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Old Feb 20, 2012, 08:56 PM
Dr John
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Lake Placid, Florida
Joined Dec 2001
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Great looking Goose Vyceroy !
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 04:09 AM
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Shelby Twp, MI
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Thanks dbacon. Not sure yet. The F15 will slow down reasonably well but hang on when you open her up Neither bird was built to be a floater or I wouldn't be using Stryker power

John
Doesn't this present a problem? An indoor plane built for speed? Or do you have the area and low wind to fly it outdoors?
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 08:06 AM
Dr John
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Lake Placid, Florida
Joined Dec 2001
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Doesn't this present a problem? An indoor plane built for speed? Or do you have the area and low wind to fly it outdoors?
I don't have anyplace to fly indoors. Dead calm to 3mph would be ideal but I have flown her in 5-8 and she will punch through it. I do 99% of my flying at a club field. AS3X would be nice but I don't have one yet. I love to fly my um's when the glow guys are sitting around complaining it is to windy to fly

John
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 10:18 AM
Senior Moments...I forgot
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New Hyde Park, NY
Joined Mar 2001
1,007 Posts
My non scale Jenny

This is my first attempt to build a balsa ultra micro plane. The plane is made with very light contest 1/32 balsa and some 1/16 balsa. It has plug in wings, removeable cabane section of the fuselage for receiver access,full house RETA controls (AR6400). The wing span is 22 inches on the top wing and all up weight with a 160 MAH battery 37 grams. The covering is ultra thin mylar red and yellow. I have flown the plane in a small gym. It has been a long hard road but with two builds to get it right. It is not to exact scale and mods were made for ease of flying and to get a correct CG.

John F. Clarke
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 11:57 AM
Lookin' up at the centerline
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Lawrenceville, Georgia
Joined Feb 2005
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Nice first try!

Does she fly as pretty as she looks?

Nick
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 01:16 PM
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Shelby Twp, MI
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Originally Posted by pmpjohn View Post
I don't have anyplace to fly indoors. Dead calm to 3mph would be ideal but I have flown her in 5-8 and she will punch through it. I do 99% of my flying at a club field. AS3X would be nice but I don't have one yet. I love to fly my um's when the glow guys are sitting around complaining it is to windy to fly

John
My club field is usually windy as it is right off Anchor Bay in Lake St. Clair. N. of Detroit. Your flyers would not like that, we rarely see 5 MPH, usually 10, but because we are surrounded by 8-15 foot high brush, the air on top of the runway is absolutely dead, so landings are tricky. Maybe I could fly UM's in that dead air, that is worth a try.

I did fly my Capricorn there this last Fall, and it worked real well when it hit the dead air, since it flies at just a few MPH. So I decided to quit worrying about the UMs and start building, and put in an order for Depron Aero at RC Foam. They claim "Aero" is like Depron but 20% lighter. I am thinking I may get the 2mm Depron to work. I gave up searching for Durobatics, as it looks like that dried up when the sole producer passed away a year ago or so.

RC Foam says the Depron Aero is a new name for Gediplac, but I don't think I can run it through the printer like I understand they did with Durobatics.

Does anybody know a replacement for Durobatics? Hopefully at a better price than it was, $7-$10 a sheet, a little larger than a notebook sheet of paper.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 01:53 PM
Dr John
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Lake Placid, Florida
Joined Dec 2001
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I just got back from the field and did the maiden and one more flight on the Mig29 in 5-10 mph winds. If she flies any different than the F15 it would have to be even better

Can't help with durobatics. All my builds use regular 2,3 and 6mm Depron.

John
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 02:08 PM
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Shelby Twp, MI
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pmpjohn,

Finding out you do this beautiful work in Depron is very encouraging!

So you must paint the Depron, right? How do you keep it light? And what about all those panel lines, do you draw them in with a pen? Looks like a lot of detail work, but worth it!
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 02:19 PM
Senior Moments...I forgot
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New Hyde Park, NY
Joined Mar 2001
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My non scale Jenny

It lifts off with out any help in about 1o-15 feet and flies very well. Just power up and do the turn after it is in the air. Easy to do the pattern in the gym.

I could send a earlier vido when I used a P-51 motor.With that motor it struggled to get into the air. I changed to 4 site Motor and now it almost leaps into the air.

I may delete the ailerons to save save weight as the ailerons are barely effective. Rudder is very effective. I do have some dihederal in the lower wing. I have a carbon fiber rod for a spar and I bent in the dihederal. Works well for small diameter carbon fiber rods. All you need is 15 watt soldering iron and a Jig to hold the carbon fiber rod.

John F. Clarke
AMA 9473
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 03:20 PM
Lookin' up at the centerline
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Lawrenceville, Georgia
Joined Feb 2005
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Originally Posted by JohnC View Post
It lifts off with out any help in about 1o-15 feet and flies very well. Just power up and do the turn after it is in the air. Easy to do the pattern in the gym.
Somehow I figured it would be that way, seems like it's almost impossible to build Jenny where she'd not float around like she does.


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I may delete the ailerons to save save weight as the ailerons are barely effective. Rudder is very effective. I do have some dihederal in the lower wing. I have a carbon fiber rod for a spar and I bent in the dihederal. Works well for small diameter carbon fiber rods. All you need is 15 watt soldering iron and a Jig to hold the carbon fiber rod.

John F. Clarke
AMA 9473
Love that AMA #!
Mine was 31006 till I a few years back when things got a little tight and I had to let it go.
I also got into depron for the scratch builts due to the fact that you can knock out one for about $2.
Seems like you have to make the ailerons about 33% chord to make'em work good though...
But I'm starting to get the yen again for *real* modeling...

Nick
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 04:14 PM
Dr John
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Lake Placid, Florida
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pmpjohn,
So you must paint the Depron, right? How do you keep it light? And what about all those panel lines, do you draw them in with a pen? Looks like a lot of detail work, but worth it!
Once the parts are glued together and sanded to shape I fill the open pores in the foam with lightweight spackle from the hardware store. There are several brands but you will know you have the right stuff when you pick up the container and think it is empty. Spread this on with a finger and then go back over it with a wet finger to work it into the foam and smooth it out. When dry sand and repeat as many times as required to get the surface you want. there is no substitute for elbow grease. I use the cheap water based acrilic paint from the craft store that comes in small plastic squeeze bottles and costs $1.00-$1.50 each depending on the store.

The panel lines, rivets and ect. are drawn in the computer with a cad or graphics program and printed on full sheets of clear Avery label. These are sprayed with clear Krylon to waterproof the ink and cut out. Peel and stick on like any other sticker. The painted areas that are not covered with a sticker get a coat of WPU, water based polyurethane, to protect the paint and put on a shine.

John
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 06:13 PM
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Shelby Twp, MI
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Love that AMA #!
Mine was 31006 till I a few years back when things got a little tight and I had to let it go.
Nick
I had to do the same, but when you "Re-Up" you can put your old number down and you will get it. Mine isn't near as great, but still, I got it: 342006
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 06:14 PM
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pmpjohn,

And all that graphic application doesn't turn it into a "lead sled"?.
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 07:19 PM
Dr John
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Lake Placid, Florida
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pmpjohn,

And all that graphic application doesn't turn it into a "lead sled"?.
78.2 grams w/ 240mah hyperion 2s pack. These were not built to be floaters. A few extra grams helps penetrate the wind better.

John
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Old Feb 21, 2012, 08:15 PM
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Shelby Twp, MI
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Yes I guess I was thinking in the 25-40 gram weight like the pure indoor flyers are, but for outdoor, shouldn't be anything wrong with 80 grams, that less than 3 ounces!

My present outdoor foamies are 28 oz or so.
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