any good planes to put UM cub parts in?

Originally Posted by cale10

any good planes to put UM cub parts in?

If you are a builder then check out

http://www.stevensaero.com/

and

http://www.mountainmodels.com/

i dont mind building but i suck at covering. any foamies out there for UM cub parts?

Originally Posted by cale10

i dont mind building but i suck at covering. any foamies out there for UM cub parts?

Covering isn't really a big deal once you actually try it, Stevens Aero models for UM gear requires very little covering anyway. You can find instructions on MicroLite covering on the Coverite's site:
http://www.coverite.com/covering/covq0240.html
http://www.stevensaero.com/UltraMicr...p-1-c-336.html
AeroLite(Solite) is very easy to use and cheap:
http://www.stevensaero.com/AeroLITE-p-1-c-39.html
Here is one good example to show how little covering is needed!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...68&postcount=1

Originally Posted by coriolan

Covering isn't really a big deal once you actually try it, ....

Appreciate the links!

Gene K

http://www.stevensaero.com/StevensAe...t-p-20616.html

how about this??

Originally Posted by cale10

i dont mind building but i suck at covering. any foamies out there for UM cub parts?

I purchased the major foam replacement parts for Flyzone's Albatross and Cub. For about $20 there is a lot of airframe there.

Also, if I hadn't already purchased the airplanes, I would have considered the Nine Eagles micro war bird replacement parts from Hobby King. Cheap flying fun!

Covering is time consuming, but it is the easiest part of a balsa model. Foamies are quicker, but the mylar covered airframes are really nice looking. All you have to do is:
1. Cut the piece to overlap about an inch all the way around.
2. Tack the piece around the perimeter in points, pulling tight, for a wing it would go:
a. Middle of LE
b. Middle of TE
c. Middle of root
d. Middle of tip
e. Halfway between all these points, it should look pretty tight by now.
f. Between those points and so on.
g. Using scissors, or a long thin plastic strip, as a portable cutting board, under the edge and a new snap knife, trim nice even edges
all the way around, allowing for the next piece to overlap just 1/4", evenly, seams are key!
Forget Exacto, not sharp enough, HK sells the knives I use for 9 cents each!
3. Do the other side, make all those overlaps a nice neat 1/4" Doing the top last will look best,
as the seam edge will be facing down.

To cut a precision strip, lay it on a towel with a nice even nap, don't let the embroidered "Hilton" logo get underneath, then cut with light pressure along a straightedge or even a curved drafting guide. Put a big heavy brick on the far end of the straightedge, so you only have to hold the near edge, watch those knuckles, they must be out of harm's way before you start the cut. This method can be use to make 1/8" wide pinstripes, perfectly!

Where an inside right angle is encountered, i.e. vertical fin to horizontal stabilizer, do the horizontal surface first, and plan it to go past the corner joint and up the fin 1/4". Then the fin covering is cut to stop right at the joint, again the seam edge is facing down. By seam edge, I mean the cross section of the Mylar edge, yes I know it is thin, but it will collect dust later on, have it face down to look better longer.

For curves, you may have to slice "darts" out just make sure they overlap by 1/4". If all your seams are 1/4" overlap, it looks like it was supposed to be that way. (It was)
If these are compound curves, i.e. wingtips, weigh the wing down with rugs and bricks, so you can pull each "darted" strip tight as you iron it from the main piece out to the dart's end, and remember to snip it so it has 1/4" overlap where it meets the piece from the other side.
Yes I am OCD over the 1/4" overlap, but I learned this by watching my pal J, who is a master at this, his jobs look better than the finest paint jobs, and they stay tight for years!

Another master was Vince Pettke of Skymasters, he won awards for his skills. He would tape up a paper template for each piece he would cut out of Mylar, and he bought the long rolls to limit the splices needed for long pieces. He got so good the manufacturers would give him the materials, just to get their name associated with him.

You can even cover fiberglass landing gear, but I have had great luck with ACE water-based paint on them, believe it or not. Some things just can't be done, like spinners and your cat, but Mylar makes the best hinges ever, a little ugly, but you could put them on before covering the surfaces, that will hide them pretty good. I tried this once, looked OK, but I don't bother anymore.

Use a heat gun to shrink both sides (of a flying surface) then check and adjust for warpage, you need an incidence meter for this. Try adjusting warpage out of a non-covered wing, not too easy!

Originally Posted by dbacon

Forget Exacto, not sharp enough, HK sells the knives I use for 9 cents each!

Can you provide a link, please?

Gene K

Yup, glad to:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9334
They are 9.9 cents if you don't sign up for an account. Keep the good colors and give the dorkey colors away, you look generous, and increase your cool.

Originally Posted by dbacon

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9334

Thanks - unbelievable price.

Gene K

Yes, even the shipping CAN BE very little, you get choices...
Happy slashing, be safe.

Originally Posted by speedy01

Can you provide a link, please?

Gene K

Personally, I use and would advise the old style double-edged razor blades. They are all I use for any type of micro building. These are, as you would imagine, ridiculously sharp. They also stay sharp for a very, very long time. I don't use more than one razor/two blades per model. I can get about 12 razors/24 blades for less than four dollars from my local pharmacy. No shipping cost and no wait.

Cale10--Oh, and as for covering, give it a shot. It takes some getting used to, but if the rest of us goons can do it, you can too.

Just my two cents,
Kody

well i just built a TH uproar 40 and my covering job was OKAY! i bunrt through with the heat gun MANY MANY times.

Yes and if you could get holders for these blades, they would be great, as they are very sharp. The availability can't be beat!