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Old Jan 20, 2010, 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by CoastalTom View Post
Here's a couple of views from the other side to show the linkage. Typical heli type link of ball links and short threaded rod.
Man, you've cut the shaft so short! If you ever want to use a prop that is a bit thicker it will not fit.
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 09:43 PM
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Has anybody run into an issue with the motors having momentary increases in speed? I was running the tri on the bench tonight and each of the motors (not at the same time) will have a "bump" up in speed that lasts a little less than a second. I connected servos to the gyros instead of the ESC's and the servos would show a brief twitch. Any Ideas?

Thanks,

Rob D.
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by nocontrol1 View Post
Has anybody run into an issue with the motors having momentary increases in speed? I was running the tri on the bench tonight and each of the motors (not at the same time) will have a "bump" up in speed that lasts a little less than a second. I connected servos to the gyros instead of the ESC's and the servos would show a brief twitch. Any Ideas?

Thanks,

Rob D.
Yes I experienced that glitchiness sometimes too.

Since you swapped the ESCs for servos, it has to be the signals coming from the receiver and gyros that are not stable.

Ruled out the ESC and ruled out interference.

I thought that might be the BEC giving out too low a voltage, since I always get it at the end of a battery charge. I switched my BEC from 5V to 6V to power up my RX and seems like it is better.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1581
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by BatterysIncluded View Post
Which pin?
For servo connectors, there is either Brown/Red/Yellow or Black/Red/White.
Signal is yellow or white.
You only need to connect the yellow wires together in parallel.
It might look funny, but only 1 yellow wire goes into your RX. The other two wires(brown/red) are not needed.

I solder 3 pin headers onto a breadboard and this makes it easier to connect.
You can buy one of these and cut them into smaller pieces.
http://www.nkcelectronics.com/break-...header-ma.html
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 10:00 PM
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Sorry, didn't mention- this happens with a nicd pack or BEC into the rx. ESC's are out near the motors, gyros are on the center board.

Rob D.
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by nocontrol1 View Post
Sorry, didn't mention- this happens with a nicd pack or BEC into the rx. ESC's are out near the motors, gyros are on the center board.

Rob D.
Seems like interference is ruled out since your ESC and gyros are far away.
My guess is the nicad voltage drops a lot or the BEC voltage drops.
Could you measure the voltage to the RX?
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 10:12 PM
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Thanks etman! I figured the signal pin but just wanted to verify rather than fry. It all makes sense now.

-Gary



Quote:
Originally Posted by etman View Post
For servo connectors, there is either Brown/Red/Yellow or Black/Red/White.
Signal is yellow or white.
You only need to connect the yellow wires together in parallel.
It might look funny, but only 1 yellow wire goes into your RX. The other two wires(brown/red) are not needed.

I solder 3 pin headers onto a breadboard and this makes it easier to connect.
You can buy one of these and cut them into smaller pieces.
http://www.nkcelectronics.com/break-...header-ma.html
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 10:13 PM
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I just put the loaded meter on the Nicd- 1 amp load leveled out at 4.84v. The esc leveled out at 4.96v with the 1 amp load.

Rob D.
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by nocontrol1 View Post
I just put the loaded meter on the Nicd- 1 amp load leveled out at 4.84v. The esc leveled out at 4.96v with the 1 amp load.

Rob D.
Sorry I'm not too sure whether that is enough voltage. But I'll go with 6V instead of 5V. Especially if you're using a 2.4Ghz receiver.

I currently use this
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._5.5~23v_Input

Maybe this will be better. It has "noise reduction".
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...oise_Reduction
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 10:29 PM
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Duh! That's the bec I have- the dual voltage one. I set it to the 6 volt and got 5.96 under load. The motors still bump up. Do you think this is a flyability issue?
Futaba 9c on 50 mhz, PCM rx.
Rob D.
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by BatterysIncluded View Post
Which pin?
Signal, opposite the negative.
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 10:45 PM
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Talontsi96 - That is one sweet looking frame! - How was it to put together?

Mike
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Old Jan 20, 2010, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by nocontrol1 View Post
Duh! That's the bec I have- the dual voltage one. I set it to the 6 volt and got 5.96 under load. The motors still bump up. Do you think this is a flyability issue?
Futaba 9c on 50 mhz, PCM rx.
Rob D.
Definitely it affects the flyability. I would want to solve this problem before I put an expensive camera on it.

Both of these BEC I listed are dual voltage 5V/6V. Both are twitchy?
Then we need to investigate further.

I'm going to try a separate RX 3S lipo battery connected to the first BEC and lets see how it goes. Right now I'm powering it via my main lipo battery. I'm on 72 mhz JR9303 / Hitec RX.
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 12:38 AM
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I like to thank signguy and many contributors for the fantastic build tread. Want to try AP, so decided to build one. Notice that the Telebee gyro has been replaced with Turnugy gyro with the same part number.

I would like to know are they the same? Has anyone tried this Turnigy gyro?
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Old Jan 21, 2010, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by VinCopter View Post
I like to thank signguy and many contributors for the fantastic build tread. Want to try AP, so decided to build one. Notice that the Telebee gyro has been replaced with Turnugy gyro with the same part number.

I would like to know are they the same? Has anyone tried this Turnigy gyro?
I'm building one now with the turnigy gyros. They look exactly the same as the bees'. I'll probably get it in the air tomorrow, I hope!
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