Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 04:58 PM
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John O'Sullivan's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talontsi96 View Post
. Since I only used CA to hold the motor mounts, I decided to put CA them back on and used Zip ties as well to hold them to the arms. The vibration problem is caused by:

1. The motor mounts cut by Jim are too thin and actually have some give....

...
I have Jim's Frame and mounts and have been very pleased with them. Despite not being able to use the spacers (my booms are 0.6" diam), I found his frame and motor mount to be adequately strong and stiff.

CA and zip ties is in no way adequate to secure the motor mount to the boom. These things take a pounding and CA is a brittle adhesive at best.
I used kevlar tow binding and epoxy to secure the mount to the boom. This gives a secure and vibration resistant mount.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=2955763

John
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 05:05 PM
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Near Austin
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Talontsi96,

What size CF tube did you use? Reason I asked is that I finally got to work on mine today and I settled on using 1/2" dia CF tube but I machined aluminum plugs into go in the ends and screw thru the aluminum to attach to the body. I started to use arrow shafts and said "Naaahhhh, too light!" and after reading what you posted I think I'm glad I did!

Gene
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 05:18 PM
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I used carbon golf club shafts with 2" inserts of aluminium tubing to prevent splitting of the unidirectional carbon.
Typically, unless specifically specified, carbon tubes are made of unidirectional carbon cloth and have very poor resistance to longitudinal splitting.

John
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 06:21 PM
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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I used the 10mmX10mm square with a 8mm round CF Tube from HK...This stuff:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=9012

Thanks for the post on Jim's frame results...That's good news.... Looks like I put too much foam on the motor mounts....I also did not put the CF tube to the end of the motor mounts like you did. I put the CF tube to about the edge of the hole for the center of the motor... By doing this the motor mount is not reinforced to the edge and does bend quite a bit when the motor torques. Now how do I detach the motor mounts and landing gear from the CF tubes after they have been CA'd together. Any good tricks in separating parts that have been CA'd together?
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 06:38 PM
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Swansea, Massachusetts
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here is a quick vid showing the arming with the new eurgle radios

arming sequence on an eurgle radio tricopter (2 min 50 sec)
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 07:09 PM
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Joined Feb 2007
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OK, I'm in! This tricopter seems to fly very well and you guys seem to be having alot of fun so I decided to give this build a try. I'll start with a trainer as I've only flown coaxial copters before (blade cx and llama 2). My frame will be pretty much the same as the build thread specs. 1/4" Birch ply platform and arms of 1/2" by 5/8" poplar. I may go a bit longer and then cut them down to standard 20" length later if needed. My parts are on their way via slow boat from China. I'm not too familiar with all of this heli jargon and radio programming (I have the Optic 6) so I'm sure I will have plenty of questions and need plenty of help. I'm currently working on the frame and trying to figure out my yaw motor mound and pivot.
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 07:44 PM
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good lookin frame there BatterysI

you know this stuff can become addictive!
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 07:46 PM
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
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Originally Posted by CoastalTom View Post
good lookin frame there BatterysI

you know this stuff can become addictive!

In my neck of the woods, we have an expression: you ain't never LIED with that one. LOL
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 07:48 PM
Flying with the eagles
etman's Avatar
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Nice build there BatterysIncluded. Are batteries included or each sold separately?
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 07:49 PM
Flying with the eagles
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My friend commented on my tricopter that the electronics are exposed and hey it don't look like a finished product. Hah! who cares
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 07:53 PM
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I'll have to remember that one RR!
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 07:57 PM
Aint nothing like a Mongrel!!
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Australia, NSW, Yass
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Nice one Batteries. Make sure that ply is nice and stiff. I used 4mm and it has too much flex so I need to keep the weight down.

Like you, I have only had limited exposure to Helis. I had co-ax and then a Blade400, but just never felt comfortable with the Blade.

Today I just went out and put 6 batteries through the Triceratops (as my daughter named it) and after the first two batteries I was doing more with it than I ever did with my blade400. Nose in Hovers are a NO GO, but that's OK, who needs em.

I started to get really comfortable with forward flight, and it is amazingly easy to fly when it is moving forward. A little tip.... use both the Ail and Rudd to steer it around - unlike a plank where you just bank and yank. Once I got used to having to do most steering with the rudder channel, I started to really get the hang of it.

My emergency procedures are... give it gas, and re-orient it with tail towards you. It took me a little bit to get away from killing the throttle on emergencies, but my Blade400 taught me that at least.

Good luck dude.

Cheers
-J
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 08:00 PM
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by etman View Post
My friend commented on my tricopter that the electronics are exposed and hey it don't look like a finished product. Hah! who cares
That's why I'm going out of my way to hide the wires inside the booms and later on will build a canopy for the central portion to hide everything. I'm on a mission first thing tomorrow... I'm planning on buying some 10mm round tubing (local hobby stores don't carry the big square stuff). I'll leave the rear square portion as it sits (since it did not crack and looks and feels strong). The two front square portions will be disassembled and the new round tubing will be used for the arms. I'll try to pick up some aluminum square or round tubing that the CF round tubing will be epoxied to. The aluminum will be drilled for the pivot bolts... The wiring will still go inside the tubing and pop out at the motor mounts. The motor mounts will be mounted further out on the tube such that there will be little flex to them. I will use thinner rubber isolators between the motor mounts and the motors so that there will be less flex in that as well.. After its all done. We'll try to spin her up again..... wish me luck for tomorrow.
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 08:04 PM
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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Originally Posted by The_Mongrel View Post
Nice one Batteries. Make sure that ply is nice and stiff. I used 4mm and it has too much flex so I need to keep the weight down.

Like you, I have only had limited exposure to Helis. I had co-ax and then a Blade400, but just never felt comfortable with the Blade.

Today I just went out and put 6 batteries through the Triceratops (as my daughter named it) and after the first two batteries I was doing more with it than I ever did with my blade400. Nose in Hovers are a NO GO, but that's OK, who needs em.

I started to get really comfortable with forward flight, and it is amazingly easy to fly when it is moving forward. A little tip.... use both the Ail and Rudd to steer it around - unlike a plank where you just bank and yank. Once I got used to having to do most steering with the rudder channel, I started to really get the hang of it.

My emergency procedures are... give it gas, and re-orient it with tail towards you. It took me a little bit to get away from killing the throttle on emergencies, but my Blade400 taught me that at least.

Good luck dude.

Cheers
-J
So would you say that its easier to fly than the blade then? I never flew the Blade 400 but had my practice with the Lite Machines Corona years ago and recently the little Blade MSr. I have no problems with nose hovers on the MSr... so if the Tri flies easier than the MSr which I would think would be harder than the Blade 400..I should be OK with the Tri...
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 08:09 PM
Aint nothing like a Mongrel!!
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Australia, NSW, Yass
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talontsi96 View Post
So would you say that its easier to fly than the blade then? I never flew the Blade 400 but had my practice with the Lite Machines Corona years ago and recently the little Blade MSr. I have no problems with nose hovers on the MSr... so if the Tri flies easier than the MSr which I would think would be harder than the Blade 400..I should be OK with the Tri...
The Tri is MUCH easier to fly than the blade. Maybe it is because I find it easier to orient the Tri than the blade. I used the Pool Noodles for landing gear and the rear one is now Blue. This makes it easy for me to see where it is facing. The good thing is it is just so stable. It just sort of hangs around until you tell it where to go. It takes your head a little bit to get around the fact that you have to lean on a stick to make it go forward. Unlike a plane where if you lean on that same stick, you eat dirt!!

But yes... I find it easier than the Blade. I was always very nervous trying to fly my Blade.
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