How bad is castor oil in the fuel? (spelling approximate)

Where I live, there is very limited access to "real" heli fuel. I can
get Byron's with a synthetic-castor oil blend, but a pure synthetic
oil fuel would have to be special ordered, with a big jump in price.

My understanding is that castor gums up the engine with time, but that
the fuel runs O.K. Is there a way to clean the engine periodically to
compensate? Should I just plan on getting a new engine every 20
gallons? Or do I need to quit being so cheap and buy the good stuff?

Thanks!

a small amount of castor in my opinion say 2% is good as you get a little
more protection on a lean run . also i have not sufferd from gumming up yet
but have yet to put 20 gallons through one engine .

trevor

"OldSchool" <OldSchool@here.com> wrote in message
news:91n5bvc9s057nnna0g91n4a1755upbv0ve@4ax.com...
>
> Where I live, there is very limited access to "real" heli fuel. I can
> get Byron's with a synthetic-castor oil blend, but a pure synthetic
> oil fuel would have to be special ordered, with a big jump in price.
>
> My understanding is that castor gums up the engine with time, but that
> the fuel runs O.K. Is there a way to clean the engine periodically to
> compensate? Should I just plan on getting a new engine every 20
> gallons? Or do I need to quit being so cheap and buy the good stuff?
>
> Thanks!

"OldSchool" <OldSchool@here.com> wrote in message
news:91n5bvc9s057nnna0g91n4a1755upbv0ve@4ax.com...
>
> Where I live, there is very limited access to "real" heli fuel. I can
> get Byron's with a synthetic-castor oil blend, but a pure synthetic
> oil fuel would have to be special ordered, with a big jump in price.
>
> My understanding is that castor gums up the engine with time, but that
> the fuel runs O.K. Is there a way to clean the engine periodically to
> compensate? Should I just plan on getting a new engine every 20
> gallons? Or do I need to quit being so cheap and buy the good stuff?

If you can accept the engine gumming and occasional cleaning session, plus
cleaning the crap off the heli, then use the fuel you can get easiest.

And it's not a massive job cleaning a "castored" engine either, although it
does require the thing is removed from the heli (usually) and stripped down.
It's the piston and liner that suffers from the carbon deposits andy can be
removed by boiling both items in a saucepan filled with water and BIOLOGICAL
washing powder (not he crap used in dishwashers, but for clothes washing)
which is kept "topped up" with the powder as the water gets browner and
browner.

Another method is boiling in anti-freeze, but that stuff REALLY stinks so I
don't use it myself, although it's rumoured to work very well.

Once all the deposits have gone, a rinse under running water then oil the
buggers up and re-build the motor.

One night of arsing about isn't much, in the greater scheme of things.


--
Beav


Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
(with the obvious changes)

Beavisland now lives at
www.beavisoriginal.co.uk

On Fri, 02 May 2003 20:20:13 GMT, OldSchool <OldSchool@here.com>
wrote:

>
>Where I live, there is very limited access to "real" heli fuel. I can
>get Byron's with a synthetic-castor oil blend, but a pure synthetic
>oil fuel would have to be special ordered, with a big jump in price.
>
>My understanding is that castor gums up the engine with time, but that
>the fuel runs O.K. Is there a way to clean the engine periodically to
>compensate? Should I just plan on getting a new engine every 20
>gallons? Or do I need to quit being so cheap and buy the good stuff?
>
>Thanks!

A point in case:
I dropped the 2% Castor I was adding to 16% synth and noted it revs
out better (61WC), I carry a lot of extra load and got to a point
recently with an EOS camera and big lens I couldnt get the heli off
the ground and maintain head speed.
it slowly bled off till it lost alltitide.
Dropping the 2% castor was enough to make it rev clean up top and hold
revs.
This is an 18lb Ergo60 sport.
They are 10Lb standard.
The fact it doesnt labour as much is a good thing for longevity of the
engine
Another fact is the Castor was forcing me to lean it off to get it to
hold full revs it wouldnt do in the end at 245F eng temp, no Castor it
holds peak revs no problem and carries the weight easily at 215Feng
temp
I use Klotz all synth.
20% Nitro.

Spend the money on good stuff, and you will spend alot less on wash powder
and new pans for the missus

Gromit

OldSchool wrote:

> Or do I need to quit being so cheap and buy the good stuff?
>

Some would argue that the castor/synthetic blend IS the good stuff. A
little castor in the fuel does add a measure of engine protection.
Since this is a BLEND of oils, there is really very little castor in a
gallon of fuel. I don't know about the ratio in Byrons but the oil in
the fuel I use is 80 percent synthetic 20 percent castor- the total ol
content is 18 percent so the amount of actual castor in a gallon is
onlly 2.3 ounces (if I did the math correctly).

Ed

>

> Where I live, there is very limited access to "real" heli fuel. I can
> get Byron's with a synthetic-castor oil blend, but a pure synthetic
> oil fuel would have to be special ordered, with a big jump in price.
>
> My understanding is that castor gums up the engine with time, but that
> the fuel runs O.K. Is there a way to clean the engine periodically to
> compensate? Should I just plan on getting a new engine every 20
> gallons? Or do I need to quit being so cheap and buy the good stuff?

Why not just dump that weenie glow motor and get a gasser.

Then 'real' heli fuel is as close as your local gas station . . . and 10
times cheaper!

Remember that 20 Gallons is a hell of a lot of fuel which should be around
12 months or more of intensive flying.
Castor has always worked and was "the only oil" suitable for model glow
engines for 30 or more years.
The main problem is glazing of the engine but what hasn't been mentioned is
that after a while the muffler also cokes up which will give the same
symptom as no power and overheating.
But kept in respective....you should get a year of flying before having to
worry about de-glazing.
If it is a simple 30 size engine I would stick with Castor as it seems to be
readily available to you and after that time the piston/liner would be close
to be worn out.
If it is a good 60 size heli engine then I would start to use pure synthetic
as Castor is really the lubricant from yesteryear and is mainly used now by
the old cheap plank fliers that are stuck with tradition and simple plain
bearing engines.
If you use a YS engine then using Castor is asking for trouble as it
regularly clogs up the fuel pump system and the one-way valve.
Al


"OldSchool" <OldSchool@here.com> wrote in message
news:91n5bvc9s057nnna0g91n4a1755upbv0ve@4ax.com...
>
> Where I live, there is very limited access to "real" heli fuel. I can
> get Byron's with a synthetic-castor oil blend, but a pure synthetic
> oil fuel would have to be special ordered, with a big jump in price.
>
> My understanding is that castor gums up the engine with time, but that
> the fuel runs O.K. Is there a way to clean the engine periodically to
> compensate? Should I just plan on getting a new engine every 20
> gallons? Or do I need to quit being so cheap and buy the good stuff?
>
> Thanks!

[M M hongkong]

Help!

Anybody can help on about mixing fuel?
I can't find Klotz (K100 / K200) oil.

Castrol/ Valvdline and Shell are easy to find in my city except Klotz. Which model number can replace Klotz?

Many Many Thanks!!!!!

On Tue, 9 Sep 2003 01:37:05 -0500, M M hongkong
<M.M.hongkong.thbal@rcgroups.com> wrote:

>
>Help!
>
>Anybody can help on about mixing fuel?
>I can't find Klotz (K100 / K200) oil.
>
>Castrol/ Valvdline and Shell are easy to find in my city except Klotz.
>Which model number can replace Klotz?
>
>Many Many Thanks!!!!!

It sounds like you are looking at general places to buy Oil you wont
find the Klotz.
You will need to get Klotz from an rc heli shop, Cyberheli is in
Honkers
I would not use Castor.

"M M hongkong" <M.M.hongkong.thbal@rcgroups.com> wrote in message
news:M.M.hongkong.thbal@rcgroups.com...
>
> Help!
>
> Anybody can help on about mixing fuel?
> I can't find Klotz (K100 / K200) oil.
>
> Castrol/ Valvdline and Shell are easy to find in my city except Klotz.
> Which model number can replace Klotz?

Where are you looking for your oil MM? It sounds like you've been to your
local bike or go-kart emporium, where I doubt you'll find much that's any
use to you if you're using a glow motor.

Klotz is formulated for model engines running methanol, so your best bet
would be to either buy a ready mixed proprietry model fuel or by the fuel
components (ALL of them) from a respectable model shop.

Hong Kong has MANY such places from all accounts.


--
Beav


Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
(with the obvious changes)

Beavisland now lives at
www.beavisoriginal.co.uk

Will Klotz ship? I've ordered 30 gallon drums in the past....


http://www.klotzlube.com/Merchant2/m...de=RC_PRODUCTS

Bill Vail





"Beav" <beavis.original@ntloxoworld.com> wrote in message
news:Mfi7b.842144$Bf5.120781@news.easynews.com...
>
> "M M hongkong" <M.M.hongkong.thbal@rcgroups.com> wrote in message
> news:M.M.hongkong.thbal@rcgroups.com...
> >
> > Help!
> >
> > Anybody can help on about mixing fuel?
> > I can't find Klotz (K100 / K200) oil.
> >
> > Castrol/ Valvdline and Shell are easy to find in my city except Klotz.
> > Which model number can replace Klotz?
>
> Where are you looking for your oil MM? It sounds like you've been to your
> local bike or go-kart emporium, where I doubt you'll find much that's any
> use to you if you're using a glow motor.
>
> Klotz is formulated for model engines running methanol, so your best bet
> would be to either buy a ready mixed proprietry model fuel or by the fuel
> components (ALL of them) from a respectable model shop.
>
> Hong Kong has MANY such places from all accounts.
>
>
> --
> Beav
>
>
> Please note my E-mail address is "beavis dot original at ntlworld dot com"
> (with the obvious changes)
>
> Beavisland now lives at
> www.beavisoriginal.co.uk
>
>