost completely framed up, wing is almost done (but the 3 sections not joined as I was going to make it flat, not dihedralled), tail feathers done, covered in monokote cub yellow and I think they've been hinged. You're welcome to come take a look if you want.

TTYL
Scott
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Old Jun 13, 2001, 04:31 PM
E-flyer since 1981
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I've been flying an electric Slow Poke for over a year now; it is one of the best and most reliable flying planes I have.

After some trouble at the beginning, I've worked out a few bugs and it is now terrific.



I use:
Astro Cobalt 05 geared (regular gear box, not super gear box)
12/5 prop - this helps with great thrust but slow speed - good for takes-offs from grass - and the low pitch allows me to use a
10 cell 2000mah battery pack - for great climbing and take-off power
Astro 30amp (or 35 amp, I'm not sure) speed control with BEC - this speed control can handle up to 10 cells.
Standard size servos.
No weight-saving techniques used.

I also didn't want to make 10 cell packs, so I use 8 cell packs - which I also use in other planes - but wired in series with a 2 cell pack of same mah. Of course, all 10 cells need to be discharged before charging to make sure the batteries charge equally.

VERY IMPORTANT:
To make taking off grass easier, I use 4" or 4" light wheels.

To avoid serious trim problems, make sure the motor is mounted with at least as much right thrust as indicated for the gas engine.
I don't use any downthrust.

Don't use full throttle for the full flight; it won't need it, plus your flights will be longer.

The plane takes off, climbs, loops, glides, does stall turns, but won't roll (no ailerons).
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Old Jun 14, 2001, 12:25 AM
I broke it
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USA, NC, Clayton
Joined Feb 2001
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Scott,

You got anything else you're selling? I might be interested in it if Steve's not...
Were'nt you wanting a simple 400? Trades?
Email me at Gofli@aol.com..

Later,
David
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Old Jun 14, 2001, 12:31 AM
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Zebulon, NC
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Already sent you mail Scott, Im interested.
I will call you tomorrow.
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Old Jun 19, 2001, 11:07 AM
MK
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NJ
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Cue, I have the article. Another E-Zoner sent it to me awhile ago. If you are interested, send me an e-mail with your snail mail address and I'll make a copy for you.
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Old Jun 19, 2001, 06:45 PM
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Lynnwood, WA USA
Joined Jan 2000
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Has any converted or considered converting the Sport 40 to electric?

MMGM
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Old Jun 19, 2001, 07:26 PM
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Angola, IN USA
Joined Mar 2000
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I fly the IC version with Saito 30. Mine will roll (but it's not pretty....)
I bent my landing gear forward putting the front edge of the wheel in front of the leading wing edge, and it makes takeoffs and landings much easier and much less gear bending backwards. I have a "Harry Higly Ultra Heavy Hub" to balance the plane, even with the heavier engine. A very pretty flier, would almost certainly be better with electric. Ailerons might be fun, and If I ever try it again I'll do that. I'm sure my endoplasma with 2.8 -3.0 gearing would fly this plane easily, especially without all that nose weight.

DPW
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Old Jun 20, 2001, 12:03 AM
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I got a copy of it already, thanks
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Old Jun 20, 2001, 12:34 AM
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Moorefield, Ontario, Canada
Joined Mar 2001
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Quote:
I have read the past posts and know there is an artical in the july 2000 issues of S+E modeler on this plane, anyone have a copy they want to sell or copy the artical?
I wrote that article. I flew it (and still do) on 7xRC2000, EndoPlasma 3:1, and currently, a 10x7 APC electric prop. At the time I built it, there was no mention on the Tower web site about needing nose weight, but I believe it. My battery pack is right up against the firewall, and I still had to add a weighted spinner and regular (heavy) APC prop to get it to balance where indicated on the plans. Over time, I experimented with moving the CG back a bit, and now fly with the electric (much lighter) APC prop and a plastic spinner, which has knocked 2.5oz off the weight. It still flies fine, with no bad habits, even though the CG has moved back about 1/4" or so.

In the winter, I fly this plane from skis, and that works great too ( http://www.capable.ca/rcstuff/skis.html ).

My one beef with this plane is that it seems really easy to bend the landing gear. I'm sure it's just my technique, but I don't usually bend landing gear.
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