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Old Jun 02, 2010, 01:03 PM
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I am a little embarrassed to ask.

I have followed this development fairly close and skimmed the thread, I am sure it is here somewhere but I can’t find it. I logged in to kkmulticopter.com and searched there also.

I got in (4) HK401’s and want to build this controller. I am good at soldering and can figure out the programming but am looking for a step by step of the assembly, maybe pics?

I understand the 401’s will be used for many of the parts, the rest I need to order. Is that cannibalization detailed somewhere?

I am looking forward to the “project” part of this and the final results.
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 01:40 PM
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United States, CA, San Jose
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Hello Cyhyam,

I'm almost done with my KK quad and will be posting a parts list, pictures and supplier links in about a week. See my mini how-to for programming recommendations.

You'll only need 3 of those HK 401B's and I recommend getting one of these unpopulated PC boards while they're still available, as it cost me $9 for a generic blank PCB and took several hours to solder all the wires to each component.
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 02:47 PM
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Hi Patricklupo,

I bought 4 of the 401s so I would have a spare.
I saw those unpopulated boards but since I will be using many of the components off the 401 gyros wouldn't I be looking for a surface mount board, the ones offered are thru hole.
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 03:37 PM
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Germantown, MD, US
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyhyam View Post
I am a little embarrassed to ask.

...I got in (4) HK401ís and want to build this controller. I am good at soldering and can figure out the programming but am looking for a step by step of the assembly, maybe pics?
...
Not sure what to provide for "step by step assembly". General rule is soldering the SMD main chip at last. Solder everything else first and check power reading across the power pins of the Atmel chip, and the 1.5v VREF out of the LM317 make sure they are correct, then solder in the main chip.

Some pics here with Kaptein's V5 PCB (you can ask Peter (Scorpia?) to get one):
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1498

Jussi (rc420pilot) also has some pics of the same SMD board.

Thanh
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesolins View Post
FYI Many kitchen cutting boards are mad out of Derlin. ...
The delrin material I bought from MC-Mastercar is much harder than the kitchen board. It is not flexible. It's almost like plexi glass.
But I think the kitchen cutting board would be nice to make motor mount or center plate for the quad / tri. Thanks very much for the hint!

Speaking of motor mount, anyone has any suggestion how to dampen the vibration from the motor? I'm thinking of putting some rubber (if I can find some) beneath the motor and around the screw to lessen the vibration on the frame.

ALSO, for mechanic gurus out there, my drill press chuck had an incident long time back which I drill something too hard, and it had a shock. After that the chuck is slightly less center. The chuck is installed into the drill press shaft by just pushing it in and hit it with a block of wood to make it stay. The shaft shape is a cone, and similarly for the chuck (a cone hole). My question is how do take the chuck out and reinstall it for straightness? Any suggestion?

Thanks very much

-Thanh
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 03:52 PM
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The SMD board uses the components specified by KK in very first post of this thread.

some of these components (47 uF caps, trimmers, Leds, servo wires) can be found in the HK401b gyros.

If you got the older XMhobbies version (Gy401b) with silver top and "Gyrd" on top you will also find an Atmega48 TQFP that fits the SMD board. Contact user Scorpia for those boards.

You still need to source resistors and some caps that are not found inside 401b-type gyros.

To desolder smd components you can use a hotair gun at about 250 degrees celsius. You can just push components aside when solder melts.

Remove the gyro board first and take care not to damage sensor by exposing it directly to the hot air or dropping it! The safe and slow way to remove gyro board is of course with solderiron and desoldering wick!
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 03:53 PM
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I'm currently in the process of making motor pinch mounts out of kitchen cutting board

Btw I bought scales and my controller weights just under 8gs.

Ben.
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 05:04 PM
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You can go SMD or not but I think the same gryos are needed (or at least are the more cost effective for their parts). I always prefer non-SMD as it's far easier to solder parts to and the size difference in the PCB doesn't matter unless your building a micro sized copter. I'll leave the SMD stuff to robots or folks with 20/20 vision and lots of patience.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyhyam View Post
Hi Patricklupo,

I bought 4 of the 401s so I would have a spare.
I saw those unpopulated boards but since I will be using many of the components off the 401 gyros wouldn't I be looking for a surface mount board, the ones offered are thru hole.
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by thanhTran View Post
The shaft shape is a cone, and similarly for the chuck (a cone hole). My question is how do take the chuck out and reinstall it for straightness? Any suggestion?

Thanks very much

-Thanh
Bear with me as I'm tryin to do this at work from my cell phone in my shop. What you are gunna have to do is lower the chuck a lil with the handle till you see the long slot. You might have to turn it just a bit till you can see throught it. there should be a wedge shape key that should have came with your drill press. The key goes into the slot and lightly tap it with a hammer while your holding onto the chuck. It should pop right out. Be careful not to let it hit the floor as the taper has to be smooth to fit back it. I will try to attach some pics to show you what to look for.
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 06:38 PM
That tree again!!!!
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Germantown, MD, US
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Originally Posted by braindead4554 View Post
.... there should be a wedge shape key that should have came with your drill press. The key goes into the slot and lightly tap it with a hammer while your holding onto the chuck. It should pop right out....
Thanks very much for your help! I will try to see if I can do that tonight. I don't remember my drill press come with any other key. It's been around 5 years since I've bought it, and I've moved, so chances are any accessory coming with it might have lost . Will see what it looks like tonight.
The photos were perfect. What phone is that?

Thanks

-Thanh
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 07:30 PM
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Delrin...yep darn spell checker... The cutting boards tend to melt using table and probably radial arm saws or even simple sabre saws, although they will still work with a bit of edge sanding clean up afterwards. I found band saws worked for the cleanest cuts. And yes... some of the cutting boards are nylon-ish, but that works well too
Cheers,
Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ergocentric View Post
1. Delrin, please not derlin, very tough, power tools only (Polyoxymethylene)
2. cutting boards are better because they are cheaper and strong enough
they are made from high density polyethylene (HDPE), not delrin

My opinion
Eric

I will use a cutting board and a radial arm saw, though the thick ones are getting difficult to find.
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by patricklupo View Post
You can go SMD or not but I think the same gryos are needed (or at least are the more cost effective for their parts). I always prefer non-SMD as it's far easier to solder parts to and the size difference in the PCB doesn't matter unless your building a micro sized copter. I'll leave the SMD stuff to robots or folks with 20/20 vision and lots of patience.
SMD doesn't scare me a bit, I have the right equipment and have done a fair bit in the past. I prefer SMD in vibration enviroments although if thru hole is the only board available then I will do that before using perf.
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thanhTran View Post
Thanks very much for your help! I will try to see if I can do that tonight. I don't remember my drill press come with any other key. It's been around 5 years since I've bought it, and I've moved, so chances are any accessory coming with it might have lost . Will see what it looks like tonight.
The photos were perfect. What phone is that?

Thanks

-Thanh
Glad I could help! Anything with a taper or maybe even a screwdriver could work. My phone is a BlackBerry Tour 9630. Not a bad phone to take pics with. Its the only thing I have to take pics with lol
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 420RcPilot View Post
To desolder smd components you can use a hotair gun at about 250 degrees celsius. You can just push components aside when solder melts.
What i do is to lift the board by holding the component up, when the board falls away, you have your component.
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Old Jun 03, 2010, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by km28104 View Post
You might want to rethink the c channel. It has poor torsional strength and can add to gyro instability. Square channel would work much better.

Ken
That was my first thought. But I'm still looking around for a local supplier. But I alreadly had the c channel laying around so I was gunna try it out. I cut them kinda short and tryed twisting them in my hands. Didn't really flex much but a lil probably will go along way with the gyros. Thanks for the tip.
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