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Old Jun 18, 2011, 03:58 PM
making big holes in the sky..
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Is it possible to change the atmega48 chip on a PCB V6 board to a atmega168 and than run the Mike Barton xxcontroller or xx_controller_kr firmware??
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Old Jun 18, 2011, 04:28 PM
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Russian Federation, MO, Podolsk
Joined Dec 2010
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Hello. Could you please explain to how gyro work!
Pitch gyro:
If i tilt quad to right(+ mode) i didnt see or hear motor reaction(in photo blue arrow),
but if i move only pitch gyro in direction(red arrow, twist it cw or ccw) then i see and hear motor reaction.
I think it is not normal, i am right?
If yes whats wrong?
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Old Jun 18, 2011, 09:00 PM
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VA
Joined Nov 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rinatka7 View Post
Hello. Could you please explain to how gyro work!
Pitch gyro:
If i tilt quad to right(+ mode) i didnt see or hear motor reaction(in photo blue arrow),
but if i move only pitch gyro in direction(red arrow, twist it cw or ccw) then i see and hear motor reaction.
I think it is not normal, i am right?
If yes whats wrong?
I am not quite sure what you mean but the piezo gyro senses along the long axis of the gyro can (silver rectangle on bottom of board). Therefore the gyro board only outputs a signal when twisted in the red arrow direction and never in the blue direction.
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Old Jun 18, 2011, 09:56 PM
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Does anybody know if a KK board like this ...
http://www.funnyrobotics.com/2011/06...-kk-board.html
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=17537

...used for quadra/tri/hexacopters can be used for airplane stabilization like the simple gyro setup like this...
http://www.mycoolrc.com/gyro/indexnew.html
This board is available for $30, is lighter and faster. But it's only ATmega 48, not 168. I know it would need a special firmware - but, maybe, someone has done it on an airplane. Or single rotor heli, kind of like Flymentor 3D??
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 02:06 AM
If it flies, I will crash it
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USA, CO, Westminster
Joined Jan 2008
3,023 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jorgen View Post
I have my quad in a + config and it flies ok (still some fine tuning left).
But how to switch it to X mode instead?

In this post Rolf says to keep the arrow on the board point at the northwest arm (as in + mode). And then enable elevon in the transmitter.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=371

But at this page the arrow is pointing forward between the front arms.
And the motor numbering is different.
http://rcexplorer.se/page14/kkguide/kkguide/quadx.html

I'm currently using the normal quad firmware from:
http://www.kkmulticopter.com/downloa...rollerV4_5.zip

How did you configure for X mode?
If you do in fact have Rolf's version 4.5 Quad firmware installed on your board then you have already answered your own question. As Rolf stated in the post you linked, to enable X simply leave the board in the same orientation as in the + configuration and setup Elevon/Delta mixing in your TX. That is all you need to do.

Rob...
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 02:11 AM
If it flies, I will crash it
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USA, CO, Westminster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bajas View Post
Is it possible to change the atmega48 chip on a PCB V6 board to a atmega168 and than run the Mike Barton xxcontroller or xx_controller_kr firmware??
It is certainly possible and has been successfully done but it does require some high level soldering skills and/or special techniques/tools to get it done. Up to you if you want to roll the dice to update a working board.

Rob...
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 02:59 AM
Have a nice day! Kristjan
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Slovenia, Novo mesto, Šentjernej
Joined Jan 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxspode View Post
It is certainly possible and has been successfully done but it does require some high level soldering skills and/or special techniques/tools to get it done. Up to you if you want to roll the dice to update a working board.

Rob...
You need this machine and some skills. I have done it on ebay blackboard in few minutes.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...:X:AAQ:US:1123
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 03:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxspode View Post
If you do in fact have Rolf's version 4.5 Quad firmware installed on your board then you have already answered your own question. As Rolf stated in the post you linked, to enable X simply leave the board in the same orientation as in the + configuration and setup Elevon/Delta mixing in your TX. That is all you need to do.

Rob...
Oh, it was that simple.

Ok, it is flying fine now in X.

Thanks!
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 03:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tychoc View Post
A completely noob question. What's the advantage or differences of using the X configuration on a quad verses the + ?

Thanks,
-tychoc
In + mode, the front arm/motor will be in the way if you plan to mount a camera facing forward.

And in X mode, the camera will be mounted between the arms and you will only see the propellers on the sides of the image.
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 04:29 AM
making big holes in the sky..
Scandinavia
Joined Aug 2009
314 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mxspode View Post
It is certainly possible and has been successfully done but it does require some high level soldering skills and/or special techniques/tools to get it done. Up to you if you want to roll the dice to update a working board.

Rob...
thanx for the answer ...

I ment the old board with the dim28 atmega. I have one that I can just pop out..
Like this one http://www.kkmulticopter.com/index.p...d=91&Itemid=61

Is it possible to just swap the atmega48 with a 168 and then run xx firmware??
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 04:51 AM
SSM
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Australia, VIC, Canterbury
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bajas View Post
thanx for the answer ...

I ment the old board with the dim28 atmega. I have one that I can just pop out..
Like this one http://www.kkmulticopter.com/index.p...d=91&Itemid=61

Is it possible to just swap the atmega48 with a 168 and then run xx firmware??
I believe: Yes - the boards are identical except for the chip.

Simon

PS. You could buy a new Atmel 168 board for under $25.
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 05:16 AM
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United Kingdom, Bristol
Joined Aug 2008
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With regards replacing MCU:

Well you can use smd reflow station or just cut mcu legs (sharp blade and watch you don't cut tracks) then simple matter of de-soldering legs. Drop new mcu on, solder only 2 legs (either side of chip)till its centered. You can slowly move chip where you need it just by heating one leg at a time. Search youtube for many 'howtoguides'.

You can buy special solder which melt at very low temp and stay melted. Giving you time to left chip off but quite alot of money.

Ask yourself 'what are the chances of re using atmega 48?' and would pcb stand reheating to put it back on. Some pcb's can take alot of abuse but some just fall apart ......
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 06:41 AM
making big holes in the sky..
Scandinavia
Joined Aug 2009
314 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SSM View Post
I believe: Yes - the boards are identical except for the chip.

Simon

PS. You could buy a new Atmel 168 board for under $25.
thanx I will try...

And I have alleready ordered two "plus-boards"... soo looking forward to try them out..
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 10:02 AM
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Joined Jun 2008
75 Posts
Tricopter wiring

Hi,

I have just started building my first tricopter.

I planned on using 50cm 10x10mm square pine rods. Since I did not find the correct sized square rods I ended up buying a 21x12mm rod instead. My wood sawing equipment/skills are not the best and I am not particular happy with the uneven end result. To cheer up a little I started with the wiring/soldering

I have spent time on creating a clean setup and hope I have succeeded.

One of my goals was to use as few resources as possible, to push my creativity and my soldering skills.

I used signal-only servo cables wherever possible and left the different main parts as untouched as possible.

To do this I split one 40CM servo lead into three separate signal wires (cut to lenght) with 0.8mm male gold connectors replacing the original female extender plugs. The connectors where protected with heat shrink tube.

I used spare bind plugs for the receiver to quadboard wiring (and yes, I have spotted the error with missing positive/negative wires to the receiver ).

I had forgotten to buy beefier AWG cable for my simple power distribution, and ended up reusing the wires from a broken ESC. I soldered the three 20 AWG wires and the UBEC power wire around the old ESC wire but have later thought about skipping the old ESC wire completely and solder the wires directly to the XT60 connector. This should lead to less possible heat build up (although I do believe/hope heat build up will not be an issue).

Parts list:

From HobbyKing:
1x HobbyKing Quadcopter Control Board
3x 2213N 800Kv Brushless Motor
3x HobbyKing 12A BlueSeries Brushless Speed Controller
1x OrangeRx Spektrum DSM2 6Ch 2.4Ghz Receiver
1x 6340 Digital Metal and Plastic gear servo 16g/2.2
1x HobbyKing Micro UBEC 3A / 5v
1x Nylon XT60 connectors male/female (5 pairs)
1x Turnigy nano-tech 2200mah 3S 25~50C Lipo Pack
1x Hobby King Battery Monitor 3S
4x Turnigy Pure-Silicone Wire 20AWG (1mtr) Black1x Turnigy 3mm Heat Shrink Tube - RED (1mtr)
1x Turnigy 3mm Heat Shrink Tube - BLACK (1mtr)
1x Turnigy 6mm Heat Shrink Tube - BLACK (1mtr)
1x 40CM Servo Lead (Futaba) 32AWG Ultra Light
1x 0.8mm Gold Connectors 12 pairs (24pc)
2x Turnigy High Density R/C LED Flexible Strip - Red
2x Turnigy High Density R/C LED Flexible Strip - Blue
1x Part # F002 Main Blade Holder Set
2x Rubber Grommet for servos (10pcs/set)
3x 3mm Prop Saver w/ Adapter & 3 bands
1x SF E-Prop 9x4.7 / 229x119.5mm w/ Adapters
1x Turnigy 6S Mini Lipo Battery monitor
1x HobbyKing Programming card for BlueSeries

From local supplier:
1x 240cm 21x12mm pine wood square rod (split into 10(ish)x12mm)
1x 2mm birch wood ply sheet

From UK Ebay seller:
1x 50 M3 X 25 NYLON PLASTIC CHEESE HD SCREW, NUT & WASHERS
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Old Jun 19, 2011, 12:34 PM
If it flies, I will crash it
mxspode's Avatar
USA, CO, Westminster
Joined Jan 2008
3,023 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bajas View Post
thanx for the answer ...

I ment the old board with the dim28 atmega. I have one that I can just pop out..
Like this one http://www.kkmulticopter.com/index.p...d=91&Itemid=61

Is it possible to just swap the atmega48 with a 168 and then run xx firmware??
Opps! My bad, what can I say. It was late. Your right, no problem removing and replacing the chip with another one flashed with different firmware including the 328 (I only buy these anymore). You will need a way to flash the chip or get one that is pre-flashed but it should work fine.

This is the reason that all of the boards that I have made use the Dip28 package. I like to be able to test different setups buy just popping out the chip. I have 4 chips with different firmwares for my tri-copter.

Rob...
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