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Old Oct 22, 2012, 10:55 PM
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Here is one that is 0.4 gram
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ro_Motors.html

Here is a buzzer for less than $3, possibly you could modify it.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...y_Buzzer_.html
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by dbacon View Post
The motor output will have one polarity, then the other polarity, and it may be a smaller voltage than the supply. So you need two things:
1. A diode in series with your circuit so current flows only in the proper direction.
2. A way to provide the voltage needed for the flasher.
Some of those high power LEDs want almost 4 volts to work, and your single cell may not have enough voltage to do it.
You might add an NPN transistor (like a 2N3904) to switch on the flasher with collector on the flasher negative wire and emitter on the negative battery connection. Then you could put a diode and a series current limiting resistor to the base, and tie it to one (or the other) motor output wire. Put the positive wire of your flasher circuit to the positive battery connection.
WOW! what a wealth of information Thanks, although most of it is over my head, but I learn more and more every time I log into RCG

I ended up wiring the flashing tail to be constantly on, and the other lights are on the remote switch. Its not the best solution but it works However I wish I saw your post before doing it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UNGN View Post
I have used these simple, lightweight brushed ESC's to turn on LED's. A good thing about a brushed ESC is you can adjust the voltage to light LED "Just Right" and not need a resistor (using the travel extents in the TX).

Here is an ESC I have used:



Brushed ESC's are getting tougher to find, however.
The ESC sounds like the way to go, thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbacon View Post
Here is one that is 0.4 gram
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ro_Motors.html

Here is a buzzer for less than $3, possibly you could modify it.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...y_Buzzer_.html
0.4g you cant go wrong I'll definitely be buying a few of these for future projects.

I actually have one of those buzzers laying around, I used to use it on my LOSI SCT until I figured out how to set the failsafe
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 06:23 AM
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There are two at HK, one buzzes when you lose signal (yours?), the other when you command it on through a channel (I think this one might be easier to use).

I got a Losi SCT, the Strike, and I have beefed it up as the boys would break things on theirs (bought five all told, the boys play rough) I can share a few things, but on another forum to be polite.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by dbacon View Post
There are two at HK, one buzzes when you lose signal (yours?), the other when you command it on through a channel (I think this one might be easier to use).

I got a Losi SCT, the Strike, and I have beefed it up as the boys would break things on theirs (bought five all told, the boys play rough) I can share a few things, but on another forum to be polite.
Yeah mine is a signal loss buzzer, so it is probably no good for this application

Here are some of my 1:24 SCT Builds:

http://www.microtforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20626

http://www.microtforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20640

http://www.microtforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18308

Quote:
Originally Posted by UNGN View Post
I have used these simple, lightweight brushed ESC's to turn on LED's. A good thing about a brushed ESC is you can adjust the voltage to light LED "Just Right" and not need a resistor (using the travel extents in the TX).

Brushed ESC's are getting tougher to find, however.
I just figured out that I can actually dial down the lights with the servo guts remote switch too

Therefore I think the best and most inexpensive option would be to use the guts of one of these. 10bux for a brushed esc that you are only going to butcher is a bit steep.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...c_0_075kg.html


look at me!!! To think a few hours ago I didnt even know what a remote switch was lol. I would like to thank you guys for your support and suggestions. None of this would have been possible without you two
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 09:55 AM
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If weight isn't super critical, you might just have the servo push a brass contact on the servo arm to short two wires glued down some where. This "dry contact" will operate anything, any Amps (within reason) any voltage, no monkey business.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by dbacon View Post
If weight isn't super critical, you might just have the servo push a brass contact on the servo arm to short two wires glued down some where. This "dry contact" will operate anything, any Amps (within reason) any voltage, no monkey business.
I have thought about this before for an FPV setup to switch between a tail mounted and a cockpit cam. I wanted to do this to my CC panorama, but both weight and cash flow is a bit of an issue at the moment
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 10:23 AM
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Well just be sure to test the device you want to operate at a reduced voltage, because I am sure the servo motor output will be less than the source voltage.

I love those servos, 1.7 gram, no open gears, rotary output allows more mechanical options, and easier to deal with for mounting, etc.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dbacon View Post
Well just be sure to test the device you want to operate at a reduced voltage, because I am sure the servo motor output will be less than the source voltage.

I love those servos, 1.7 gram, no open gears, rotary output allows more mechanical options, and easier to deal with for mounting, etc.
It shouldnt be an issue with SMD leds though.

Yeah I love these servos too, they are precise, quick and they have proven to be quite strong for their size. No issues running with SPEKTRUM equipment too; they seem to flawlessly match my dx6i's stick movements
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 01:08 PM
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With a servo board, you could engineer two color LED's and have one with + voltage and one with - voltage
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 01:43 PM
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Now that's cool...
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by UNGN View Post
With a servo board, you could engineer two color LED's and have one with + voltage and one with - voltage
I actually stumbled across this by mistake/coincidence The motor wires snapped off the servo board from over handling it and I lost track of the +/- wires, so I soldered on 2 leds to determine the polarity. When I plugged it in and toggled the switch I was pleasantly surprised, but unfortunately I had no use for this in my current application.

Anyways I have now completed my setup, and Im pretty happy with it. I'll get a vid up soon.

Hopefully I can get a night flight or two in soon too. At least the pesky kite flyers wont be an issue at night
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 01:48 PM
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Now that's cool...
Especially if you had dual coloured SMD LEDS, you could have a scale setup but at the flick of a switch have whatever freaky colours you desire.

Here's an example of a dual coloured SMD in action:

My mCX2 S300 SMD LED Tail Light Conversion 1.avi (0 min 32 sec)
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNGN View Post
I have used these simple, lightweight brushed ESC's to turn on LED's. A good thing about a brushed ESC is you can adjust the voltage to light LED "Just Right" and not need a resistor (using the travel extents in the TX).

Here is an ESC I have used:



Brushed ESC's are getting tougher to find, however.
Got a link to this esc other than the link to the picture of it ?
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 06:20 PM
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United States, CO, Colorado Springs
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For remotely switched lights you could go with Hansen's NERS and PERS products...

http://hansenhobbies.com/products/onboardacc/ers/

They look pretty foolproof and 100% done and ready to use.

Glenn
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 06:58 PM
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Southlake, TX
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Originally Posted by Petefoss View Post
Got a link to this esc other than the link to the picture of it ?
Not any more. I bought them from bidproduct.com. The image is still there, but I can't find the actual esc.
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