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Old Jan 24, 2010, 02:30 PM
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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OK... It would be great if I knew what all that meant in the programming. I'm quite blind when it comes to the EPA settings and swash mix settings in the TX. What I did confirm though is that when swapping the ESC and motors between CH1 and 6, the symptoms reversed. Therfore it means that whatever ESC and motor is plugged into CH 6 is the one that seems to have a reversed throttle. Also what I noticed is when I'm running the yaw servo directly from CH4 it returns to center when yaw stick centers, when I'm running it through the HK401 gyro, it does not return to center. when the stick is moved to the left the servo moves and stays there when the stick is released, when the stick is moved in the opposite direction the servo moves in the opposite direction but again stays there when the stick is released. This is quite weird...I probably have my sensitivities of the gyro set up wrong or to the wrong channel or something. This is really becoming overwhelming for me... Too much weird stuff is happening at once for my little brain to comprehend and troubleshoot.

I do think that the CH6 motor issue has to be related to the Swash mix programming, or some other issue in the programming of the TX... I wish I just knew enough which settings to start changing....
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by capt View Post
Are you sure you have that motor plugged into the right ch? I think that is ch 6 for the RH motor (at least it is on my HiTec) put it back to normal-not reversed. If that doesn't do it then try changing the swash mix on that ch, ex if it is set at +100 change it to -100. One other thing to look at is the EPA setting for that ch as well.
Hey Thanks, I reversed CH6 and it seems to work OK now...except for the issue with the yaw gyro I posted in my previous post.
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 02:40 PM
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Tal, your 401 gyro is operating in HH (heading hold ) mode. If it was in rate, it would return to center,like being plugged straight in. HH is OK.
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 02:43 PM
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yep your yaw is in heading hold. Im not sure about HH on the yaw, always had a just a rate gyro on my yaw so HH was not an option.
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by capt View Post
Are you sure you have that motor plugged into the right ch? I think that is ch 6 for the RH motor (at least it is on my HiTec) put it back to normal-not reversed. If that doesn't do it then try changing the swash mix on that ch, ex if it is set at +100 change it to -100. One other thing to look at is the EPA setting for that ch as well.
Capt, you are correct, I transposed my chnls in my previous post. I have now edited it to be correct. (I hope)

Tom
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Talontsi96 View Post
Hey Thanks, I reversed CH6 and it seems to work OK now...except for the issue with the yaw gyro I posted in my previous post.
Cool, now if you really want to use the Corona Rx you need to make some changes to how things power up and here is an excellent tutorial from X-Ilmar on page 75 of this thread.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1121

Tri-copter_init (1 min 18 sec)
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 03:07 PM
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Australia, NSW, Yass
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Originally Posted by starz View Post
Here’s my power up sequence:

1: Turn on Tx. (Duh, Huh?)
2: Plug battery…wait for gyros to give me the pretty blue lights.
3: Power up escs…wait for funny beeps.
4: Go flying

Granted, the escs don’t “always” power up properly, where they just keep on beeping. So I unplug and start again, but it’s always worked on the second try, so far. I’m thinking that my settings aren’t quite right yet? Don’t understand why it sometimes does that, and other times not. Most times it works fine.

I don’t power everything up at once, “that” was giving me problems. Especially that one time when the motors spun up unexpectedly and darn near took my arm off! Man those are blades sharp!!! I still have the proof on my fore arm.

So I installed a switch in the battery harness going to the escs, so I don’t forget "not" to power everything up at once. Never had any other problems since.

Mike
I found a really easy solution to that - well I didn't find it, it was on the wiring diagram I followed... Power the BEC off the balance plug on the battery. That will power the RX, and Gyros. Then wait a few seconds, and plug the main pack in. Works like a charm!!

Cheers
-J
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Talontsi96 View Post
Ok. Played with it some more... I can consistantly now get all three Telebees to light up blue and the motors to stop beeping. All is quiet but there is still no response from anything when I move the sticks on the TX. ???? No twitching of motors or anything...just silence. I converted my nice beeping device to a device that does nothing but shine three blue lights and blink a red one on the HK401... WOW.. I'm really making progress..

So can anyone answer some ??? Are the telebees supposed to e set to digital or standard servos (I've re-read the first few pages of the thread and I see they need to be in STD)? Is the lack of a UBEC have anything to do with my troubles? Is there some kind of setup procedure to this whole thing before the motors start spinning when given throttle? I'm STUMPED......
I would use the Balance Plug method with a BEC. That will at least isolate the problem of the gyros not powering up properly.

Short of that... try one at a time. Unplug everything except the rear motor. REMOVE all the props and so that it does not flip or anything, and then start playing.

Cheers
-J
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by starz View Post
Okay, I’m not going to change any of my settings, but I am really confused here. Maybe the length of the arms has something to do with it?

Signguy, has his throttle curve set at 8% across the board, well, um, if I try “that”, my tri is totally un-flyable!

Using the eurgle system, I have set my throttle curve to 41% across the board, and it flies great. My arms are only 13 inches from center of frame to the motor shaft though. Am thinking this may have something to do with it? Perhaps?

Any thoughts? Just curious about this.

Mike
I am glad you raise this. Mine is exactly the same. If I try and set my GAIN on my Gyro to anything lower that 50% (which then becomes rate mode) the thing is completely unflyable!! Set the GAIN back up around 75% and it settles in nicely.

So I am not sure why there is lots of comment about having the Gyros in RATE mode, because if my DX7 settings are anything to go by, mine are in HH mode - Just like my B400.
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talontsi96 View Post
OK... It would be great if I knew what all that meant in the programming. I'm quite blind when it comes to the EPA settings and swash mix settings in the TX. What I did confirm though is that when swapping the ESC and motors between CH1 and 6, the symptoms reversed. Therfore it means that whatever ESC and motor is plugged into CH 6 is the one that seems to have a reversed throttle. Also what I noticed is when I'm running the yaw servo directly from CH4 it returns to center when yaw stick centers, when I'm running it through the HK401 gyro, it does not return to center. when the stick is moved to the left the servo moves and stays there when the stick is released, when the stick is moved in the opposite direction the servo moves in the opposite direction but again stays there when the stick is released. This is quite weird...I probably have my sensitivities of the gyro set up wrong or to the wrong channel or something. This is really becoming overwhelming for me... Too much weird stuff is happening at once for my little brain to comprehend and troubleshoot.

I do think that the CH6 motor issue has to be related to the Swash mix programming, or some other issue in the programming of the TX... I wish I just knew enough which settings to start changing....
One thing I found is If I had my GAIN on my Gyros either too hight or too low, the ESCs would not arm. Maybe try bring your gain back to a central position to start.

Cheers
-J
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 03:38 PM
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Nova Scotia Canada
Joined Jan 2004
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Thanks everyone for your help. Things are becoming a bit clearer, but it's still very scary, like a first date.
Got the beast running now in a reasonable fashion. Had a problem with the roll control being reversed. I reversed Channel 1 and 6 plug-ins and it was OK. However as I wanted right motor on channel 1, I found that by changing the signs on the Swash AFR, it produced the correct response.

Still a lot of tuning to do with regards to gains etc, but am making progress.
Just going to have a nice bit of salmon for supper.

Can't wait to hoist the camera.

John
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 03:42 PM
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Redmond OR
Joined Dec 2009
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Heading hold or rate the only sure way

Mongrel

The only way to check for sure if in rate or HH is to put a servo after gyro temperarly and check it.. I have a 9303 also JR that is just the oposite of most all other transmitters on the forum and I run my telebees at 95%.. The 5 -7 % suggested puts mine in heading hold. Dont really understand it Mike has DX7 and has his at 7% I belive. Its weird thats all I got to say.
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 03:45 PM
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Thanks much, The Mongrel for showing your DX7 set up. I do appreciate it. I helped me a lot.

Tbee.
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 04:00 PM
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Swansea, Massachusetts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starz View Post
Okay, I’m not going to change any of my settings, but I am really confused here. Maybe the length of the arms has something to do with it?

Signguy, has his throttle curve set at 8% across the board, well, um, if I try “that”, my tri is totally un-flyable!

Using the eurgle system, I have set my throttle curve to 41% across the board, and it flies great. My arms are only 13 inches from center of frame to the motor shaft though. Am thinking this may have something to do with it? Perhaps?

Any thoughts? Just curious about this.

Mike
Hey Capt

Short arms require less gain. The longer the arms are the more gain you can crank up. Also, if the arms/motors are very light, you will have to lower tthe gains.
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Old Jan 24, 2010, 04:29 PM
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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Ok.. Good news an bad news.... I got everything to work as it should...forwrd, back, left right and yaw... So the programing is all good... BAD news. is I put the props on and as soon as I tried to power it up there was a weird vibration and all motor mounts broke off the frame. Since I only used CA to hold the motor mounts, I decided to put CA them back on and used Zip ties as well to hold them to the arms. Power up again, same vibration... I checked and one of the carbon fiber rods is cracked (Yeah I know I should'nt have drilled into it) this is not the cause of the vibration problem though... The vibration problem is caused by:

1. The motor mounts cut by Jim are too thin and actually have some give....

2. I used rubber spacers on the bottom of the screws and had the motors sitting on vibration absorbing rubber giving the motors extra play.

3. a combination of the two mentioned above.

Does anyone have a tri built with Jim's frame that has been test flown? I'm thinking you may end up with a problem due to the motor mounts flexing.

In any event I'm out of commission for now. I don't have any more carbon fiber rods to fix the one that cracked. I also do not have screws that are short enough to use on the motor mounts without the rubber isolation that I was using (the ones I have are too long for that and will interfere with the motor if I don't use some spacers). So I'm out of commission for now. I may pick up some aluminum square tubing and try to rebuild it again..but aluminum will add even more weight to it and I'm not sure I want that. I may just have to order more CF tubing from HK and wait... and this time use some aluminum tubing that I drill through and CA or epoxy the HK CF tube inside the aluminum one (if I can find the right size for one to slip into the other. I'm happy that I got the programing and electronics to work (at least appear to work) properly. I am sad that I'm out of commission with this thing for a little while and I'm worried that the motor mounts that came with Jim's kit are too thin and will cause this vibration all over again.

Also, I say be really careful around this thing... I wanted to hold the broken CF tube in order to feel the vibration while I spun up the Tri a bit and one of the other blades caught just above my knee. It cut right through my pants and cut me really good... Band aid time.....and time to call it quits with the Tri for the time being....
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