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Old Jan 18, 2010, 06:44 PM
Flying with the eagles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bajas View Post
I just have some props to balance and some good weather!!!!..

This will be the most existing maiden EVER....hehehe..
I made it big, didnt cut the carbonrods from HC. 750mm long arms.

I just have one problem left.. The antenna. Where do i put it,????


THANX 1000000000 Signguy for inspirations and everybody else for all help... This is a fantastic thread...
Bajas, nice build there.

Just run the antenna along the edge of the top and bottom surface.

IMO that servo is not suitable. Use metal gear.

Your gyros are not really aligned with the arms. It is not straight.
Like Joshbb said, mounting gyro on the arm would subject it to more vibration.
No space to put on the center piece?
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 06:54 PM
Brushless
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etman - I have used the same servo and it will work just fine as long as there are no really hard landings - Don't ask how I know.....

Mike
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 06:54 PM
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you could also run the wires outside the arms, then go to home depot or a diy type store and pick up some florescent light lexan covers. These things are reasonably light, clear, strong, and when split length wise they curl up tightly like wire loom wrapping. I haven't tried it, but it should work. If I were going to hide wires I'd use aluminum, or woven carbon.
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 06:55 PM
Flying with the eagles
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Dihedral

Dihedral on short armed tricopter vs long armed tricopter.
I suppose a short armed tricopter would need dihedral more than a long armed one. It could make a small tricopter more stable.
Any comment on that one?
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 07:00 PM
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As stated earlier in this thread, the dihedral would help in a hover but a hindrance in forward flight. IMHO.
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 07:15 PM
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The reason I asked was if you wanted to make a small tri for indoors flying, a faster acting "brain" would be needed. Something that these simple cheap gyros can't do fast enough. And wouldn't dihedral make it more self stable and require less input from the gyros.
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by etman View Post
The reason I asked was if you wanted to make a small tri for indoors flying, a faster acting "brain" would be needed. Something that these simple cheap gyros can't do fast enough. And wouldn't dihedral make it more self stable and require less input from the gyros.
I just found a tricopter frame I made three years ago. It had a motor shaft to frame center length of 8.5". This had GWS pg-03 gyros on it !!
I remember it being a bear to fly, but it did. I've made telebee tri's down to 12"radius. It seems hard to find a small low kv motor, that would make a really small tricopter easier to tune.
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 07:28 PM
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May be the answer is a higher KV and a smaller pitch diameter on the blade?
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 07:31 PM
Flying with the eagles
etman's Avatar
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Originally Posted by signguy View Post
I just found a tricopter frame I made three years ago. It had a motor shaft to frame center length of 8.5". This had GWS pg-03 gyros on it !!
I remember it being a bear to fly, but it did. I've made telebee tri's down to 12"radius. It seems hard to find a small low kv motor, that would make a really small tricopter easier to tune.
Yes difficult to find a low kv motor that is light also.
How about GWS gear reduction drives?

One the other hand a 12" arm tri on cheap gyros may be small enough for large rooms.

This small 25g 1200 kv motor was used by one of the reviewers for a quadcopter on 2s lipos.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...r_Motor_1200kv
7x3.5/3S or 9x4.7/2S

Another one, a 1450 kv, 19 g motor, for 3D planes.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s..._19g_Outrunner
8040/2S or 7035/3S

Ok so on this thread will we have a monster tri and a tiny tri?
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cdi3d View Post
I agree with Bob - I have been using wood plugs through my HK CF arms to reduce the amount of splitting that occurs where you drill it - I have been using it on my SS for a longtime and unless it has the wood dowel gorilla glued in will split very easily - I am working on a new tri that uses these CF arms and would love to run the wires inside I just can't risk the integrity of the arm to hide a few wires - Just my 2cents

Mike
I can be pretty inventive... ... I have also successfully drilled 8 mm diameter carbon fiber tubes before without splitting them...Tubes are a lot harder to drill than square channels.. but I have not worked with the HK stuff so maybe I'll have a nasty surprise. I use a drill press and take my time and it usually works... the edges can be covered with CA as CA sticks to CF like nothing else... I'm open to other ideas though.... I like the home depot solution...
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 09:31 PM
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here is an easy way to hide your wires and speed controls. Just wrap the arms in florescent safety light bulb covers. These are made of Lexan, just cut them down the length, then they tend to curve tightly to attach to the arms without any mounts needed. I have not flown these, but the only problem I could see is overheating the speed controls. You could very easily cut ventilation holes in the tubing over the speed controls.
I did wrap them with vinyl before cutting them. You could paint the inside or outside with krylon "fusion" plastic paint. Rustoleum also makes a plastic specific paint that works great too.
Only adds a couple ounces..
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 10:51 PM
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Awesome, I'm sold. And so is everything in my shopping cart. Whats the lagtime usually getting these to the US? Bought some stuff to start working on the frame while I wait.


Quote:
Originally Posted by signguy View Post
DO IT!!

tricopter advantages

1 easier orientation
2 25% less likely to suffer motor failure
3 faster yaw rates
4 cheaper
5 looks COOL

quad advantages

1 more lift for the same motors
2 more options with MK or other boards

disadvantages

1 slow yaw rate ( from what I've seen )
2 have to have counter rotating props ( not many sizes available)
3 hard to see which way its going
4 $$$$$$$$$
5 in + config, you will see a motor in front of the camera

Tricopter disadvantages

1 Yaw servo ( not really a disadvantage, I've never had one fail in flight, and I use cheap servos)
2 slightly less efficient
3 less options for GPS, autopilot........ unless you are a real DIY'er

Thats how I see it. Some may blast me for it, so go ahead!
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Old Jan 18, 2010, 11:32 PM
It flew...nearly!
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Joined Apr 2006
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Question regarding the yaw servo. How much power/what size is sufficient? I have a standard Hitec HS425? but it really seems big and heavy for this purpose. Is the Hextronic 900 really sufficient? Suggestions, preferably available from HC?
Cheers,
matthew
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 12:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duck! View Post
Question regarding the yaw servo. How much power/what size is sufficient? I have a standard Hitec HS425? but it really seems big and heavy for this purpose. Is the Hextronic 900 really sufficient? Suggestions, preferably available from HC?
Cheers,
matthew
Good question, I'd like to know as well. What is the smallest metal gear servo that will work?
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Old Jan 19, 2010, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duck! View Post
Question regarding the yaw servo. How much power/what size is sufficient? I have a standard Hitec HS425? but it really seems big and heavy for this purpose. Is the Hextronic 900 really sufficient? Suggestions, preferably available from HC?
Cheers,
matthew
Depends on the motors used. If you are using the DT750 or something of the same size/power, a HXT 9g metal geared servo is not big enough. I use a full size futaba s-28 servo for my DT 750 machine. I do use a HXT 9g metal on my floater jet powered machine. 100 watts or less go with the HXT 9g any more you need a bigger servo. The full sized servo is not too large to put back there, you'll need it to balance out the camera!
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