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Old May 01, 2010, 07:24 PM
That tree again!!!!
thanhTran's Avatar
Germantown, MD, US
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben123 View Post
...

Can't wait to etch it! Here's a very blurry (crappy iPhone) picture of my efforts.
Looks great for toner transfer!
When I tried it, I was using an iron, and the track width was not consistent and depended on how hard I push my hands on. Abandon this method after I didn't want to invest in a laminator, and I got consistent result with UV method..
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Old May 01, 2010, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thanhTran View Post
Looks great for toner transfer!
When I tried it, I was using an iron, and the track width was not consistent and depended on how hard I push my hands on. Abandon this method after I didn't want to invest in a laminator, and I got consistent result with UV method..
UV photo sensitive boards is the way I did it years ago. I had a laser printer that tracked pretty good and I could run the laser transparency through twice and lay a second image right on top of the first. This gave a very dark image that no light could shine through and ruin the exposure of the board. Had a nice bubbler etchant tank setup using ammonium persulphate.
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Old May 01, 2010, 10:48 PM
Quad Whisperer
Joined Jul 2008
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Here is the new SMD Board.

It is 50x50mm and have 45mm hole distance.

Now I am going to bed


Edit: The roll and pitch gyros is to be glued with hot glue onto the PCB with the silver box facing down. The Yaw gyro can be mounted like intended, the silver box facing the edge of the PCB and the connections facing up. It also can be mounted with the connections facing down, but then the silver box should face the center of the PCB. Also it needs to be reversed. Make sure the wires it not to short and stiff, or else they may break. That is the reason I placed it with the connections facing up.
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Old May 01, 2010, 10:49 PM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
United States, TX, San Antonio
Joined Feb 2007
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Verrry nice Rolf!
Cheers,
Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
Here is the new SMD Board.
It is 50x50mm and have 45mm hole distance.
Now I am going to bed
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Old May 02, 2010, 02:47 AM
manuLRK
Belgium
Joined Sep 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
Here is the new SMD Board.

It is 50x50mm and have 45mm hole distance.

Now I am going to bed
Hi, and first I want to thank you for sharing all your knowledge.

Never before I made PCB's myself, it always scared me to start with it. Now with all the info and links you all provided, I STARTED!

Yesterday I tested the toner transfer method, and yes, it is easy (still need some exercise)!

Next, being more mechanic than electronic skilled, i still have a problem on the purchase of the correct electronic components (size, type, etc). I am used to buy here : rscomponents

Is it possible for each board that is put on this list, to provide the list of the components (reference) that will fit it, compatible software, and a correct scaled pcb cicuit path as bitmap image or pdf file (centered)?

Thanks Again for all the hard work and especially sharing your skills.
ManuLRK
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Old May 02, 2010, 03:07 PM
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3rd stone from the sun
Joined May 2007
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Kaptein...

Very nice work with that SMD design.....are you going to make a production of those boards? Nice idea to use recycled components from silver "gyrds"...

Ive redesigned my board as well. But I made it 52 by 52 mm.....to get 2mm clearance from mounting holes to edge of board. Mounting holes are 45 mm apart.....

There is now both a singlesided and a 2-sided design with ISP. I will add the files to original post in a bit.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=657

I am still up for a limited production-run of these boards....but I personally think that Kapteins SMD-board makes more sense (lighter, smaller, cheaper components), and I would use that if it were to be produced.

Of course the SMD-soldering could be a problem for some - so perhaps there is still a need for a TH board.....let me know if you still want one.
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Old May 02, 2010, 03:49 PM
manuLRK
Belgium
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 420RcPilot View Post
Of course the SMD-soldering could be a problem for some - so perhaps there is still a need for a TH board.....let me know if you still want one.
420RcPilot,

Again, "chapeau".

I am still interested in that design, since it will be my first PCB, and bigger components will be easier to find...

Is it possible for this board to provide the list of the components (reference) that will fit it, compatible firmware, and a correct scaled pcb circuit path as bitmap image or pdf file (centered, to be able to directly sent it to the printer)?

Thanks
ManuLRK
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Old May 02, 2010, 04:06 PM
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Manu. Ill put my list up tomorrow.....but generally look for components with 2,54 mm pin distance. The design is made around that grid! Trimmers are 6mm with 2.54/5.08 mm footprint

However I found that some of the components are hard to come by in TH-type. Dont count on RS having the 28-pin Atmega48/88/168 in stock in europe - backorder everywhere. Supplies are not due until july. Same story with Farnell. I havent checked Reichelt in Germany, cuz they have a 150 euro order minimum for international custumers. Futurlec.com stock the Atmegas, but havent got 0.68 uF tantalum caps - this is why I designed C5, C6 and C8 to take both 2.54 mm and 5.08 mm pin caps (so U can use larger polyester caps instead).

Kaptein - you changed some Capacitor values in your new SMD-design. I am guessing that those values also works for TH design?

Thanks

Jussi
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Old May 02, 2010, 04:40 PM
manuLRK
Belgium
Joined Sep 2004
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Pcb

Hi,

This is the best I can get with the paper transfer method.

I will prepare my etching shaker tomorrow.

Thanks
ManuLRK
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Old May 02, 2010, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alll View Post
Hi,

This is the best I can get with the paper transfer method.

I will prepare my etching shaker tomorrow.

Thanks
ManuLRK
Looks like u are pressing to hard or heat is too high - my iron gets very hot on high, so I dont crank it all the way up. If U are using the magazine paper, you dont have to press that hard.

You can also try and print with less toner - as too much will have a tendency to smear.... Wipe the toner off with acetone or paint thinner and give it another go.

Remember also to prepare the board properly - sand down the high edges from cutting board and also sand copper surface with very fine grit wetsanding paper (500-1000 grit). Some also pre-etch the raw board (dip it briefly in the etchant) to make the toner stick better to the copper. Clean again with acetone or paint thinner right before transfering...
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Old May 02, 2010, 05:08 PM
manuLRK
Belgium
Joined Sep 2004
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Preparing my components order

For C5,C6,C8: 0.68 uF tantalum, can I use 1F instead
rs-components do not have the 0.68!

Can I use this ATmega48PA-88PA-168PA-328P.pdf?

Here is what I have up to now:
the 100F tantalums are quite expensive!
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Old May 02, 2010, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alll View Post
For C5,C6,C8: 0.68 uF tantalum, can I use 1F instead
rs-components do not have the 0.68!

Can I use this ATmega48PA-88PA-168PA-328P.pdf?

Here is what I have up to now:
the 100F tantalums are quite expensive!
The 100 uF is a aluminuml electrolyte in Kapteins design - much cheaper than tantals. Like this from RS (Number 193-6720):

http://dk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...duct&R=1936720

0.68 uF: try searching for 680 nF instead. Some stores list them that way. RS here in DK has 680 nF 35V tantalums - item number 537-4413.

http://dk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...duct&R=5374413

They also stock polyester film caps in 0.68 uF (680 nF)

I believe that the Kaptein said earlier that only C9 absolutely has to be a Tantalum!

IC looks good - be sure to get a 28-pin - RS listings can be hard to decipher...
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Old May 02, 2010, 05:38 PM
Quad Whisperer
Joined Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alll View Post
Hi, and first I want to thank you for sharing all your knowledge.

Never before I made PCB's myself, it always scared me to start with it. Now with all the info and links you all provided, I STARTED!

Yesterday I tested the toner transfer method, and yes, it is easy (still need some exercise)!

Next, being more mechanic than electronic skilled, i still have a problem on the purchase of the correct electronic components (size, type, etc). I am used to buy here : rscomponents

Is it possible for each board that is put on this list, to provide the list of the components (reference) that will fit it, compatible software, and a correct scaled pcb cicuit path as bitmap image or pdf file (centered)?

Thanks Again for all the hard work and especially sharing your skills.
ManuLRK
Thanks, I will see if I can make a list.
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Old May 02, 2010, 05:56 PM
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Joined Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpia View Post
I have been watching this thread with some interest for a while now.

A service i have heard good things about is this one.

http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/ope...e-c-64_12.html

The wiki for info is here.

http://www.seeedstudio.com/wiki/inde...=Opensourcepcb

Nice place to get a small run for testing and then i think they are able to make a bigger run as well. either they can sell though there site or send to the orderer,

Also they do discounts for open source designs, i think this should qualify.

Keep up the good work , this looks like it is a great project that is getting better.

If you are going to design a board i would suggest adding small via's for any unused i/o left on the micro as then it could be used later for future idea's.

a couple of idea's i had for using some of the extra i/o left on the chip are.

1. possibly include a low voltage cutout onboard. with some sort of output to a buzzer/led etc.

or

2. use the extra inputs to add an acceleromitor etc.

Either way great work keep it up, Hopefully in a month or so i will be making my own. If boards get produced i will be looking to buy some of them
Seedstudio looks like a way to go. Im in

I use these for low voltage warning: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=7223

There will be no more features added to this design. I does as intended, fly a quad/tri. (hexa, Y6 and that avatar thingy to be added) Maybe later with a new design with a more powerfull microcontroller chip.
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Old May 02, 2010, 05:58 PM
Quad Whisperer
Joined Jul 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitc View Post
can i use the atmega88 taken out from hk401B old version (mystery gyrd) in the quadrotor v4
Yep
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