Yea, i have that camera also FirePower, its a good image plus it's very good at handling low light. Please pay close attention to the little white plug on the back of the cam, my one was dodgy.

Cheers, Kev.

Originally Posted by Firepower

I mentioned the clear negative as a filter to fix the white trees. I only have slides which did not work. I can not find a negative yet to try it.

These guys list some board camera lenses with integral ir cutoff filter, might be an option. I have also wondered about cutting a small piece from cheap sunglasses and sticking that in front of the camera.

I know that using dark film (exposed negative film, or unexposed slide film) is meant to be a pretty good IR transmitting filter. But is the reverse true, is clear film (unexposed negative film, exposed slide film) an IR cut filter?

Originally Posted by flyinthesky

These guys list some board camera lenses with integral ir cutoff filter, might be an option. I have also wondered about cutting a small piece from cheap sunglasses and sticking that in front of the camera.

I know that using dark film (exposed negative film, or unexposed slide film) is meant to be a pretty good IR transmitting filter. But is the reverse true, is clear film (unexposed negative film, exposed slide film) an IR cut filter?

The lenses with IR filters are pretty dear in that it would be better to buy something like this that does not have the problem - 540TVL high resolution 1/3 SONY CCD at US$43.

But if someone has a white tree one I suppose the IR lens will fix it. But I suppose just wait for a camera with a good lens to die and pinch its lens.

I started to buy some crap cameras as there was not much around that I found but there seems to be a lot more good cameras around now even on ebay.

Originally Posted by Kev.au

Yea, i have that camera also FirePower, its a good image plus it's very good at handling low light. Please pay close attention to the little white plug on the back of the cam, my one was dodgy.

Cheers, Kev.

Thanks for the advice on the camera plug.

Originally Posted by Firepower

The lenses with IR filters are pretty dear in that it would be better to buy something like this that does not have the problem - 540TVL high resolution 1/3 SONY CCD at US$43.

But if someone has a white tree one I suppose the IR lens will fix it. But I suppose just wait for a camera with a good lens to die and pinch its lens.

I started to buy some crap cameras as there was not much around that I found but there seems to be a lot more good cameras around now even on ebay.

I have a collection of lenses from dead cameras that are collecting dust. You are welcome to pick through them if you want.
Send back whats unused.
PM your address if you are interested.
Cheers
Frank

Originally Posted by ommadawn

I have a collection of lenses from dead cameras that are collecting dust. You are welcome to pick through them if you want.
Send back whats unused.
PM your address if you are interested.
Cheers
Frank

Frank

Sounds like you have been doing FPV for quite a while going by the number of cameras you have had. I have just put together the pan/tilt, bought two 900mhz receivers and patch and just ordered tonight the EagleEyes.

I do have two good cameras that give white trees so another lens may fix the problem. Very king of the offer of a lens is appreciated. I'll PM you shortly.

Thanks
Col

Hi Lads,

This is what happens when you try to fly a new camera, right on sunset too close to the trees.

Tricopter in Tree (1 min 21 sec)

...

Hello Hoppy and welcome to the thread.

The only thing I would say is DON'T fly FPV with Spektrum gear. SO many people have lost their bird because of lockouts. I myself had a lockout at about 400m. Yes I have been out to 1.5Km too, but I would never do it again.

The Dragon Link and Thomas LRS are both fine systems, although illegal in Australia.

The best solution and to stay legal is to use 36Mhz RC with a good quality RX. We have members that have gone 5kms on 36Mhz without an issue.

Incidentally guys - I am looking at grabbing some Futaba RXs for a couple of our customers, if anyone wants to jump on board. Just let me know ASAP.

Good luck and keep us informed of your exploits.

Cheers
-J

...

Originally Posted by AussieHoppy

thx fer the welcome mate!
and thx for the heads up on the spektrum- from what i had read i was under the understanding that the wifi booster was supposed to clear up the lockouts lol lots to learn...
One of the reasons I was looking at boosting my dx7 was because again, reading the forums, i thought the 36mHz had some degree of glitching issues... really difficult to determine what are actual radio glitches or induces interference issues of what has been posted i guess...
Ok, I'm happy enough to keep using my dx7 for park flying, so for 36mhz is futaba the way to go?
5km range is a stock setup?
is p&t relatively plug n play?
what sort of money for a decent 36mhz Tx & decent Rx, say 9 channel?

gawd it's so embarassing starting as a noob!

heheh No Stress mate!! We were all Noobs once!!


You can use a booster I guess. I have never used one, so I can't comment.

The setup I use, and have sold to others who say it works well is a Futaba 10C. This radio is Module based so you can pull the 2.4G module out and stick a 36Mhz Module in. Then you can buy a Spektrum Module, and sell your DX7, as it will control all of your Spektrum DSM2 fleet. NICE!!


Any of the good 36mhz RXs will do. I am currently running a JR RS70, and never had a problem. Although, I have not been out too far with it yet.

I am about to try and grab some more Futaba gear for some orders I have here, so I will get back to you on availability.

Cheers
-J

I agree with The Mongrel, stick to 36Mhz if you want range, it might get glitchy so you have a chance to return rather than get a lockout. If you are going down the 2 stroke with cdi path then even more so. I would ensure that the cdi unit if it is metal cased is either shielded or earthed to the motor to prevent glitching on 2.4Ghz and 36Mhz. Some cdi's are ok while I have seen others give lots of interference. Zenoahs are good and I don't have lockouts and no need to shield anything.

You can use 2.4Ghz RC but be careful with the range. You will not be able to use 2.4Ghz vid tx/rx if you use it for RC control.

No need to wrap wiring better to place components correctly and route wiring directly. I always make my wiring harness and extension leads to suit the plane and layout so as not to have heaps of tangling leads.

You can check out my build thread on a FPV Piper Cub on the HobbyKing Forums under FPV threads to get an idea of component layout using Eagle Tree OSD etc.

I always run the Vid gear from its own 3S lipo and run the RC gear through a Turnigy 8-15A UBEC (excellent noise rejection) from either a stand alone 3S lipo or from the main batt pack.

Buy a packet or two of the ferrite rings from Jaycar. Put one on each of the P&T servo leads.

EE antenna tracker is brilliant, but if you use the Readymade RC assembly use some ball racers on the pan shaft and make some bearing blocks to hold them. Pans super smooth for a few $ outlay. I used the same bearings as my 1/10 racing car has on the wheels and they fit the screw shaft of the assembly pretty close. I'm swinging a 14dbi patch, 2 vid rxs, 2 x 2200 lipos to power the vid rx and EE and it pans so smooth, no binding and I'm using the standard servos!

A few thoughts for you and welcome to FPV.

Cheers

Ian

Originally Posted by ommadawn

I have a collection of lenses from dead cameras that are collecting dust. You are welcome to pick through them if you want.
Send back whats unused.
PM your address if you are interested.
Cheers
Frank

Thanks for the camera lenses which I have received from you. I have tried them and all looking good but I'll have to wait until the weekend, unless I can do it sooner, to get out in the sun and try them.

Thanks again - I'll let you know how I go and get some back to you.

Originally Posted by AussieHoppy

thx fer the welcome mate!
and thx for the heads up on the spektrum- from what i had read i was under the understanding that the wifi booster was supposed to clear up the lockouts lol lots to learn...
One of the reasons I was looking at boosting my dx7 was because again, reading the forums, i thought the 36mHz had some degree of glitching issues... really difficult to determine what are actual radio glitches or induces interference issues of what has been posted i guess...
Ok, I'm happy enough to keep using my dx7 for park flying, so for 36mhz is futaba the way to go?
5km range is a stock setup?
is p&t relatively plug n play?
what sort of money for a decent 36mhz Tx & decent Rx, say 9 channel?

gawd it's so embarassing starting as a noob!

I am a bit like you just starting up and buying everything but have only got the cameras going and the basic video transmission. My recorder died so I have ordered one of these but do not know how good it will be.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWNX:IT

I have bought but am waiting for some items:

1. Pan/tilt for the receiver.
2. Two 900mhz receivers.
3. One 200mw TX and a 500mw.
4. A couple of cameras including the Killer one and a 540 line Sony.
5. EagleEyes
6. OSD Pro
7. Patch antenna
8. EasyStar
9. Altimeter
10. ELogger V3

Looks like I just need a GPS and goggles. I am still using the 36mhz but I got with a plane from ebay a 2.4ghz Futaba Faast transmitter. It is only a T6EX but have not tried it yet. I'll keep it for the EasyStar.

So I am retiring in about two months and it looks like I will have some fun getting it all working.

I have been lucky and have been watching some blokes every couple of weeks for the last nine months with their FPV gear.

All good fun.

Any joy with the lenses Col?