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Old Apr 24, 2012, 09:00 PM
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babanan i cant see any linkages to the servo in the last photo. Is it a direct drive to the control horn?
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 12:12 AM
"I want more air time!"
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Originally Posted by BigJimNZ View Post
Maybe it's something on the face of the CMOS chip.
Being as you have had it open there might be something on it now ?
I also read something on the. " FPV videos for those that don't fly FPV " thread what can cause it but can't remember.
You know where

I'll have a look and see if I can find it.....
That's what I am worried that chip is ruined some how.

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Originally Posted by babanan View Post
Is it the same in both 720 and 1080 mode? I need to know before helping you out with this. I have changed a few lenses on the GoPro myself and your symptoms looks familiar.
I have it set for R3, and has been. I will test it in both 720 and 1080 in the days to come. I was thinking that a couple weeks ago I had gone to the 1080.
Here is a vid after I pulled and cleaned the lens and set it as sharp as I could.
GO PRO and SUNNEX LENS CLARITY FAILURE (1 min 30 sec)
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Stunt Double View Post
babanan i cant see any linkages to the servo in the last photo. Is it a direct drive to the control horn?
Hi. It is a direct drive yes. I took one of the servo horn attachments that came with the servo and glued/screwed it on to the lexan-plate.

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Old Apr 25, 2012, 01:52 AM
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EF, I used a q-tip with alcohol to clean a CMOS sensor on an fpv cam and it worked.

Banana, that looks very simular to Dadde's pivot at rcexplorer, although you may get more than the 80 degrees travel or whatever it is.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 03:13 AM
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Banana, that looks very simular to Dadde's pivot at rcexplorer, although you may get more than the 80 degrees travel or whatever it is.
Yes, the sollution is kind of inspired by his design. However, his design was perfect for mounting his kind of motor with a zip-tie. For "normal" motors with screwholes underneath his sollution wasnt optimal. So I made this twist.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 05:11 AM
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Might have to try this design for myself. More interested in using it for a camera roll gimbal than a yaw pivot. Im not so sure about the direct drive though, you would have to make sure that the servo horn is aligned perfectly to avoid binding but looks like you got it going ok. Have some leftover heli linkages that would work well.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Stunt Double View Post
Might have to try this design for myself. More interested in using it for a camera roll gimbal than a yaw pivot. Im not so sure about the direct drive though, you would have to make sure that the servo horn is aligned perfectly to avoid binding but looks like you got it going ok. Have some leftover heli linkages that would work well.
You are right about the servo horn alignment, thats the critical part when designing this yaw mechanism. But its not really that hard. I mounted everything up. looked where the carbonstick touched the lexan from inside and drilled a 2mm hole exatcly there. Then I put a 2 mm screw in the hole and threaded the servohorn on this screw while glueing. It worked out quite well. This screw goes into the servo now. I have also mounted a second screw to amke it even more solid. You can see this one in the picture.
You might also notice that the servo is taped to the boom on only the first half of the servobody, this gives the servo a tiny bit of slack, without affecting the rotating. This reduces the stress on the servohorn.
I will also note that with this constructing it is important to glue the stick to the middle section. Not only does this prevent the stick from falling out, more important is that it reduces the slack in the constrution, thus reducing the power from the props/motor on the servohorn.
Was this understandable? Its kind of difficult for me to explain in English.

It was important for me to keep it simple, and direct drive is simple. There are few parts and therefore less chance for something going wrong.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 08:35 AM
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First stable flight yesterday. Most of the moving around is either the wind or my sticks for a change. Thanks for your help everybody.
I ran out of props with all the crashing, so 1047s on the front and an 1147 on the tail. I still notice weaker to recover from right slide than left. Is this a normal prop rotation issue? Also, roll gyro maxes at about 50%, even just for hover. While the pitch and yaw in this video are at 2/3, and can be at 100% for hovering. Is that disparity normal?
First stable T-copter flight (4 min 7 sec)
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 01:10 PM
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Question about my tri. I've been flying for quite some time now but the trim of it is driving me crazy. I have to keep the right stick trimmed 100% to the right. If if is, its just about perfect.. maybe a little tilt still to the left, but nothing that i can't correct when flying. Why would it do that?

Front right motor is CCW, esc's are calibrated perfect.. Could it be a difference in the motor maybe? maybe my right motor just isn't up to par with the other two?

It would be nice to be able to give it that 1 extra click of trim! ;p
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by faheja View Post
Question about my tri. I've been flying for quite some time now but the trim of it is driving me crazy. I have to keep the right stick trimmed 100% to the right. If if is, its just about perfect.. maybe a little tilt still to the left, but nothing that i can't correct when flying. Why would it do that?

Front right motor is CCW, esc's are calibrated perfect.. Could it be a difference in the motor maybe? maybe my right motor just isn't up to par with the other two?

It would be nice to be able to give it that 1 extra click of trim! ;p
Sounds like a HK KK board ?
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 01:25 PM
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Sounds like a HK KK board ?
kk 5.5 black board
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by TheNiceGuy View Post
First stable flight yesterday. Most of the moving around is either the wind or my sticks for a change. Thanks for your help everybody.
I ran out of props with all the crashing, so 1047s on the front and an 1147 on the tail. I still notice weaker to recover from right slide than left. Is this a normal prop rotation issue? Also, roll gyro maxes at about 50%, even just for hover. While the pitch and yaw in this video are at 2/3, and can be at 100% for hovering. Is that disparity normal?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NyXeV...ature=youtu.be
Looking good
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by BigJimNZ View Post
Sounds like a HK KK board ?
You think it could be because the battery cables hang off the left side? Maybe the extra little weight on the side gives it that little drift?

Like i said, its not a big deal, just want to kinda know why it does it.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by faheja View Post
You think it could be because the battery cables hang off the left side? Maybe the extra little weight on the side gives it that little drift?

Like i said, its not a big deal, just want to kinda know why it does it.

CoG ok? Motors , Props, escs samebrand and free from binding etc? I'm using firmware 1.1 kk with all same rotation props. Gyro problems wouldnt cause a continual lean like that, you'd be getting jerking etc
Maybe your model's yaw and roll are not trimmed properly?
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by faheja View Post
You think it could be because the battery cables hang off the left side? Maybe the extra little weight on the side gives it that little drift?

Like i said, its not a big deal, just want to kinda know why it does it.
Probably not the cable dude. Swap your motors around from arm to arm and see if it follows.
Do the same with your esc's. What esc are you using ? What motors ?
Check you have no sue trims on your mix that you dont know about.is your radio calibrated at mid stick ?

Just some things to think about
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