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Old Jun 30, 2010, 09:38 AM
Registered User
Ourense, Spain
Joined Nov 2005
48 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbfoamy View Post
Zotfidjy,

What is the measurement from motor to motor? Your quad looks great! But, it seems bigger than most.
Hi Jbfoamy, the Quad have 76cm motor 2 motor. Today the quad is "only" 50cm. motor 2 motor.
Im happy with the shorter version, is light, reacts fast and strong to sticks. 76 cm. quad is better for learning.
The complete quad without lipo today weights 800gr. Im try to get a 750gr Quad. (when i made it it weights 950gr, not bad)
Telmo
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 09:45 AM
Registered User
Ourense, Spain
Joined Nov 2005
48 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkHeli View Post
I have been using extreme burner so far... Noticed the lack of a lot of options.. What programmer do you pick when using AVR Studio 4? I have the USBASP one and it is not in the options.
Hi, i have several problems with comercial avr programmers, i cant program the atmega.
But I follow the step by step made by 402RcPilot's:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showa...0&d=1274217816 , I made the programer and it works.

I think i waste my money in those programmers, and with less than 5€ the ponyprog makes the job.
(Thanks 402RcPilot's )
Telmo
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Last edited by zotfidjy; Jun 30, 2010 at 10:32 AM. Reason: Change step to step autor
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 09:56 AM
Registered User
Joined May 2010
488 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkHeli View Post
I have been using extreme burner so far... Noticed the lack of a lot of options.. What programmer do you pick when using AVR Studio 4? I have the USBASP one and it is not in the options.
Aah I do not have USBASP. I have been using the AVRISP500 and AVRISP mkII.

http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?n...topic&p=489155

This thread may be of interest however.
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 09:59 AM
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Joined May 2010
488 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by zotfidjy View Post
Hi, i have several problems with comercial avr programmers, i cant program the atmega.
But I follow the step by step made by Niall:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showa...0&d=1274217816 , I made the programer and it works.

I think i waste my money in those programmers, and with less than 5 the ponyprog makes the job.
(Thanks Niall )
Telmo
Aaah I think that is 402RcPilot's instruction manual. He is very good at that kind of thing.
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 10:30 AM
Quad Whisperer
Joined Jul 2008
945 Posts
My assembly of the V5 SMD PCB:



-Solder a bit of solder onto the pads. For the small chip pads, add flux to the pads, add a bit solder to the tip and then run it over the pads. Then add flux to all the pads.





-Add all the components to the pads. Aligment is not critical, but you may do it better than I did





-Move to the kitchen. Here I placed the PCB on a 2mm aluminum plate and put a glass lid over it. Then I turned on the cooking plate to about half power.

After about 10 minutes I turned up the heat and soon the solder melted. 10 minutes may be too long time, but I wanted to avoid grilling the PCB. As soon as all the solder had melted, I moved the aluminum plate off the cooking plate. The IR thermometer was reading 190 degree celcius. Not to hot I think. After cooling carefully inspect the PCB. A few of the legs of the Atmega chip was not soldered. It was fixed with a very small tip and a microscope. Next time I am going to try to add a small weight ontop of the chip to make all the legs come in contact with the solder.



Kitchen SMD reflow soldering (1 min 53 sec)






-Solder on the TH components.

-Attatching the gyros.
Put the gyro onto the PCB and then put hotglue in between the two PCB's









Finished!





Note: If you have used a ATmega88 from the silver gyrd, you have to provide a extenal clock signal until you have programmed the correct clock fuses. I used

a 100kHz signal from a signal generator applied to pin 9. It will light up the led I used an ISP frequency of 6kHz.

The chip on both the gyrds where not locked, so I downloaded the program from it. Later I am going to nerd through the code and see how it works.
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 11:07 AM
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cyhyam's Avatar
Highland, CA, USA
Joined Jan 2001
1,128 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
My assembly of the V5 SMD PCB:
Kapteinkuk,

Thank you, this is perfect, it will be very helpfull, my components should be here any day.
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 11:08 AM
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SupraGo's Avatar
Canada, AB, Vegreville
Joined Jun 2009
171 Posts
Now that is what I call thinking out of the box. Or on top of the stove.

I had seen some of the videos showing re-flow soldering but with solder paste and in a toaster oven and had dismissed them because of the problem of getting the solder paste(Needs to be kept refridgerated). But this puts a whole new light on the situation.

To hold SMD parts in place while soldering. Take a piece of single strand copper household wiring about 150 mm long. Bend the last 10/20 mm on each end up 90 degrees. Take another piece of the same wire and twist one end around the middle of the first wire so that the second wire ends up at an angle about 10 or 20 degrees to the first wire. Like a "Y" with a narrow "V". Make the ends of the first wire point up and put a bend on the end of the second wire so it matches length of the other arms of the "Y". Turn it over so the ends are all pointing down. The single end/bottom of the "Y" will sit on top of the SMD part and hold it in place while the other ends will stop the "device" from falling over while you solder. Adjust sizes/angles and weights to suit. You can solder the join. Or not.

Thank you KK.
Bill
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Last edited by SupraGo; Jun 30, 2010 at 11:48 AM. Reason: Addition
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 03:45 PM
Future-proof EVERYTHING
DarkHeli's Avatar
NY
Joined Jul 2008
762 Posts
Okay, we may be getting somewhere...

I plugged in my bec to RX OUT ports, and I get a green light, but it doesn't turn off. Voltage at the chip reads about 2 Volts. If I plug the bec into the ESC/motor out ports, I get no power to the chip and no light.

Perhaps I have a jumper wire not fully soldered, and not supplying power to the other half of board?
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 04:00 PM
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bob4432's Avatar
United States, AZ
Joined May 2010
1,826 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
My assembly of the V5 SMD PCB:



-Solder a bit of solder onto the pads. For the small chip pads, add flux to the pads, add a bit solder to the tip and then run it over the pads. Then add flux to all the pads.





-Add all the components to the pads. Aligment is not critical, but you may do it better than I did





-Move to the kitchen. Here I placed the PCB on a 2mm aluminum plate and put a glass lid over it. Then I turned on the cooking plate to about half power.

After about 10 minutes I turned up the heat and soon the solder melted. 10 minutes may be too long time, but I wanted to avoid grilling the PCB. As soon as all the solder had melted, I moved the aluminum plate off the cooking plate. The IR thermometer was reading 190 degree celcius. Not to hot I think. After cooling carefully inspect the PCB. A few of the legs of the Atmega chip was not soldered. It was fixed with a very small tip and a microscope. Next time I am going to try to add a small weight ontop of the chip to make all the legs come in contact with the solder.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FD-PQ85bGJQ





-Solder on the TH components.

-Attatching the gyros.
Put the gyro onto the PCB and then put hotglue in between the two PCB's









Finished!





Note: If you have used a ATmega88 from the silver gyrd, you have to provide a extenal clock signal until you have programmed the correct clock fuses. I used

a 100kHz signal from a signal generator applied to pin 9. It will light up the led I used an ISP frequency of 6kHz.

The chip on both the gyrds where not locked, so I downloaded the program from it. Later I am going to nerd through the code and see how it works.
very nice. just out of curiosity, what is the reason for putting the glass over the board as it cooks? it is for keeping in the heat or for safety?
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 05:21 PM
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ergocentric's Avatar
15NM from CYYZ on 06L
Joined Feb 2007
632 Posts
Most heli gyros suggest foam double sided tape for mounting, why the hot glue?

kuk! kuk rules!

pretty please post the gyro code for my curiosity

eric.
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 05:31 PM
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km28104's Avatar
Indian Trail, NC
Joined Oct 2009
348 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob4432 View Post
very nice. just out of curiosity, what is the reason for putting the glass over the board as it cooks? it is for keeping in the heat or for safety?
Bob,

I suspect it's to localize the heat and make a mini oven.

Ken
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 05:32 PM
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United States, AZ
Joined May 2010
1,826 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ergocentric View Post
Most heli gyros suggest foam double sided tape for mounting, why the hot glue?

kuk! kuk rules!

pretty please post the gyro code for my curiosity

eric.
i believe it has been mentioned to mount the whole controller in a cushioned fashion to isolate all the gyros at once.
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 05:58 PM
Quad Whisperer
Joined Jul 2008
945 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by km28104 View Post
Bob,

I suspect it's to localize the heat and make a mini oven.

Ken
yep
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 06:00 PM
Quad Whisperer
Joined Jul 2008
945 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bob4432 View Post
i believe it has been mentioned to mount the whole controller in a cushioned fashion to isolate all the gyros at once.
Correct. This gives a larger mass, and thus easier to isolate from vibrations.
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Old Jun 30, 2010, 06:06 PM
Quad Whisperer
Joined Jul 2008
945 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkHeli View Post
Okay, we may be getting somewhere...

I plugged in my bec to RX OUT ports, and I get a green light, but it doesn't turn off. Voltage at the chip reads about 2 Volts. If I plug the bec into the ESC/motor out ports, I get no power to the chip and no light.

Perhaps I have a jumper wire not fully soldered, and not supplying power to the other half of board?
you have to check it out completely
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