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Old May 10, 2011, 11:28 PM
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at Marcs in Laverton north.
Yarra Valley Aeromodellers me.

My maiden is planned for some unknown date in the future... I have put the un-opened box (well, it's been opened and the wings have been fondled and the stock retracts removed) up on a shelf and am waiting for a couple of my other builds to be completed and flown before I even think about doing the heap of work I want to do on this model.

Good luck. I hear that this model lands very fast!

Hugh
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Old May 11, 2011, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by MerlinV View Post
Yarra Valley Aeromodellers me.

My maiden is planned for some unknown date in the future... I have put the un-opened box (well, it's been opened and the wings have been fondled and the stock retracts removed) up on a shelf and am waiting for a couple of my other builds to be completed and flown before I even think about doing the heap of work I want to do on this model.

Good luck. I hear that this model lands very fast!

Hugh

Hugh,
I hope you'll keep us up to date when you begin your build.... I found this kit to be an absolute joy to scratch out scale details and I'll really be looking forward to what you come up with. Unfortunately, it remains to be maidened as of yet due to winds and lack of an appropriate runway surface.

Cheers,

Dick
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Old May 11, 2011, 12:23 AM
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I've just grabbed a pull-pull system to replace the carbon and rod setup on the rudder. Hoping the little bit of difference in weight will make a bigger difference up front. Not happy with having to use around 330g of lead. I'd rather add the extra weight through a bigger engine and know for sure it was going to get airborne.
Will keep tinkering away. Its flying this weekend even if i have to swing it around on a string. That'd be a work out.
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Old May 11, 2011, 12:37 AM
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Another thought.....how are these stock wheels gonna go on bumpy grassed ground?
Plus the odd rabbit scratchings.
I have some slightly bigger wheels from the organ donor phoenix classic. Theyre softer so maybe less bouncy and more suitable for the grass u think?
Cheers
Michael
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Old May 11, 2011, 02:43 AM
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Certainly more suitable for our Australian swards. But maybe too big to fit in the wheel wles when retracted. The way the model is set up though, having those larger and slightly heavier wheels forward of the CG is sure to help.

Cheers,

Hugh

PS. Capt, you will be sick of my updates by the end!
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Old May 11, 2011, 03:47 AM
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Hey Michael, the retracts are back in stock at Hobbyking! http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=14838

John
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Old May 11, 2011, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by johnUK66 View Post
Hey Michael, the retracts are back in stock at Hobbyking! http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=14838

John
That'd be right. I order some servos and stuff on backorder and its been over 2 months waiting so far. So i didnt wanna order those retracts and have to wait, so i got a couple of hitec 75BB retract servos instead. My retracts are set up now. Appreciate the tip though.
Michael
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Old May 11, 2011, 06:28 AM
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I gfigured it was too late, but thought worth letting you know anyways. No probs, John
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Old May 11, 2011, 08:33 AM
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The wheel wells are ugly. I've removed them and sealed and painted the exposed wood black. I use 2.75" robart wheels.
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Old May 11, 2011, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MerlinV View Post
Certainly more suitable for our Australian swards. But maybe too big to fit in the wheel wles when retracted. The way the model is set up though, having those larger and slightly heavier wheels forward of the CG is sure to help.

Cheers,

Hugh

PS. Capt, you will be sick of my updates by the end!
I really doubt that very much. I think most of the subscribers here would be interested - so we'll be looking forward to it.
Cheers
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Old May 11, 2011, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MerlinV View Post
Certainly more suitable for our Australian swards. But maybe too big to fit in the wheel wles when retracted. The way the model is set up though, having those larger and slightly heavier wheels forward of the CG is sure to help.

Cheers,

Hugh

PS. Capt, you will be sick of my updates by the end!
Ok i have a seagull pc-9 40 size and the wheels are 1mm bigger than the spitfires. Theyre firm but more spongy than the spitfires. My thinking is that being spongier they will not bounce the spitty around so much on the bumpy turf. Anyone think otherwise?

All i need do now is fasten the RX and i'm ready to go, unless i change the wheels. I put it a pull pull rudder system last night and reduced the tail weight by a small smidgeon.
The weekend may not be suitable for the maiden now, except maybe for a Noah type ark.
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Old May 11, 2011, 10:08 PM
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Oleos make a huge difference in reducing bouncing. My warbirds with oleos really stick to the ground if I do my part.
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Old May 12, 2011, 03:20 AM
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Oleos make a huge difference in reducing bouncing. My warbirds with oleos really stick to the ground if I do my part.
Thanks for the VERY USEFUL tip. I didnt know about those. I checked them out but the cost, and the fact that the plane is ready to fly now means the oleos seem better to have on my next plane. I have a hangar 9 mustang 60 size due in 2 weeks approx. I'll consider the oleos on that. I'll bet they look pretty spiffy on ur warbirds though.
Cheers
Michael
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Old May 12, 2011, 08:20 AM
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I buy cheap oleos now. I used to buy robostruts. No longer.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1308259

I like these, and put the nose strut in a drawer or give it away....
http://www.rc-warbirds.com/product_i...roducts_id/679
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Old May 12, 2011, 11:08 PM
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Very nice landing on the spit in those strong winds!


I broke my tail wheel today. The metal rod broke right as it enters the plastic brace. Dang. Is anyone using after-market tail wheels?
Any ideas?
Thank you much.. I've gotten pretty used to these crappy winds where i fly.. but i think it's help me become a better flyer.. i think.. lol.

Anyway.. I have replaced that tail wheel twice.

First time it was just the wire, but that was easy. i had some piano wire i cut and bent to shape. Important thing was to just go ahead and cut the rudder hinges off completely and re-do them. I got the old wire out, routed the wire through the plastic anchor, then bent it to fit into the rudder. Once that was glued in, I did the new hinges, then bent the wheel section. Wasn't hard at all. Then my entire plastic piece broke off.. but i went ahead and cut away the old hinges and redid all that and went with an aftermarket tail wheel from dubro.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD851&P=7
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