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Old Oct 27, 2012, 05:44 AM
ParkScaleModels
zbrubaker's Avatar
United States, PA, Loganville
Joined Feb 2002
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Here's my latest design - the Fokker Eindecker. Construction is 1/32" (.75mm) sheet balsa covered with tissue. The graphics were printed on the tissue using a color laser printer and then glued to the airframe using a Elmers purple glue stick. Printed tissue is now my preferred method for finishing micro models. It's exceptionally light weight, the graphics are nice and sharp and the tissue adds a tremendous amount of strength to the balsa.

AUW is about 2oz (56g). The airframe itself is much lighter, but due to the very short nose and very long tail, I had to add in 1/2oz (14g) of lead in the nose (which I was expecting). Specs are as follows:
Length: 14.15" (36cm)
Span: 18.75" (47.6cm)
Wing Area: 61.2 sq.in (395 sq. cm)
Weight: 2oz. (56g)
Wing Loading: 4.5oz/sq.ft (.15g/sq.cm)

Controls are rudder, elevator and throttle using the AR6400 brick with the Parkzone P-51motor/gearbox and the Parkzone Cessna prop. If the winds are light, it will get it's maiden this morning in about an hour.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 06:33 AM
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Petefoss's Avatar
Oxford, Michigan, United States
Joined Aug 1999
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Looks great Zeke. Could you fit a larger battery instead of lead?

I'm hoping to remaiden this Sopwith Camel this morning too for the third time. It flew great as pictured but I was worried about folding the wings so I added some 0.3 mm carbon cross bracing. I got it too tight and had no dihedral in the top wing. Adverse yaw is not a good thing in a three channel airplane! So I redid the carbon with about 1/2" of dihedral. We'll see if that's better.

13.5" span, 18.5 grams, champ brick, vapor gearbox and prop with J3 motor.

Pete
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 07:13 AM
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dbacon's Avatar
Shelby Twp, MI
Joined May 2006
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Pete,

Adverse yaw on a RET airplane? Yikes, that must have been exciting, how do you turn it back to you so you can fix it?
However you did it, I am glad, that is a pretty plane, as is Zekes, I feel bad about adding weight, I will do anything to keep from adding weight! Even cheat a little on the wing placement...
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 08:11 AM
ParkScaleModels
zbrubaker's Avatar
United States, PA, Loganville
Joined Feb 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Petefoss View Post
Looks great Zeke. Could you fit a larger battery instead of lead?
Thanks Pete! given the size/weight of the 1S batteries, you'd need to add a lot of batteries! Unfortunately there really isn't room for anything larger.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbacon View Post
...I feel bad about adding weight, I will do anything to keep from adding weight! Even cheat a little on the wing placement...
Yeah, I really dislike adding weight too, but sometimes you don't have much of a choice. Moving the wing back on an Eindecker a sufficient amount to eliminate the need for adding nose weight would completely ruin it's look and character IMO.

The problem with these early aircraft is they had light airframes and heavy engines which necessitated the really short noses and long tails.

-Zeke
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 10:12 AM
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Centreville,VA,USA
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Hey Zeke,

Great job on your E.III you'll love the way she flys. I did a micro tissue coverd one 14.5" WS that Speedy01 enlarged and tisuue covered 2mm & 1mm Depron for me. I love mine the hard part to convert this bird from a paper model plan was doing justice to the LG wires. You did a great job on yours.

Here's some pic's of mine.

Pete
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 12:46 PM
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Oxford, Michigan, United States
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Originally Posted by zbrubaker View Post
Thanks Pete! given the size/weight of the 1S batteries, you'd need to add a lot of batteries! Unfortunately there really isn't room for anything larger.
Other than going 2S you are probably right. Be interesting to build one with the Beast gear.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 12:46 PM
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Oxford, Michigan, United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbacon View Post
Adverse yaw on a RET airplane? Yikes, that must have been exciting, how do you turn it back to you so you can fix it?
Just throttled back and let it land.

It flew much better with 1/2" of dihedral. I might want a little more but I need to fly indoors or no wind to be sure,.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 02:36 PM
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UK, Bedworth
Joined Apr 2004
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Nutball

Here's my micro nutball 10" dia made from a pizza plate AUW a it high at 26.4g using the motor and GB from a Sukhoi 26. The model was originally flown with a Microinvent Rx and a couple of actuators on a 7mm pager but was under powered. So I'm hoping the new motor out of the sukhoi will give it enough power to compensate for the extra weight.

Regards

Terry
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 03:22 PM
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United States, PA, Loganville
Joined Feb 2002
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I had a successful maiden of the Eindecker this morning. First 'flight' was a low-to-the-ground test 'glide' with about 20% throttle. It looked good, so I stood up, gave it full power and a gentle toss forward.

It started to dive to to the ground, so I pulled back on the elevator to level it out. Right away I saw the horizontal stab fluttering. It wasn't severe, but it was kind of funny to watch the tail of the plane oscillating up and down. It turns out I had made the hole in the control horn with one size wire, but ended up using a smaller diameter wire to hook up to the carbon control rod, so there was a bit of slop which was allowing the stab to flutter. A quick fix was to apply a little WD-40 to the control wire and then put a little thick CA into the hole in the control horn. The WD-40 prevented the CA from sticking to the control wire while the CA filled the hole.

With the linkage fixed, it was time for another flight. No oscillation this time, but I could tell it was still tail heavy, even after adding the 1/2oz of lead to the nose. It flew well, needing only the slightest amount of left trim, but it was porpoising a bit because it was tail heavy. Also, the little cessna prop just didn't provide enough thrust to overcome all of the drag from the flying wires and landing gear, and it was basically only able to maintain altitude.

I landed and ran inside to get the P-51 prop to replace the Cessna prop. I also added another 1/4 oz to the nose at this time. I checked everything over, throttled up for flight #3. The P-51 prop really gave it the additional thrust it needed...with an added scale 'bonus'. The torque from swinging the bigger prop acted just like the rotating radial engines they used in the full size aircraft...if you turn left, the plane climbs, if you turn right, the plane dives. It was noticeable, but not too severe. With the added power from the P-51 prop, it had no problem climbing. It handled very well with good response from both of the stabs. I had worried the scale size vertical stab might not be big enough, but that was not a problem. It was still handling like it was a little tail heavy, so when the battery ran out, I added another 1/4oz to the nose.

I put in another battery and gave it a toss for flight #4. Even with adding a full ounce of lead to the nose, it flew great and more than slow enough to fly in a regular full court basketball gym. Flight #4 was great! It flew nice an level finally. By this time the wind was starting to pick up some and it was getting bounced around a little, so I flew for another minute or so before bringing it in.

All in all, I'm pretty pleased with how it flew. After a little analysis on the computer, I think I can shorten the tail by 1" (2.5cm) to significantly reduce the nose weight needed to balance, with minimal impact to how it looks. I'll be putting the Eindecker into the hands of a few experienced pilots at the JR Indoor next week to get their feedback.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 03:43 PM
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Shelby Twp, MI
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ZBrubaker,

That was really neat, how you reduced the hole size for the control rod, genius!

As far as putting it on a diet, I have had great luck with pull-pull cables, and for the micros, common sewing thread works fine. You don't need the steel braided leader line I use when there is a Super Tigre 90 aboard! This will save weight, primarily in the tail, where you need it. (That was not meant to be an offensive remark...)
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 06:50 PM
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United States, PA, Loganville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbacon View Post
ZBrubaker,

That was really neat, how you reduced the hole size for the control rod, genius!

As far as putting it on a diet, I have had great luck with pull-pull cables, and for the micros, common sewing thread works fine. You don't need the steel braided leader line I use when there is a Super Tigre 90 aboard! This will save weight, primarily in the tail, where you need it. (That was not meant to be an offensive remark...)
There's little weight to be saved by going with a pull/pull setup. The control rods are 1/32" diameter carbon fiber rods. I use a small piece of .015" wire to connect the carbon control rods to the control horns. The wire is secured to the carbon rod with a small piece of shrink tubing.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 08:43 PM
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I push a toothpick through the control surface where the horn would be, and install a triangle foam gusset top and bottom. Then my thread is wrapped around the toothpick, glued and trimmed. All you have to save is 1/10 of an ounce to be able to remove the 1 ounce in the front
(This is just a w.a.g., but it looks like a 10:1 ratio of moments from here...)

On the front, just tie the string through the holes in the servo's horn. You don't need no stinkin' adjustment...
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 02:25 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
Joined Jan 2008
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I wonder if this chuck glider http://www.rcplanet.com/Hitec_Hawkey...p/hrc59670.htm
is small and light enough to convert to RC using the brick. I saw them in my LHS and it got me thinking. Anyone tried it or know a thread of a conversion?
Specs:
Wingspan: 22.6" (575mm)
Fuselage Length: 20.5" (521mm)
Weight: 63g (2.25 oz)
Hmm, would definitely be a little porky with a UM Corsair motor, but with the extra wing area I think it could work.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 03:48 PM
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UK, Bedworth
Joined Apr 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zbrubaker View Post
There's little weight to be saved by going with a pull/pull setup. The control rods are 1/32" diameter carbon fiber rods. I use a small piece of .015" wire to connect the carbon control rods to the control horns. The wire is secured to the carbon rod with a small piece of shrink tubing.
I,ve used pull /pull setups on many model now and not only do they save weight but they also have no slop and no pushrods to bend under load. Its my preferred solution from indoor to large gliders.

Just make sure you get the geometry correct
Terry
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 05:38 PM
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Shelby Twp, MI
Joined May 2006
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You don't need no stinkin' geometry, if it goes slack when you are off center, no big deal, it is under load then anyway. Now if you use boost tabs, that would be a different story...

If it is slack in the center, then goes tight when you move it, then you need geometry, but that never happened to me, and I'm too stuupid to figure out the geometry as to why. What with having jury duty during my 9th grade geometry class...
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