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Old Jan 21, 2010, 09:01 PM
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Bob - One thing I have noticed in your videos is how your tri seems so light and floating - I know you have said it before I think that it weighs in at 24oz - could you tell me how much each arm weights with motor and esc - I am going for the lightest possible setup and I just cant see how to make it any lighter - Thanks

Mike

Also there are 4 SS speed controllers in the classifieds for 30 bucks shipped - If anyone is needing parts -
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 09:44 PM
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Eagle's nest
Joined Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reverendrichie View Post
Just a quick note about safety with these tricopters, what I noticed is, because we are not using the throttle channel but pitch to simulate throttle, the throttle cut does not function. If you are not aware of this already, what I would suggest is programming a flat 0,0,0,0 pitch curve for the Idle up so when the idle switch is turned on and you accidentally push the throttle, the copter will not spin up.
Yup, I cut my finger, ouch!
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 10:36 PM
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RR - good info! I will have to see if I can figure that out on my transmitter!

Hey all - I think I asked this around last weekend but as fast as this thread is moving I could have easily missed an answer if there was one ... I glanced back over the past several pages and didn't see an answer so I figured I'd ask again...

I pulled out the paperwork that came with my Telebee's and couldn't find the answer there so... The "Reverse" switch on these gyros - where is everyone's set? Would it be safe to say that if the servo output is facing the arm of the Tri than the reverse switch should be set on "A" ???

I'm going to take my Tri out to give it another spinup tomorrow to test and figured I'd check over everything possible This is one setting that I've yet to hear about. I can't be the only one thinking about this can I???
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Would it be safe to say that if the servo output is facing the arm of the Tri than the reverse switch should be set on "A" ???
Unquote:

Yes, this would be correct.
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Old Jan 22, 2010, 06:45 AM
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Did a little bit more on my Tri tonight.

Looking back through the thread, I am wondering if my ply is thick enough. I only used 4mm ply - God I hope it will be strong enough!!
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Old Jan 22, 2010, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by nocontrol1 View Post
Has anybody run into an issue with the motors having momentary increases in speed? I was running the tri on the bench tonight and each of the motors (not at the same time) will have a "bump" up in speed that lasts a little less than a second. I connected servos to the gyros instead of the ESC's and the servos would show a brief twitch. Any Ideas?

Thanks,

Rob D.
Just an update- After taking the Telebee gyros out of the system and plugging servos directly into the RX, the "bump" is gone. Do you think I have bad gyros? All three? Or is there some setting or adjustment needed.

Rob D.
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Old Jan 22, 2010, 07:55 AM
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I am just curious, did you try spinning the motors without the blades? If so what happened?

Quote:
Originally Posted by nocontrol1 View Post
Just an update- After taking the Telebee gyros out of the system and plugging servos directly into the RX, the "bump" is gone. Do you think I have bad gyros? All three? Or is there some setting or adjustment needed.

Rob D.
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Old Jan 22, 2010, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nocontrol1 View Post
Just an update- After taking the Telebee gyros out of the system and plugging servos directly into the RX, the "bump" is gone. Do you think I have bad gyros? All three? Or is there some setting or adjustment needed.

Rob D.
I had this problem when running the gyros in digital mode. Changed to analog and it went away.
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Old Jan 22, 2010, 08:03 AM
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Will try- thanks.

RoB D.

edit- I had it in analog mode, tried in digital mode and it seems better, but still has an occasional twitch.
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Old Jan 22, 2010, 08:03 AM
Where'd The Wise Men Go?!?
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United States, NE, Bellevue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by starz View Post
Quote:
Would it be safe to say that if the servo output is facing the arm of the Tri than the reverse switch should be set on "A" ???
Unquote:

Yes, this would be correct.
Starz - thx!! Brought my Tri into work w/me today. I'm in a big open room where I have plenty of space to test. Hopefully by this afternoon I'll have made some good progress?!
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Old Jan 22, 2010, 09:14 AM
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Swansea, Massachusetts
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Originally Posted by nocontrol1 View Post
Will try- thanks.

RoB D.

edit- I had it in analog mode, tried in digital mode and it seems better, but still has an occasional twitch.
Take the telebee apart and see if the "guts" are held in place tightly by the foam tape inside. The insides may be bouncing around in the case. I had one like this. I do get an occasional hit of throttle, but very seldom, and so little I'm the only one that notices.
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Old Jan 22, 2010, 09:16 AM
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Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Joined Jun 2004
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I did some more work on my tri-copter. I installed the yaw servo and finished the tilting mechanism. I ran the motor wires inside the CF channel for the two front motors. For the tail, I ran the wires inside plastic wire channel that I bought at Ikea since there was no way to run the wires inside the boom due to the yaw servo mechanism. This thing I picked up at Ikea was made for the tri-copter, its 10mm wide and comes complete with a 3M tape strip that secures the thing to the boom. I ran mine at the bottom of the tail boom and it looks factory. The wire channel is white so it differentiates the tail from the rest of the tri and will hopefully help orientation.

I have a question though. How much play/slop is OK for the motors. I secured one of the motors on top of vibration isolating rubber and used little rubber washers on the bottom of the bolts. So there is a bolt head, rubber, frame, rubber, motor, nut. With this arrangement I see that if i pull on the motor side to side, there is some give. Is this OK or should the motor by rigidly mounted to the frame?
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Old Jan 22, 2010, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdi3d View Post
Bob - One thing I have noticed in your videos is how your tri seems so light and floating - I know you have said it before I think that it weighs in at 24oz - could you tell me how much each arm weights with motor and esc - I am going for the lightest possible setup and I just cant see how to make it any lighter - Thanks

Mike

Also there are 4 SS speed controllers in the classifieds for 30 bucks shipped - If anyone is needing parts -
My complete copter with battery is 32oz. That is without the camera, but with a 3cell 2200 mah lipoly. I don't know what the arms weight , but I know the wood I used for the arms is 1.8 oz per arm at 20".....
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Old Jan 22, 2010, 09:23 AM
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Swansea, Massachusetts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talontsi96 View Post
I did some more work on my tri-copter. I installed the yaw servo and finished the tilting mechanism. I ran the motor wires inside the CF channel for the two front motors. For the tail, I ran the wires inside plastic wire channel that I bought at Ikea since there was no way to run the wires inside the boom due to the yaw servo mechanism. This thing I picked up at Ikea was made for the tri-copter, its 10mm wide and comes complete with a 3M tape strip that secures the thing to the boom. I ran mine at the bottom of the tail boom and it looks factory. The wire channel is white so it differentiates the tail from the rest of the tri and will hopefully help orientation.

I have a question though. How much play/slop is OK for the motors. I secured one of the motors on top of vibration isolating rubber and used little rubber washers on the bottom of the bolts. So there is a bolt head, rubber, frame, rubber, motor, nut. With this arrangement I see that if i pull on the motor side to side, there is some give. Is this OK or should the motor by rigidly mounted to the frame?
That should work. I don't think a very rigid mount is needed. I just use tie wraps, and 3M VHB tape to mount the motors. The tape hold it in position, and the tie wraps take the "pull". Mike cdi3d gave me the tie wrap idea.
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Old Jan 22, 2010, 10:05 AM
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Here is an all carbon/aluminum framed tricopter. I used the same plans, just cut from different materials. The center frame is two sheets of .012 aluminum over a plastic core, the arms are HC 10mm carbon with dowels glued into the ends. I used a HK401b for the yaw, but it needs to be hooked to a channel for gain. I'll program one of the knobs on the Eurgle to take care of the gyro gain.

At about 1 min in the video, I show the hands off stability. This is the first flight, using settings from my other copter.

texaspete's copter (5 min 53 sec)
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Last edited by signguy; Jan 22, 2010 at 10:13 AM. Reason: forgot the link!!
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