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Old Sep 18, 2001, 03:08 PM
jsc
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Boise/Nampa Idaho
Joined May 2000
592 Posts
Transfer of prints to wood for cutout

Can someone please explain to me the method of transferring prints to wood for cutout. Thanks in advance.
Jeff
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Old Sep 18, 2001, 04:15 PM
Old Guy
Ron Cichowski's Avatar
Carver, MA USA
Joined Jun 2000
553 Posts
Some people photocopy the original plans (plain paper toner based system or laser printer). They lay the photocopy on the wood and wet out the paper with acetone. Acetone will dissolve the copy toner and leave an image on the wood.
Ron
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Old Sep 18, 2001, 04:43 PM
p471701
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jsc: i make a photocopy of the part, lay it on the wood and use a regular clothes iron on high heat. works pretty well.........gregg
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Old Sep 18, 2001, 05:02 PM
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Rotten Robbie's Avatar
Kent, Wa.
Joined Feb 2001
641 Posts
I use Tee Shirt transfer paper. It works just fine.

But don't screw up your wife's iorn. I messes up my daughters. I had to buy her a new one. Now she has a better iron, and I have my own.

Robbie
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Old Sep 19, 2001, 07:36 AM
Dave Segal
Philadelphia PA USA
Joined Jun 2001
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For a discussion of various methods of making patterns see "Building From Plans" at www.krc.org/index_info.htm

Dave Segal
Keystone RC Club
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Last edited by Dsegal; Sep 24, 2001 at 08:15 AM.
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Old Sep 19, 2001, 08:09 AM
Super Senior Member
Albuquerque, NM
Joined Feb 2000
3,396 Posts
Sheesh, that was in depth

I just photocopy the darned plan, cut out the part from the copy, 3M77 it to the wood, cut it out, and pull the copy paper off the wood. Works well for me!

Greg
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Old Sep 19, 2001, 08:10 AM
Old Desert Rat
Arizona Chuck's Avatar
Rimrock AZ. USA
Joined Mar 2000
1,113 Posts
I use a spray glue from Wal-Mart's craft section. Spray it on the back of the paper templates and let it dry a few min. Stick it on the wood and cut out, then peel the paper off.
You can scan the template into the computer and print out all the copys you want.
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Old Sep 19, 2001, 08:12 AM
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FANMAN's Avatar
Lilburn, Georgia, USA
Joined Nov 2000
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Easy remedy

I use 3m spray glue, lightly spray the back of each paper template, lay it on the wood, and cut following the lines, if you spray the paper just right, it normally peels right off the cut part!
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Old Sep 19, 2001, 08:12 AM
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Foxtrot's Avatar
Kodiak AK USA
Joined Jun 2000
609 Posts
I do the same as Slope Nut. Print. Roughly cut out the part in
question. I use stick glue instead of 3m77 though. Works great
for me.
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Old Sep 19, 2001, 12:30 PM
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Kevin Murray's Avatar
USA, NC, Greenville
Joined Dec 1999
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I use the photocopy and clothes iron method. Make your copies darker than you would sey for reading an article. The extra toner helps make the image on the wood darker.
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Old Sep 19, 2001, 10:00 PM
Registered User
Surrey B.C. Canada
Joined Nov 2000
227 Posts
I get my plans copyed by a "real" printing shop, so the plans don't get "streached" like a photocopier does. Then I use 3M Spraymount to stick the paper to the wood. It peels off a lot easier than 3M 77 contact spray.
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Old Sep 19, 2001, 10:13 PM
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Kevin Murray's Avatar
USA, NC, Greenville
Joined Dec 1999
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David - I have used the photocopier at the local library, placed a scale next to the image of the part being copied. As others noted above. Streaching wes not realy an issue.
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Old Sep 19, 2001, 11:24 PM
Quacker's Avatar
United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Jul 2001
2,826 Posts
Burn, baby, burn!

Hey, forget those old-fashioned methods! I use a 3.5 KW excimer laser which I CA'd to a precision, high-speed XY flatbed plotter. I feed in the plans in a binary format derived from Autodesk's DXF format. The 20 megabyte on-board buffer in the plotter holds the entire file with room to spare. (I usually keep several menus form local Chinese takeout kitchens in there as well). I then place the balsa sheet on the plotter bed which has been enhanced by replacing the bed material with that from an air-hockey table with the air pump inlet and outlet swapped. Then I turn on what is now the vacuum pump. This holds the Balsa sheet flat and tight against the bed. I slip on my safety goggles and run up the laser onto a water-cooled graphite target until it comes up to full power, then I fire up the plotter. In about 2.5 seconds an entire piece of 1/16" x 3" x 36" wood is reduced to a highly accurate collection of ribs, gussets and other assorted parts. The entire setup only cost me about $175,000.00 to slap together! Since I've already built 3 planes this way, I figure it only cost me just over $58,000.00 each. (Seems reasonable). One last note: if you try this, don't forget to vent the vacuum pump outside or the smell of burning balsa might be overwhelming or even set off your smoke detectors. I also highly recommend that you keep your cat out of the room during the entire operation.
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Old Sep 19, 2001, 11:36 PM
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USA, NC, Greenville
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Pulling our leg, right ? Quacker.
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Old Sep 20, 2001, 08:21 AM
Dave Segal
Philadelphia PA USA
Joined Jun 2001
547 Posts
Quote:
Originally posted by David Pentland
I get my plans copyed by a "real" printing shop, so the plans don't get "streached" like a photocopier does.
I can assure you that the rubber rollers in print machines can wear and age and the paper can slip producing quite distorted prints.

Dave Segal
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