|Feb 02, 2010, 02:42 PM|
I used epoxy and fiberglass. I also put 2 small CF tubes over the break as well. It feels pretty strong, but I won't know how good it holds. I did sand the inside and clean out all debris before setting up the glass and epoxy.
Hopefully it holds long term. the only evidence is a visible hairline on the outside of the break. I'll post pics soon.
|Feb 02, 2010, 05:03 PM|
The plane continued to bank and roll and eventually did a nose dive and cart wheel all in one.The wing came off...no damage and the fuse snapped in half right at the back wing mount. The wing mount was still connected to the wing....again...no damage to the wing....
I would say that you were very lucky to have had such minimal damage from your crash. A clean break is so much easier to fix than egg shell/crush/rip/tear damage.
I make my planes to fly well, rather than to crash/cartwheel well .
Again, the Alps looks to be much better than the preceeding planes - Omei and Mouton.
|Feb 06, 2010, 12:33 AM|
I got some shop time today
I got to sneak out to the shop for a little while. The more I look at this ARF, the more I like it. I hemmed and hawed a while over motor selection.
In the end it came to... I have folding prop adaptors for 5mm shafted motors, and none on hand for 4mm motors. Of the 5mm motors, only one was mount-ready and not from a plane from the fix-it pile and it almost fit the fuse. I drilled a hole just behind the fire wall to allow the wires to run eternal and re-enter the fuse through a slightly enlarged air vent. I have zero worries about the strength of the fuse. The metal plate will distribute the firewall loads nicely. Take your time and measure twice before you drill.
Elevator servo mounted
3s 20c 2200
Setteled to 380 watts steady after a few seconds.
I can't wait to get home and finish this great little kit.
|Feb 07, 2010, 09:44 AM|
I'm now out of town, thanks to work. Can I get an ALPS owner to measure the metal face plate for me? The spinner I had is just a bit too big and I don't remember what size it is. Thanks fellas.
I got the stab mounted and the elevator pushrod halfway installed. When I get back, I hope to have my new Aurora 9 in hand for this plane. I just have the wings to complete before I'm ready to launch this one.
Again, if you've seen the Mouton, the ALPS is twice the plane. I'm looking forward to flying this one ;D
|Feb 07, 2010, 03:04 PM|
I can't edit from my mobile...I read back through the posts and saw that 38mm is the suggested spimmer. Thanks guys.
((ttyyyuuyhutyyt I re
|Feb 25, 2010, 03:31 PM|
Austin, TX, 78746
Joined Nov 2008
help with ALPS modifications
A Blizzard substitute--- strenghing mods on Alps
Hi all you Alps and Blizzard owners,
I just ordered one of these because they are so cheap and I liked the size and looks. I want to learn to fly fast sailplanes. I have tried the multiplex Blizzard and while I flew it successfully a few times, it was a hard plane to like. The build was awful and its small size made it hard to track in the sky. It had a v-tail and was made of foam-- both of which I don't prefer in a fast plane.
The Alps is about the right size for a "warmliner". I know it can't perform like a more expensive molded sailplane but I have hopes that it can compete with the Blizzard if some mods can be made. I noticed that someone put 650 watts in the predecessor of the Alps( the Omei) and flew it successfully. See it here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...highlight=omei
I will be examining this model carefully to see what I can do to add strength to the wings and fuselage if need be-- Add some carbon fibre rods maybe? Put another layer of shrink coating on it or even stretch colored tape? ( when the Blizzard developed wing flutter Multiplex did an insert with the instructions suggesting putting some fibre reinforced tape on the outer wings. ) Unlike others here--I want the wing halves to be permanetly joined for strength.
I am not opposed to opening up the wings but I doubt I will try that without doing something easier first. At a cost of $100.00 for the ALPS, I can afford to experiment. Hope this thread stays alive. I will have mine in about a week and will start to post my ideas. All of you others out there start posting your experience and suggestions.
|Feb 25, 2010, 05:00 PM|
Looks to be a pretty neet looking plane!
Can someone clarify the makeup of this plane?
Is the fuse more like an ABS plastic than a glass layup? Also, the mfr. says the wing is balsa ribbed, would that be balsa sheeted as well, with the standard plastic coat type covering kinda like the Multiplex gliders, Ions, and Siren type planes?
|Feb 25, 2010, 05:09 PM|
Fuse is heavyier than ABS and it will take glue/epoxy bonds. It is hard to cut and not too bad to drill. It reminds me of nylon rather than milk jug.
The wing is built up balsa with full sheeting, covered in shrink-covering. Easy as could be to assemble.
Glue on stab
Mount servos pushrods an horns
Install radio esc and motor
Join wings, fly and grin!
|Feb 25, 2010, 05:15 PM|
Yup....pretty easy build here.
I think I may put another motor and give it another try.
I have a Turnigy 3536 motor - TR 35-36B 1300kv Brushless Outrunner
I need to find an appropriate prop and get it mounted and keep the wires away from motor, but I think this will be a good motor.
|Feb 25, 2010, 05:30 PM|
I don't know. Looks like wood spar with 6mm dia.joiner. See previous post about rebuilding joiner as coffin box. The airfoil is not super fast like MH32 foil. I fly my fast planes very smooth on the sticks. 700 watts is a lot for this frame IMHO.
|Feb 25, 2010, 08:53 PM|
I was wondering what you guys think about my idea of permenently joining the wing halves with expoy, then once the servo extensions are run, dripping gorilla glue inside to join/fill the whole center section togeather?...
I've actually done this before with an ebt trainer from 3dhobbyshop and it's worked out great.... (my first ebt broke the wings inhalf prior)
also, what are you guys doing to mount the motors, do you drill the metal plate, and are you reinforcing the nose area?
Thanks for the info...
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