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Old Jul 18, 2010, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by warthox View Post
hi,

i made a new layout for the smd pcb. its much better to solder if u are milling the board. and there are less drills. put the most parts to bottom. only the needed on top (led, poti etc.)

i rotated the hole thing for 45° to get it better on a tricopter. so the front is where the yaw gyro is placed. there are still 6 motor connectors for quad and hexacopter.

what are thinking about?
Nice work! Do you have an updated version or a through hole version? I've made the other boards with my PCB router but they are almost impossible to solder without rivet through hole vias.
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Old Jul 18, 2010, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 420RcPilot View Post
Edit: 18/5-2010. I misplaced comma for value of C1 on Gyro board. Correct value is 4.7 uF. I have edited recap Doc as well. Changes only apply to gyro cap C1 value and size.

Edit: 10/5-2010 - recap on building and programming added. New gyro boards added.

If U downloaded old gyro boards, you can trash them - I had swapped pin 3 and 4 on gyro board. I built and tested new version and it works!


I have removed the old files and put up the new ones - there is nothing wrong ith the old PCB files but I made a few changes and tidyied it up...

Printing and wieving of the .lay-files can be done with sprint layouts free viewer tool. This way you can print to fit your need.

http://www.abacom-online.de/UK/html/...#Layout-Viewer


I have provided gerber and excellon-files as well for those wanting to import design into Eagle with the Eagle power tools.

Design notes:

I tried to make board as versatile as possible. But C4 and C9 have to be tantalum to fit! You can now use 10 mm potis and plastic film caps for C5, C4 and C8. Watch the sizes if you use plastic film caps - they often have very large bodies.

Except for C7 Tantalum is the recommended choice for all caps and especially C9 has to be tantalum according to Kapteins design. C7 is a radial Electrolyte....

All tracks are 0.5 mm and at least 0.5 mm apart. This makes it pretty easy to make with tonertransfer technique....all Holes are set to minimum size 0.6 mm -. you can then drill out to larger size if needed - mounting holes can be up to 3 mm.

IC3 is designed to take a TO220 package, which means that the smaller TO92 package will also fit with some bending of the legs.

R1, R2 and R3 are standing up. LED is designed for 5 mm type. I stacked headers for all six motors in same direction. Potis are uo to 10 mm base with 2.54 *5.08 footprint

I designed so that you can use HK401B or other solution. If HK401b is used then connect signals to Y,P,R and the 3 GND and VVC wires to corresponding pads (vcc 1-3 and gnd in upper right corner of PCB)

I you plan to use the provided gyrostar PCB, then you can omit R1, R2 and R3 (they are on gyro PCB), and connect gyro boards directly to Y,P,R, G and VCC.

V 4.1 part list:

IC1: Atmega48/88/168/328 (28-pin)
IC3: LM317LZ (TO92 or TO220)
DIL/DIP 28 -300 “Narrow style” IC socket for Atmega

R1: 100 Ohm
R2: 100 Ohm
R3: 100 Ohm
R4: 4.7 Ohm
R5: 10 KOhm trim potmeter (up to 10 mm square with 2.54*5.08 pinout footprint)
R6: 10 KOhm trim potmeter
R7: 680 Ohm
R8: 10 KOhm trim potmeter
R9: 220 Ohm
R10: 68 Ohm (was 39 ohm)
R11: 4.7Kohm - 1206 SMD case. (only for twoside version)

C1: 2.2 or 47 uF tantalum
C2: 2.2 or 47 uF tantalum
C3: 2.2 or 47 uF tantalum
C4: 2.2 or 47 uF tantalum
C5: 0.68 uF tantalum
C6: 0.68 uF tantalum
C7: 100 uF or 47 uF electrolyte or Tantalum
C8: 0.68 uF tantalum
C9: 2.2 uF tantalum or 47 uF Tantalum

Components for Gyro PCB is :

IC1: Murata Gyrostar ENC-03R
R1: 100 Ohm - 1206 SMD
R2: 6.8 KOhm – 1206 SMD
C1: 4.7 uF Tantalum – SMD C-case
C2: 47 uF Tantalum – SMD D-case

You can probably use smaller B-case SMD Caps for C1 and C1 - sizes are max size that will fit.

Anyone happen to have these in eagle cad (brd) format? I tried using power tools to import the gerber files but the results were missing pads and connections.
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Old Jul 18, 2010, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob4432 View Post


or i believe if you read through this entire thread, it is mentioned that if you are going to go all the same rotation, then it is either 6 or 9 degrees cant, you can also see the info here too:



from this thread - http://diydrones.com/profiles/blogs/...g_com_blogpost


i will try to make this one
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Old Jul 18, 2010, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Zoomzky View Post
Can you give me a link to a suitable ESC so i dont buy the wrong ESC's again?
Im using HK's DT750 motors.

I have the effect that the motors doesnt start at the same time and i guess its ESC-related. Theres no magic i can do with my TX to sync start of motors?

/Z (HK SS ESC's for sale )
I'll buy them. The're nice and work fine.
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Old Jul 18, 2010, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
It is only rate dampening of angular rotation speed. It is similar to a helicopter tail gyro in rate mode.
Faster the rotation speed, more opposite power is given.
So my simple formulas are correct, right?
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Old Jul 18, 2010, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by frank48 View Post
Hi

Plug the esc into the thottle channel on your rx, switch on tx go to full throttle - switch on rx and wait for 2 beeps from esc (from memory if its not right somebody will chime in... ) return throttle stick to low - esc will do normal beeps and thats it
If my suspicion of what's going on here is right, I also suggext that while you do this, you put the TRIM of you throttle to MAX! Next fly with the throttle trim lower. I have a different codebase, and doing this in software solved my problems. I'm thinking that doing this like this might help without having to change the software.
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 12:04 AM
Jakub J's Avatar
Krakow/POLAND
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nadine View Post
hi jakub!
i send to you email !do you received!?
i want to buy one kit from you!..please send me pm or email!
regards!
Give me one day for answering
Yesterday was a Sunday

Jakub
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 03:28 AM
Why walking when you can fly ?
fmelle's Avatar
France, IdF, Clamart
Joined Mar 2007
109 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zoomzky View Post
Can you give me a link to a suitable ESC so i dont buy the wrong ESC's again?
Im using HK's DT750 motors.

I have the effect that the motors doesnt start at the same time and i guess its ESC-related. Theres no magic i can do with my TX to sync start of motors?

/Z (HK SS ESC's for sale )
My kk quad is flying quite well with 4 SuperSimple 18-20A ESC. I think that it could work with your SS 25-30A ESC. Have you given them a try ?

By the way, I use FC 28-22 motors on the Jakub J quad frame. I posted the video a few posts before.
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Last edited by fmelle; Jul 19, 2010 at 03:35 AM.
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 03:52 AM
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Härnösand, Sweden
Joined Apr 2010
125 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rewolff View Post
If my suspicion of what's going on here is right, I also suggext that while you do this, you put the TRIM of you throttle to MAX! Next fly with the throttle trim lower. I have a different codebase, and doing this in software solved my problems. I'm thinking that doing this like this might help without having to change the software.
So you are using the same ESC's?

Do you mean i should trim throttle to max when programming or when flying.

Since a lot of ppl use the same ESC's as me i have a feeling i have that other issues causing problem. I will try other motors and inspect all the electronics/cables....

/Z
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 05:46 AM
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You should "program" them with trim set to max, and then fly with trim a bit lower. If the ESC doesn't accept your trimmed-up throttle setting as throttle off, then you should try with a lower trim setting.

I'm building my own software. So I did something similar in my software, and it suddenly looked a lot better.

Anyway, you're best off if you trim it before first takeoff....

Slowly increase the throttle, until the first motor starts turning. If it is the front motor, trim on your transmitter a bit "pitch forward". Do this until front and back start up more or less simultaneously.

Next concentrate on the other axis. trim roll untill your left and right motors start up at the same time.

Next is yaw.... If the front and back motors start at a different moment than left and right, trim yaw until they start equal.

Once you've done that you've gotten the controller and the transmitter to agree more or less on the midpoints of the sticks. (I've always thought it was supposed to be 1.500 ms, but apparently some transmitters think it's supposed to be 1.520 ms.... )

This should always be done before first flight, unless maybe you're an experienced helicopter pilot who can handle the stick appropriately on liftoff....

Oh, and yes, I'm using exactly the same ESCs. I thought I read somewhere that they could be software upgraded to use a higher update rate, but they work just fine if you send them a 300Hz servo signal.
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 09:20 AM
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Hi, I wanted to start the project and checking if I can reuse my spare gyro taken out from my other project.

Tried to read all the old post but just too many so I post this question here:

- this is 3.3V Gyro, if I have regulator to step down the 5V to 3.3V, can this Gyro work? I mean any issue that this is 3.3V Gyro, can the gyro signal work with the 5V system fir the KK board?

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/pro...oducts_id=8955

Thanks,
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 10:21 AM
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Cant we integrate the WII sensors for a whole 6DOF in a compact package instead of continously playing with the POTS for stable flight, it will hardly cost $30.
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 01:13 PM
That tree again!!!!
thanhTran's Avatar
Germantown, MD, US
Joined Sep 2004
6,642 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dt8666 View Post
- this is 3.3V Gyro, if I have regulator to step down the 5V to 3.3V, can this Gyro work? I mean any issue that this is 3.3V Gyro, can the gyro signal work with the 5V system fir the KK board?

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/pro...oducts_id=8955

Thanks,
no problem doing so as long as the output of the gyro is max at 1.6v
I use ST gyros on my set up which requires 3.0v as well.

Thanh
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 03:05 PM
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United States, AZ
Joined May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfi View Post
Cant we integrate the WII sensors for a whole 6DOF in a compact package instead of continously playing with the POTS for stable flight, it will hardly cost $30.
in one of the posts, kapteinkuk (the hardware/software designer that has graciously given us this excellent controller to the commnity) has stated that this is the hardware for this particular controller board and he will continue to tweak the software as needed. he has said that he may, in the future, create another project but that is up to him.
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 04:50 PM
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Härnösand, Sweden
Joined Apr 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rewolff View Post
You should "program" them with trim set to max, and then fly with trim a bit lower. If the ESC doesn't accept your trimmed-up throttle setting as throttle off, then you should try with a lower trim setting.

I'm building my own software. So I did something similar in my software, and it suddenly looked a lot better.

Anyway, you're best off if you trim it before first takeoff....

Slowly increase the throttle, until the first motor starts turning. If it is the front motor, trim on your transmitter a bit "pitch forward". Do this until front and back start up more or less simultaneously.

Next concentrate on the other axis. trim roll untill your left and right motors start up at the same time.

Next is yaw.... If the front and back motors start at a different moment than left and right, trim yaw until they start equal.

Once you've done that you've gotten the controller and the transmitter to agree more or less on the midpoints of the sticks. (I've always thought it was supposed to be 1.500 ms, but apparently some transmitters think it's supposed to be 1.520 ms.... )

This should always be done before first flight, unless maybe you're an experienced helicopter pilot who can handle the stick appropriately on liftoff....

Oh, and yes, I'm using exactly the same ESCs. I thought I read somewhere that they could be software upgraded to use a higher update rate, but they work just fine if you send them a 300Hz servo signal.
Hi Rewolff!

You helped me get on the right track! Thank you!
A called friend with RC-Heli experience and he stopped by and helped me too.

After some serious trimming i even got the ESC-programming to work with the KK-board. All motors starts at the same time. Was a relief i wasnt crazy too, there isnt any 2 beeps on my SS Esc's

Once again thanks especially rewolff and others that helped me!

/Z
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