Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Jun 16, 2011, 04:10 PM
Master of Flash
LazyZero's Avatar
Alsdorf/Eifel, Germany
Joined Jun 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyingfool View Post
Hey Christian,

I sent you a PM with what your program is telling me and the contents of the log file from when I try to flash my KK blue board as you asked me to.

Just wondering if when I plug my programmer in are both lights supposed to light up as I don't remember if they did the first time I flashed my board.
They are both lighting up when plugged into the usb.

Thanks,
Randy
But does the programmer also serve the 5V for the kkboard? If not that would result in the line
Code:
 avrdude.exe: initialization failde, rc= -1
else you have to attache 5V.

Hope this helps

Christian
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Old Jun 16, 2011, 06:40 PM
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Belle Chasse Southern, Louisiana, United States
Joined Apr 2002
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It worked with nothing else connected to the board the first time I programmed it so I would venture to say it at least did supply the 5V.

Now I wonder if something failed on the programmer not allowing 5V to the board.

I guess I will try to program it with the power on to the board and see if that works, but I think I already did that but I may be mistaken.

Randy
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Old Jun 16, 2011, 08:01 PM
Fly Like A Thing Posessed!
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USA, FL, Fort Myers
Joined Nov 2010
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Hey all,

I waited around on saying this because I didn't want to be prematurely positive about it, and then have a problem and have to take it all back. Anyway, I purchased a KK Blackboard 5.5 from "devpacific" on eBay on May 27th. It arrived just over a week later and I scratch built a tricopter based on it and flew it for the first time not but a couple of days after that. At first I thought I'd killed the controller because it suddenly stopped responding, but it turned out that I had accidentally changed a few settings by way of the gyro sensitivity pots. I figured out my mistakes in the same night, and have been learning to fly my tricopter ever since. I've had my share of crashes with it, but all have been due to mechanical issues, poor radio control signal, or just plain old bad flying (still learning). Other than that, she is remarkably stable and gentle, damned easy to fly, but still powerful enough to zip along at 20mph ground speed at least into a 15mph head wind. I am VERY impressed.

I started out with three 18" long 7/16" diameter round dowel rods as motor arms, but now have them cut down to 12" long and she's still incredibly stable... maybe even more so now. I'm getting to where I can fly her around facing away from me as I walk, no problem, and occasionally I can turn her around to face me and not freak out and get confused on the controls. Also am learning to bank while keeping the front end facing into the direction of travel, stop and hover, fly backward, etc.... it's just that I am not used to the stick assignments I ended up with so I'm like a rookie pilot all over again. It's ok... in a week or two I'll be just fine if I stay at it.

Anyway, just wanted to say that although I don't necessarily *suggest* getting a lower priced KK board from an eBay seller, I wanted to put myself out there as an example of someone who did and survived the experience... in fact, so far, I am delighted by the experience. :-)


Attached is a pic of the birdie. And yes, those are spring doorstops for legs, lol. They need a little silicone filling to be properly stiff, but they do very well for impact absorbency on rough landings. I've broken four motor arms so far on pretty bad crashes, but tonight went beautifully and NO DAMAGE. Gettin' better all the time. And yes, that is a camera on the front, she's an FPV flier as well. ;-)

3x RC Timer 2830/13 motors

3x 10x4.7 APC Slow Fly props

3x Turnigy Plush 25 amp speed controllers

1x Corona RP8D1 72MHz receiver (I have an FRSky 2.4GHz TX/RX set on order)

1x BMS-385DMAX digital servo for yaw rotation

1x KPC-DNR700 camera for FPV

1x KK Blackboard 5.5 with tricopter 1.5 firmware

Arms are 7/16" dowel rod, 12 inches long. Motors are clamped to the arms with 1/2" pipe clamps from Lowe's, with pieces of latex tubing to act as bushing material between wood and clamp. Works great and fully adjustable! Tail yaw rotor mechanism consists of the tail motor clamped to a short piece of 1/2" PVC pipe with another clamp out front for the servo linkage to connect to. The servo itself is simply clamped down to the tail dowel rod with a homemade bracket. A few winds of packing tape take up the gap between the dowel and pipe, making it snug enough without being able to bind up. The "fuselage" is two pieces of hand cut lexan polycarbonate plastic, separated by 8 supports made from 1"x1/4" nylon spacers with #6-32 screws run through them. The tip of one of these screws is badly bent from one crash, but man that Lexan is tough. That's why I chose it for the build. The arms break fairly easily, but they are also very cheap to replace and the idea is not to crash in the first place. I've had several hard hits that didn't break anything, so she's tough enough. The motor mounts are also cut from the same Lexan plastic.

Oh, and power currently is provided by a single Turnigy 2200mAH 3S lipo pack, but I am looking into either getting a bigger battery or running two in parallel to see if I can get better flight times.

AUW is almost exactly 1300 grams with the FPV payload and 2200mAH battery. A revision of my design might use thinner Lexan to cut some weight... this I used is 3/16" thick which is pretty much overkill.


Rick NR417
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Old Jun 16, 2011, 11:16 PM
Have a nice day! Kristjan
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Slovenia, Novo mesto, Šentjernej
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Almost
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Old Jun 17, 2011, 12:14 PM
3D-wanna-B
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Lynchburg, VA
Joined Dec 2008
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Kristjane - what are you building that out of? Fiberglass?
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Old Jun 17, 2011, 01:00 PM
Have a nice day! Kristjan
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Slovenia, Novo mesto, Šentjernej
Joined Jan 2006
780 Posts
Yes.
CFK is too much$$$ for me...
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Last edited by kristjane; Jun 17, 2011 at 03:51 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2011, 08:44 PM
3D-wanna-B
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Lynchburg, VA
Joined Dec 2008
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How are you cutting it and where do you get it? I'm looking at building a tri (much simpler than your very impressive design) but can't figure out where to get the stuff. I see you're in Central Europe --- but if anyone State side has a source, I could really use some help just getting my hands on materials and a method for cutting.
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Old Jun 17, 2011, 11:23 PM
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Australia, SA, Hindmarsh Island
Joined Apr 2010
7 Posts
Wondering if anyone can help me out. I have a HC KK board and frame, using Turnigy Plush 25A Esc's. All is good except, if I try to arm it, it won't arm if the rudder/yaw lead from the Rx is connected to the KK board. Without it, it arms fine. I'm puzzled as to what this could be, the cable from the Rx to the kk board is fine and correctly fitted (signal pin towards the middle of the board). Any help and suggestions would be much appreciated !
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Old Jun 18, 2011, 05:05 AM
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Joined Jun 2010
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I have my quad in a + config and it flies ok (still some fine tuning left).
But how to switch it to X mode instead?

In this post Rolf says to keep the arrow on the board point at the northwest arm (as in + mode). And then enable elevon in the transmitter.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=371

But at this page the arrow is pointing forward between the front arms.
And the motor numbering is different.
http://rcexplorer.se/page14/kkguide/kkguide/quadx.html

I'm currently using the normal quad firmware from:
http://www.kkmulticopter.com/downloa...rollerV4_5.zip

How did you configure for X mode?
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Old Jun 18, 2011, 07:19 AM
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Norway
Joined Dec 2009
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What will happend if I turn the gyro gain adjustment. Will my quad be more stable???
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Old Jun 18, 2011, 07:41 AM
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United Kingdom
Joined Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foskje View Post
What will happend if I turn the gyro gain adjustment. Will my quad be more stable???
that depends which way you turn it ....

if your quad has a tendency to oscillate, then turn the gyro gain(s) down.
if your quad wanders alot, then you can increase the gain(s), but you need to keep it from un-controllable oscillation.

I ususally get the quad level close to soft ground, and then quickly wiggle the TxRoll quickly one way and then the other to see if you can get it to oscillate. If it does oscillate out of control, I turn the gain(s) down.
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Old Jun 18, 2011, 08:55 AM
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United Kingdom, Wales, Gwaun-Cae-Gurwen
Joined Mar 2011
535 Posts
check

hi guys, need to check my kk blackboard is working ok. i have the board, and an old 35mhz tran and rec. when i connect power, it flashes once (im alive) on board, but wont arm, so dont know if board is ok. help? im only plugging in 1 esc, to test, do all 4 need to be plugged in? all leads to board from receiver are fitted correctly. thanks.
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Old Jun 18, 2011, 10:40 AM
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tychoc's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Feb 2006
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A completely noob question. What's the advantage or differences of using the X configuration on a quad verses the + ?

Thanks,
-tychoc
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Old Jun 18, 2011, 12:02 PM
making big holes in the sky..
Scandinavia
Joined Aug 2009
314 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by nasgul View Post
hi guys, need to check my kk blackboard is working ok. i have the board, and an old 35mhz tran and rec. when i connect power, it flashes once (im alive) on board, but wont arm, so dont know if board is ok. help? im only plugging in 1 esc, to test, do all 4 need to be plugged in? all leads to board from receiver are fitted correctly. thanks.
try nudge the throttle trim down some steps and try... I have to go down two stepps to get it to arm..
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Old Jun 18, 2011, 01:36 PM
Have a nice day! Kristjan
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Slovenia, Novo mesto, Šentjernej
Joined Jan 2006
780 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by k2_02 View Post
How are you cutting it and where do you get it? I'm looking at building a tri (much simpler than your very impressive design) but can't figure out where to get the stuff. I see you're in Central Europe --- but if anyone State side has a source, I could really use some help just getting my hands on materials and a method for cutting.
CNC milling. Material is for PCB-s. I will remove copper, since weights much more than fiberglass.
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