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Old Dec 15, 2010, 12:18 PM
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Hey Scott,

good choice on the zlin, I'm sure you'll like it. I'm using a standard rx pack in mine.

Hope that helps,
Don
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Old Dec 16, 2010, 03:39 AM
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was that review filmed in rohnert park
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Old Jan 09, 2011, 02:54 PM
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United States, TX, El Paso
Joined Jan 2011
264 Posts
Built the Zlin 256 and have 3 12 minute flights, 4 touch an go's, and 5 landings on it. Substituted a Phoenix ice 75amp ESC w/5amp BEC and 33006s30c turnigy batt for the recommended.
These are my observations.

Comes with a lot of wrinkles, like all large great planes models. spent a couple of hours with an iron beating them down.

The 10mm Phillips screws supplied with the medium motor mount are too long for the rimfire .55 back plate. I countersunk the mount's holes and used the screws supplied with the motor.

Endpoint adjust and rates setup is important, small surface deflections will throw this model around greatly. CG and LATERAL balance is critical and will eatup a lot of digital trim if they are not spot on. I am still adding 1/4 ounce weights to the right wing tip.

After 5 landings, I have broken the right gear twice and these weren't hard landings. I may have gotten a defective wing. After the first break I opened up the wing and epoxy repaired the hardwood block dovetailed into the ribs. It had started to spit lengthwise. On the next landing that block completely separated and the gear folded back into the wing. I'm replacing the original gear with great planes Dural large .60. It's a matter of economics, a replacement wing set costs $100, one piece aluminum gear costs $18.

Overall, these are teething problems expected in any new plane. I still plan on flying it in IMAC basic in September. I bought it because it JUST fits in my subcompact car without disassembly.
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Old Jan 09, 2011, 10:41 PM
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USA, KY, Lexington
Joined Dec 2007
640 Posts
Thanks for the review. I have a GP Cherokee that I believe has the same landing gear configuration. My right gear hardwood block split too. Like you I opened up the wing and epoxied the crack. My block wasn't even glued to the stringer that it butted up against, only the rib. I haven't had any issues since regluing it but I've abandoned the idea of taking off / landing from grass.

Even on a paved runway the landing gear wires make some weird resonating sound. I try to spend as little time possible on the ground with my Cherokee.
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 06:55 PM
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Buffalo TX
Joined Jan 2011
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Just got my GP Z 526A for Christmas. Rudder, Wings and Tail surfaces have unshrinkable" bubbled covering!! BAD!! Fuse is OK!! Using new Ultracoat to replace!
Fuel tank location is impossibly high. Bottom of tank is above the needle valve. Huh!! I think this is an Electric plane design only. Tank siphons empty thru the carb. Can you say, Inverted lean out??? I plan to put the tank in the fuse and use a Perry pump. Tank siphons thru pump it's so high, in the factory location.
Manual warns to re-do CA on the hinges. If they didn't do the job right why do it at all. CA won't wick into the previous CA. Just makes them more brittle. It's 1 time deal.
Customer support wants me to ship it back at my expense. I just paid the freight to get it and 2X freight is 1/2 the price of this sloppy built bird. My photos are "unacceptable" though never reviewed.
Great Planes...Your product and customer service are unacceptable!! You won't even answer my e mail after my first phone call.
This plane would make a pretty good kit, since it needs so much re work, why not just put the parts in a box and sell it for 1/2 price.
Not an ARF an ARGH. (giveup & hurl) Tower Hobbies ARF Kaos II is more presentable and functional.
Building since 1955.
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Old Jan 18, 2011, 11:12 PM
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Buffalo TX
Joined Jan 2011
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Zlin 526 is electric only

Bought this based on a review in Fly RC.
Covering is Monocoat and poorly applied. No skrink left and plenty blisters.
If you plan on using glow look at the tank location and the needle valve location. Bottom of tank is above the needle. Siphons the tank dry just sitting.
Look at all the ventilation holes in the mount box. Where is the oil residue going to end up. Inside the fuse. This was designed to cool the E Bats.
I an going to epoxy ply over the holes and beef up the thin ply just because it's too thin for an IC engine in my opinion. I generally fly 1 plane for several years.
Tank is going to be moved to over the wing and a pump will feed the motor.
This is 1 sorry bit of engineering for glow operation.
Prolly fine for electric if you can shrink the bubbles out or don't care.
Not worth the price with the issues that need fixed.
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Old Feb 06, 2011, 03:45 PM
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Joined Dec 2006
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The Wrinkled Zlin

Greetings
I just bought a Zlin-526 January 2011 , my covering is the worst I have every seen, Just like RCforever, I have tried a shrink it with sock iron and a non sock iron per instructions for arf's and a heat gun when the first two attempts failed . The wrinkles are not removable you can only shrink them. I have 3 other arfs from Great planes all a few wrinks that came out easy. It appears that Great planes never fixes problems with there arfs, this plane has been on the market for over a year with the same problem. I though it would have been fixed, but my plane covering is just as bad as Rcforever a year later.
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 09:29 AM
Pants Up, Don't Loot!
Park_Flyer's Avatar
United States, VA, Virginia Beach
Joined Jun 2005
1,769 Posts
Zlin - Tips

I purchased this model back in December when it went on sale. Mine was quite wrinkled and I worked on a few parts back then planning to eventually get to assembling it - the rudder was the worst. Well, "eventually" finally came this week

Amazingly when I opened the box, the wrinkling did not seem as bad - maybe everything kind of normalized over the months of sitting in my garage. Nevertheless, I did have to work on it a couple of hours to get everything smoothed. One tip that I can offer for the covering is to use the sun. I set everything out on my toasty back deck - it seemed to relax the covering a bit and I was able to smooth it using an iron, heat gun, and a mitten.

As was discussed in the article, the cowl is a tight fit. To help that out, I carefully applied heat to the inside of the cowl and then stretched it over a large PVC pipe - I did this several times until I got a good fit. I also heated the bottom corners and bent them outward slightly. None of the heating deformed the cowl whatsoever. I also left the cowl in place on the fuselage for several days as I worked on the rest of the assembly over several nights.

So far, the rest of the build has been straightforward. Hope these tips help someone else out.
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Old Jul 12, 2011, 09:33 PM
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San Diego
Joined Jul 2002
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Read through this thread and no mention of the prop used....
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Old Jul 12, 2011, 09:39 PM
Pants Up, Don't Loot!
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United States, VA, Virginia Beach
Joined Jun 2005
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APC 13x10E is what is recommended on the Tower product page.
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 02:24 PM
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Zlin

Very good review. Spectacular pictures. I was considering 3 planes, but now I think I will defitelly get the Zlin. I have been asking the question around but no one has answered. Is an OS75 AX too big for this bird?
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 03:48 PM
Lipo abuser ... smoke on!
gp125racer's Avatar
Joined Feb 2005
1,917 Posts
Hey Mark,

Thanks for the comments! I wosh I could help but I'm just not familiar with gas engines. Have you tried to contact Great Planes? They might have an answer for you.

Don
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Old Jul 23, 2013, 11:33 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Ilford
Joined Jun 2008
13 Posts
Hi All,
Just wondering after that last post some time ago, if anyone has recently purchased a Great Planes Zlin and if the standard of covering has improved. Looks a nice model and I am tempted to get one and go electric.
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